Easy Peasy Farmers’ Market Food

by Mary Bailey

This collection of recipes is effortless, quick and always tasty. They rely on what’s freshest at the markets for minimal prep and maximum enjoyment.

checkerboard watermelon feta salad

The melon and feta form a checkerboard of sweet/salty flavour — the look inspired by a photo in Bon Appetit magazine. Think it’s not worth the time? Grab a child or an adult who likes to be precise and hand them a set of tongs to carefully place the squares of watermelon and feta on the plate.

1 ripe watermlon
1 block of Bulgarian feta or ricotta salata (approx. 4x4x5)

1-2 sprig thyme

2 T fruity extra virgin olive oil

squeeze ½ lime

2-3 sprigs flat leaf parsley, chopped

sea salt and freshly-cracked black pepper

Carefully cut the watermelon and the feta into same-sized squares (about . of an inch). Arrange on a plate, alternating watermelon and feta (you could also incorporate another colour of melon if desired).

Whisk dressing and drizzle over right before serving. This salad is best made right before serving as the watermelon bleeds a bit, washing the bright pink colour out of the top of the fruit. If made ahead of time, wrap plastic wrap tightly, with a layer of wrap touching the surface. Bring to cool room temperature before serving and salt at the last minute.

Serves 6-8.

summer tomato salad

Buy the ripest, prettiest tomatoes you can find at the farmers market, in various sizes and colours. Quarter or slice them attractively on a plate or in a bowl and slather them with this Green Goddess dressing. If this is too complicated, drizzle a very good olive oil over, pass the sea salt and pepper grinder around the tomatoes and toss on fresh basil. Tip for best tasting tomatoes? Never ever put them in the fridge.

green goddess dressing

1 egg yolk
1 T water
1 c organic canola, or extra virgin olive oil
1 c picked watercress or chervil
1-2 leaves fresh basil, chopped
1 t leaves fresh tarragon, chopped
2 chives, finely cut
1 c flat leaf parsley, chopped
1 c curly parsley, chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled and chopped
1½ t nam pla (fish sauce)
sea salt and freshly-cracked pepper
juice of ½ fresh-squeezed lemon (or to taste, chervil is lemony as well)

Make a mayonnaise: whisk egg yolk with water, then slowly add a few drops of oil at a time, whisking constantly to help it emulsify. Use about half the oil. Put the herbs, garlic and fish sauce into a food processor with the remaining oil and process until smooth. Whisk herb mixture into mayonnaise thoroughly. Season and add lemon juice to taste. If not using immediately, hold off on the juice as the acid tends to bleach the colour. Use within two days and thin with water if necessary.

chimichurri

There’s nothing subtle about chimichurri. The bold and brash flavours compliment burgers or steaks equally. The correct texture should be slightly oily with noticeable vinegar and heat.

1 c fresh flat leafed parsley, packed
½ c fresh cilantro, packed
1 bird (or Thai) chile, chopped fine, seeds removed (to taste, that’s where the heat is)
1½ t fresh thyme leaves, chopped fine
1/3 c red wine vinegar
2 cloves garlic, peeled (to taste)
½ medium red onion, chopped fine
½ c canola or extra virgin olive oil
sea salt and freshly-cracked black pepper

Cover chopped onions in cold water with a bit of salt. Soak for 5 minutes then drain and proceed.

Chop parsley and cilantro by hand*, mix in thyme and chile, then put all ingredients into a food processor bowl. Pulse until pur.ed. Taste for seasoning and adjust heat and salt if necessary.

Puree all ingredients in processor. Transfer to bowl. Flavours are best if the sauce has some time to develop. Serve at room temperature. Makes enough condiment for 6-8 people.

* Parsley, cilantro and basil taste better if hand chopped first. Why? Probably something to do with bruising leaves. For example, why you tear lettuce, not cut it.

tofu in brad’s barbecue rub*

Research chef Brad Smoliak makes an amazing rub for fish, chicken, beef, whatever. Here’s two ways to use it.

1 block firm or extra-firm tofu**
Brad’s Barbecue Rub
canola oil

Press the tofu between paper towels for about 10 minutes to firm, then cut into medium-sized squares or rectangles. Brush with oil, and using tongs, dip into the rub coating the tofu on every side.

Grill on a medium barbecue until each side is crispy. Serves 6-8.

** Buy fresh tofu and other soybean products at Ying Fat Foods, 10512 98 Street.

pork in brad’s barbecue rub

1 pork tenderloin (1. lb), or pork chops or pork shoulder
Brad’s Barbecue Rub

Cover meat with the rub and let rest for at least 30 minutes for tenderloin, and to up to one day for shoulder.

Preheat barbecue to medium high. Grill the pork until internal temperature is 140.F, about 15 to 18 minutes. Let rest for 5 minutes before slicing. Serves 4-10 depending on cut.

* Find Brad’s Barbecue Rub at Sobeys Nottingham and Lakeland Sobeys, Sherwood Park.

miso-marinated sable fish (black cod)

The earthy, slightly sweet miso flavour is a winner paired with silky-textured black cod. Ocean Odyssey at The City Market sells this sustainable Pacific ocean fish as does Fin’s Seafood in Sherwood Park.

½ c sake (or white wine)
½ c mirin
1 c miso paste*
1 green onion, sliced thin
4 black cod fillets
toasted sesame seeds for garnish, optional radish sliced thin for garnish, optional

In a medium saucepan, bring sake and mirin to a boil. Remove from heat, add miso and green onion and stir until dissolved. Remove from the heat and let cool completely. Put the fish in a ceramic or glass dish and pour over cooled marinade, cover with plastic and refrigerate for a minimum of four hours up to overnight.

Preheat barbecue to medium. Place fish directly on the grill or on a barbecue fish pan (Black cod is a sturdy fish but the pan is insurance against fall through or breakage.) Cook for about ten minutes, just until the fish is becoming opaque. Err on underdone as it will keep cooking after being removed from the heat. Toss radishes and sesame seeds over, and serve immediately.

Serves 4.

grilled b.c. peaches

The simplest dessert of all. Cut and pit 4 large ripe peaches. Brush lemon or lime juice on the cut side. Place peaches cut side down on the grill and cook until the peaches are charred and softened, about 6 minutes. Serve with a Moscato d’Alba or Vin Santo, or ice cream if desired. Serves 4-8. Don’t we wait all year for the trucks to roll in with B.C cherries? After you get mildly bored of eating them whole, make syrup, ice cream or dip in a decadent mascarpone cream.

cherries in mascarpone cream

Best eaten outdoors so you can have a pit spitting contest.

1 lg pkg ripe B.C. cherries
2 T milk or half and half
1 tub mascarpone (buy the Italian, has better flavour and texture)
½ c star anise honey, warmed (If you can’t find honey flavoured with star anise, try anise or fennel flavoured.)

Add warmed honey and milk to cheese and whip until well-blended and the cheese is quite soft. To serve: Dip cherries into the honey mascarpone mixture and eat.

cherry syrup

Mix this syrup with lime Perrier, sparkling wine or espresso vodka on the rocks for a refreshing drink. It also makes an amazing Manhattan.

5 c fresh B.C. cherries, pitted (frozen or jarred sour cherries can work well, the flavour will be slightly different)
½ c sugar
1 c water
pinch salt
cinnamon stick
1 t vanilla (optional)

Muddle cherries in a saucepan to release juices. Pour in boiling water, salt and cinnamon stick and let steep for about ½ hour. Place the saucepan over medium-low heat. Pour in another . c boiling water, take out cinnamon stick and stir until reduced slightly, about 10 minutes. Strain thoroughly, using a chinois or a fine mesh, pressing gently on the solids. Discard solids. Makes about one cup syrup. Cool, then chill, covered.

cherry chocolate ice cream

Adapted from Cuisinart recipe book. If you have a different machine follow the manufacturers directions.

4 c ripe B.C. cherries, pitted
1½ c sugar, divided
2½ c heavy cream
1½ c whole milk
4 egg yolks
1 t kirsch
2 t freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 t natural almond extract
½ c best quality dark or milk chocolate, shaved

In a small bowl, combine the cherries with ½ cup of the sugar. Stir gently and allow fruit to macerate for 2 hours. Strain cherries and reserve juice. Mash, or purée half the cherries reserving the rest. Stir together the cream, milk, remaining sugar and cherry juice in a large saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a simmer, then remove from heat. Place the egg yolks into a large bowl, whisk in hot cream mixture, about 2 tablespoons at a time, until you have added about 2 cups of cream to egg. Whisk the hot yolks mixture into the saucepan of hot cream, then cook on low, stirring constantly, until the mixture reaches 170.F (75.C) and is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Pour the mixture into a large bowl, cover and refrigerate until cold, 4-6 hours.

Add the mashed cherries, kirsch and lemon juice to the cold custard. Turn ice cream machine on; pour the mixture into the ice cream maker, and let mix until thickened, about 20 to 25 minutes. Five minutes before mixing is completed, add the reserved cherries and chocolate shavings, and mix in. The ice cream will have a soft, creamy texture. If a firmer consistency is desired, transfer the ice cream to an airtight container and place in freezer for about 2 hours. Remove from freezer about 15 minutes before serving.