Splash of water, no rocks

The wonders of river cruising in Bordeaux

by Alison Phillips

Travel pro Alison Phillip
Travel pro Alison Phillip

After all, rivers crisscross the entire continent, and historically were the primary way to get around. The long ships used are fabulous—modern, quiet and stable, offering both convenience and intimate luxury. Unlike large ocean cruise ships, these riverboats hold less than 200 guests and often up to about 100 crew. Another welcome departure from ocean cruising; you can safely leave tiaras and ball gowns at home. Dressing up for evening meals means long pants and collared shirts for men and smart casual attire for women, a boon when airlines are charging for extra luggage these days.

My experience aboard the Viking Forseti on the Chateaux, Rivers & Wine Bordeaux cruise was amazing. Built and launched early in 2014, the state of the art Forseti was extremely comfortable, with well thought-out design throughout. In addition to the spacious dining room, there was also a beautiful bar/piano lounge and an outdoor deck area where we chose to enjoy many an afternoon in the sunshine with a glass of wine or under the stars with a Cognac. The top deck had a full walking track around the perimeter and comfortable chaise lounges to relax in or out of the sun. Growing in raised beds down the centre of the ship was a kitchen garden where the chef gathered fresh herbs daily.

The food was regional, healthy and well-portioned with plenty of fresh fruits and vegetables sourced from local markets, along with fresh fish, poultry and meats. Delicious bakery items and desserts are not to be missed.

Service is exceptional. The international team of room stewards, waiters, tour guides, kitchen and boat crew were wonderful. Friendly and always helpful, they sought out ways to ensure our cruise was smooth sailing in every way. During the week aboard, you can choose to do as much or as little as you like. We went on many of the included shore excursions, wine tours and tasting in Pauillac, dinner in a Chateaux in Margaux, walks through the Citadel and old town of Blaye, and market tour with the chef in Bordeaux. We also arranged a private tour for our group of 10 to Cognac where we were treated to a tour of the ancient cellars of Remy Martin with a delicious tasting.

A day in the Perigord region with a truffle expert was incredible. Eduard, accompanied by his truffle hunting dog, demonstrated the hunt, then talked truffles, how they form and where. This was followed by a fantastic lunch at his centuries-old farmhouse where every one of the five courses prepared by his wife contained truffles. A memorable day indeed.

Another fascinating day was spent in Saint Emilion, a UNESCO World heritage site—such a delightful cobblestoned village filled with fascinating wine shops, boutiques and restaurants. We wandered happily for hours, before settling on an open-air restaurant in the main square for a tasty lunch, with local wine of course!

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As Grant and I had travelled through the Loire Valley prior to arriving in Bordeaux, we treated our small group to a Loire wine tasting on board the ship on the sun deck one afternoon. The crew were most accommodating, preparing everything we needed for the tasting including some light snacks.

Everyone seems to be promoting the wonders of European river cruising. The images show happy couples smiling, visiting castles and strolling through cobblestone streets or sipping wine in vineyards, generally living la vida loca. So, if you’ve been looking longingly at the Viking Cruise commercials during Masterpiece Theatre, seriously consider it for your next holiday. We’ve been asked to host another European cruise in 2017 on the Duoro in Portugal or perhaps southern France, so consider coming aboard with us! Wherever it sails, you can be assured that it will be one of the best vacations you’ve ever had.

Travel pro Alison Phillips, co-owner of Aligra Wine & Spirits, occasionally rocks the boat but never gets seasick on a river.