On the Wine Road to Piceno

by Mary Bailey

The distinctive shape of Pecorino
The distinctive shape of Pecorino

“Are you not going to eat those?” asks Andrea Bianco, export manager for Azienda Velenosi, gesturing at the untouched plate of olives Ascolani. “The owner’s grandmother made those, and when a nonna makes something you better eat it,” he says, laughing.

It’s day four of an intensive wine trip in Piceno and we have been offered the signature dish of the region, hearty stuffed and fried olives, at every stop.

We eye them longingly — it’s not that we don’t want to, but we’ve learned that once we start it’ll be a feeding frenzy until the last crumb of crispy, deep-fried deliciousness is gone. We’re trying to maintain some sort of journalistic objectivity here. Can we hang on, until, at least, we’re most of the way through the wine tasting? Because, another thing we’ve learned is that olives Ascolani go really well with vini Piceno. What, exactly, is vini Piceno? The wines of Ancona, Macerata and Ascoli Piceno province in southeast Le Marche, an Italian region bordering the Adriatic. Or, you could say east of Tuscany, on the other side of Umbria.

From left Adriano Lorenzi (director, Collevite), Giovanni Vagnoni (Le Caniette, VP Consorzio Vini Piceni), Angelica D’Andrea, and Luigi Massa (Consorzio Vini Piceni)
From left Adriano Lorenzi (director, Collevite), Giovanni Vagnoni (Le Caniette, VP Consorzio Vini Piceni), Angelica D’Andrea, and Luigi Massa (Consorzio Vini Piceni)

Still whites and reds are made, along with dessert wines from dried grapes (like Tuscany’s vin santo) and sparkling wine. The family-owned wineries are not huge, ranging in size from 15 to about 100 hectares, a reminder of the smallholdings tradition of farming in Le Marche. The topography is hilly, with the Sibillini Mountains on one side and the Adriatic sea on the other. Hot summer days are cooled by ocean breezes, lessening humidity, and keeping the acidity in the grapes fresh.

Verdicchio is the best-known white of the region (and possibly, of Italy) especially wines made further north near Jesi. However, in Piceno we’re in Passerina and Pecorino country. The two are often blended with Trebbiano in a light and lively wine called Falerio. Passerina, an ancient grape (biancame) of the region, can be a delicious drink, especially as an elegant sparkling wine.

My money is on Pecorino, which makes full-bodied, beautifully aromatic wine. The grape variety had all but disappeared in the region until Guido Cocci Grifoni got wind of some abandoned vines near the Tronto River in 1982. These vines were known for their reluctance to bear much fruit and a proclivity to grow on hillsides among the grazing sheep. Trials were started, and the long road to acceptance began. By 1992 Pecorino was awarded IGT status, then Pecorino DOC in 2001, Pecorino Offida was awarded DOCG with 2010 vintage.

Marilena Cocci Grifoni (centre) and her two daughters Marta Capriotti (left), and Camilla Capriotti
Marilena Cocci Grifoni (centre) and her two daughters Marta Capriotti (left), and Camilla Capriotti

Tenuta Cocci Griffoni 50 hectares near Ripatransone and Offida The view from the terrace at Cocci Grifoni is drop dead breathtaking in a land where no view is a slouch. We gaze over hill and dale covered in orderly vines, with a smattering of crops, forest, vines and the occasional solar panel array toward the medieval town of Riptransone perched on an outcropping. We are greeted by a whirlwind of energy, good will, and graciousness in the form of Guido’s daughters Marilena and Paola who now operate the farm and winery. Making lunch is Mrs. Cocci Grifoni. Guido died earlier this year.

With lasagna bianca and grilled vegetables we taste a range of Cocci Griffoni wines including two vintages of Colle Vecchio Pecorino Offida DOC. They are subtle and elegant, beautifully balanced, with spicy floral aromas of freesia and ginger. I do not want to take my nose out of the glass.

Paola Cocci Grifoni, Marilena’s sister — both are daughters of Guido Cocci Grifoni who rediscovered the Pecorino grape
Paola Cocci Grifoni, Marilena’s sister — both are daughters of Guido Cocci Grifoni who rediscovered the Pecorino grape

We are dragged away from our contemplation of wine and landscape to look at Pecorino in the vineyard. While Mrs. Cocci Grifoni tidies shoots that have had the temerity to wander, enologist/ daughter Paola tells us about dirt and grapes, weather and harvest, favoured topics of conversation in every vineyard.

Azienda Le Caniette 15 hectares near Ripatransone Le Caniette takes a slightly different approach to Pecorino, aging it in barrique for two years, adding an extra dimension and a certain gravitas to the wine. Giovanni and Luigi Vagnoni now operate the organic farm first planted in vines by their grandfather. Before that, their great grandfather Raphael raised white bulls — the iconic white bull of the Marche, which has been adopted as the symbol of the Piceno wine group. The new addition to the winery is a lovely bit of modernist architecture, open, airy, facing the sea with the barrel room built partially underground for natural cooling. Giovanni spent quite a bit of time with us (he’s vp of the consortium) and I’d like to think Le Caniette wines reflect his personality; smart, with an impish sense of humour and a big heart. Highlights: Morellone Rosso Piceno DOC, Iosonogaia Non Sono Lucrezia Offida Pecorino DOC.

The red grape of Piceno is Montepulciano, often blended with Sangiovese. International varieties Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot are also grown, even some Pinot Noir and Petit Verdot. Mouth-filling generosity, coupled with firm tannins and, sometimes, high alcohol levels is the signature of Montepulciano in Piceno. Better vineyard management and clonal selection (this grape can be quite vigourous) has tamed the most egregious rusticity without stripping personality. Some, such as Le Caniette, display a pronounced and attractive minerality as well.

Azienda Collevite 200 hectares near Monsampolo del Tronto, Ripatransone, and Spinetoli Collevite was created in 2008 by a group of local wine producers interested in high quality wine production. They make wine under three labels; Collevite, Zeroquindici and Villa Piatti which is small production, barrique aged wine, and are making some experiments with artisan beers — Bionda Passerina and Rosso Rosato. Highlights: Collevite Rosato, Villa Piatti Pecorino, Marche Rosse (Montepulciano, Cab, Merlot blend)

A fresco in Santa Maria della Rocca abbey, Offida
A fresco in Santa Maria della Rocca abbey, Offida

Cui Cui 120 hectares near Offida, Acquaviva Picena, Castorano Brothers Massimo and Walter Bartolomei carry on the work started by their parents in 1970. As well as very good wine of character, Cui Cui (choo choo), like other Piceno producers such as D’Angelis, make a beautiful olive oil. Highlights: Oppidum Marche IGT, (100 per cent Montepulciano), Esperanto Offida Rosso DOC, Lacemakers Brut.

La Cantina dei Colli Ripani 750 hectares near Ripatransone, Montefiore, Montalto delle Marche, Offida, Cossignano, Cupramarittima Colli Ripani is the exception to the general perception that co-ops can only make average quality wine. Over 450 farmers contribute grapes to a spotless modern facility near Montefiore. Lead winemaker is Marco Pignotti. A wise wine person once said; “anybody can make good wine when they have the best grapes and unlimited budget, the real key is the entry level.”

Simone Lanciotti, enologist at Vinicola Carassanese / Az.Montevarmine
Simone Lanciotti, enologist at Vinicola Carassanese / Az.Montevarmine

This holds true for this co-op. The cheap and cheerful, colourfullylabelled Colli Ripani wines are tasty and great value. Top end Pharus highlights: Brezzolino Falerio dei Collio Ascolani DOC, Leo Ripanus Offida Rosso DOC

Vinicola Carassanese/Montevarmine 50 hectares near Carassai, and Azienda Domodimonti 45 hectares near Montefiore Both of these wineries had spectacular settings near the sea and holiday apartments for rent. Montevarmine is owned by the Polini family. They grow Montepulciano, Sangiovese, Merlot, Cab Sauv, Passerina, Pecorino and Chardonnay. Enologist and son-in-law Simone Lanicotti led us through a technical tasting under the loggia. Highlights: Boffo Rosso Piceno DOC Offida Passerina.

The small dog of Simone, named Trilly.
The small dog of Simone, named Trilly.