the dish: covid stories from the people who feed us
by Mary Bailey
Covid-19 has been catastrophic for hospitality businesses. Many chose to close in early March, before anyone deemed it necessary. It was stepping into terra incognita, who knew what was going to happen or how long it was going to last? One thing we know for sure now, is that the community has attacked the situation with vigour and imagination.
What we all love about independent restaurants is that they are—just that—independent, different from each other, each a creative outlet for their chefs and owners. And they all love to feed people. In a remarkably short time, many have pivoted to a new way of cooking for their customers—take-out. Each operator has chosen a different approach.
“We closed at first, as we didn’t know yet what would be best for our customers,” says Patrick Saurette of The Marc. “We made a plan.” And what a plan it is. Patrick’s small team has managed to put The Marc’s characteristic French bistro deliciousness and warm hospitality into a bag and deliver it to your car. Yes, frites, at home. Maybe they are not quite so crispy and delicious as they could be, but they are still pretty darn good.
The Corso 32 group took a few days to work out what was the best way to offer the flavours of the three restaurants. They hit on the idea of pasta kits, frozen sauces and some greatest hits from the restos such as Corso 32’s whipped ricotta. “We didn’t want to have restaurant prices, but people still want something special,” says chef Daniel Costa. “It’s about cooking at home and having a fun experience with their kids, drawing on the boxes.”
XIX is keeping it interesting with special menus (Chinese, tacos, burgers) on different days of the week while also hewing closely to the big and bold flavours of the regular menu. As is Smokey Bear, offering guest-chef gigs within their Pedro’s Taco offerings. RGE RD offers unusual (for them) items—pot pies, empanadas, shepherd’s pie, meatloaf—which have been a big hit with their customers.
“We closed for almost three weeks, and when we decided to open for pick-up we wondered if we would have traction. We’re not a take-out kind of restaurant. Would the response be positive?” says chef Rosario Caputo, Cibo Bistro. “It’s been overwhelmingly positive. I’m talking with guests who have been dining with us for nine years. We started as a way to get me out of the house and make some tasty food, but now we know our customer needs us—not doing it is not an option.”
Some have chosen to close temporarily and use their skills to help others. “We talk about opening for take-out every week,” says chef Ryan Hotchkiss, Bündok. “Is it worth it? I have two little ones at home. We have a social responsibility; I want to protect my family and my staff.
We decided to find surpluses in the food system within our network of farmers and make meals to give away. Our cooks Danny Rienich and Tyler Biollo came up with the idea. We make about 100-150 meals a week.” Note: May 1 Bündok started curbside take-out with a with a dinner, available on Friday and Saturdays.
Filistix immediately pivoted to pick-up and delivery with owner Ariel Rosario doing most of the deliveries himself. “What we discovered is that people who wouldn’t come downtown to eat with us—people at home in the suburbs with kids—are now ordering from us regularly,” says Ariel. “It also showed us the fundamental problem with delivery services. The big players are always on top. We never showed up in the top ten choices, nor as a choice outside of a certain radius. It wasn’t worth the fees.
“We decided to establish our own. It was a pretty straightforward transition to develop a delivery website via our Clover system,” says Ariel. “What this time has shown us is that, when we are back to normal with dining rooms open and full staffing, delivery will remain a viable way to get our food to people. It will be the new normal.”
“This is like starting a new business,” says Rob Filipchuk, Glass Monkey. “We are thinking hard about what our guests want. We’re discovering they want one stop—pick-up dinner for tonight; soup for tomorrow; a diy kit for two days from now and something to pop in the freezer. I just carved up some rib-eyes for grill-at-home kits; 40-day aged steaks.
“We have to be creative; we may be doing business like this for months and we want to come out the other side stronger than ever. We want to get people back to work. That’s the next challenge.”
However restaurateurs have pivoted or transformed their businesses, they have made huge sacrifices. At best, receipts are maybe 50 per cent of what they were pre-Covid. That’s probably a generous estimate. It’s not a recipe for long term success. But owners are making do, being creative in their offerings, refining delivery and take-out systems all the while practicing food and Covid-19 safety. It’s a tall order.
Local restaurants are a vital part of our community and contribute much to our culture and the economy. Kris Harvey and Katy Ingraham have marshalled the power of the group to create The Edmonton Independent Hospitality Group. They are asking for support for measures such as rent and property tax forgiveness. “Our priority is people’s lives,” says Kris Harvey, Chvrch of John, “we can’t operate, we are flattening the curve. Oil and gas employs 140,000 people, hospitality is not far behind with 132,000. We have obligations and investments in this community as employees and landlords.”
Our restaurant community makes me so proud. I am in awe of their creativity, their resourcefulness and especially their resilience. “We have always been jugglers,” says Rob Filipchuk. “We deal with crap very day—people not showing up; power going off in the middle of a busy shift; food deliveries gone wrong. Restaurateurs are the best problem solvers.”
“As terrible as this is, it’s bringing out the beauty and the compassion of the community,” says Daniel Costa.
It’s tough times for hospitality. Whatever the new normal is, let’s not forget local restaurants and watering holes. We need them as much as they need us.