by Mary Bailey
The refreshing waft of citrus aromas; the tangy hit on the tongue. We want this in the winter, especially after the rich and heavy food of the holidays. Lucky for us, this is when the stores flood with in-season (in California and Texas at least) Navels, Cara Cara, Texas Ruby Reds, Meyer lemons and, if we’re lucky, Mexican limes. A lemon dressing for bitter greens, a squeeze of lime to wake up a bland dish—we are accustomed to citrus playing the supporting role. These recipes showcase main character energy.
Fennel Salad with Orange and Black Olives
An easy and delicious winter salad. Omit the olives if you don’t like them, but they do provide a deliciously salty tang.
| 1 med | fennel bulbi |
| 1 sm | orange |
| 1 T | lemon juice |
| ½ c | black olives, pitted and halved |
| 4 T | extra virgin olive oil (the best you have) |
| arugula or mixed greens (escarole is nice here) | |
| large flake salt and fresh-cracked black pepper |
Slice fennel into approx. ¼-inch slices, except for the woody core. Save some fronds for garnish and place in a bowl. Place the orange in a shallow dish (to catch the drips) and use a knife to slice off the skin, trim all the pith as well. Slice into approx ¼-inch slices and reserve. Mix the reserved orange juice, lemon juice and olive oil, season lightly and pour half over the fennel. Toss with tongs to mix.
Place washed greens on a large platter or shallow bowl. Follow with the fennel slices, orange slices and olives. Garnish with fennel fronds and drizzle the rest of the dressing over. Sprinkle some large flake salt, like Maldon, and a few cracks of pepper if desired.
Serves 4-6.
Vermicelli Salad with Wild Shrimp and Grapefruit
This aromatic salad is a tonic on a dreary day. Find frozen wild Argentine shrimp at Save-On or other grocery stores.
| 200 g | thin rice noodle (vermicelli) |
| 12 | wild Argentine shrimp |
| 1 | bay leaf |
| 1 | pink grapefruit |
| 3 | green onion, thinly sliced |
| handful | mint leaves, rough chopped |
| handful | coriander leaves, rough chopped |
Soak the vermicelli in hot water for about 10 minutes to soften. Drain, then rinse under cold running water.
Reserve and allow to drain thoroughly.
Poach shrimp with the bay leaf for about 5 minutes until they are opaque. Stop the cooking with an ice bath, or in very cold water. Reserve in the fridge.
Slice the ends off the grapefruit and stand on a plate or shallow dish (to catch the juice). Use a knife to remove the skin and the pith. Slice down between the segments to separate them, and trim off any pith left behind. Reserve juice for the dressing and the segments for the salad.
Dressing
| 12 | cherry tomatoes, halved |
| 1 t | fish sauce |
| juice of 1 lime | |
| 2 t | brown sugar |
| 1 lg | red chile, ½ diced, ½ sliced |
| ½ | English cucumber, peeled and thinly sliced |
| 1 med | carrot, julienned or ribboned |
Lightly squash the cherry tomatoes and whisk in the fish sauce, grapefruit juice, lime juice, sugar and diced chilli. Taste and adjust, if necessary, with more juice or fish sauce.
Toss the noodles in the dressing, then add everything else, except the sliced chile. Divide the noodle salad between plates and top with the sliced chile.
Serves 4 as a starter, 2 as a main course.
Carrot Salad with Lime and Cranberry
This lively salad is adapted from a recipe in Pucker, the wonderful citrus-themed cookbook by Calgarian Gwendolyn Richards.
| 3-4 smallish | carrots |
| ¼ c | pistachios or pine nuts |
| ¼ c | dried cranberries |
| 2 t | lime juice (about 1 small lime) |
| ½ t | sugar |
| kosher salt and fresh cracked black pepper | |
| 3 t | extra virgin olive oil |
Shave the carrots in ribbons using a peeler. Mix the carrots, nuts and cranberries together in a bowl. Whisk the dressing ingredients together (or shake in a jar). Taste for seasoning and drizzle a spoonful or two over the carrot mixture, adding more dressing if desired.
Serves 2-4.
Orange Tapenade
A variation on the the zesty Provençal black olive spread. Serve with cod or halibut, on crackers with cheese or as a sandwich spread.
| ½ pound | black olives, pitted and drained (about one small container at the Italian Centre deli counter), finely chopped |
| 2 | anchovy fillets, rinsed and finely chopped (or to taste, but don’t leave out) |
| ½ | mall garlic clove, chopped fine (optional) |
| 2 T | capers, drained |
| 1 t | grated orange zest |
| 1-2 | orange segments, no pith, finely chopped |
| 1t | fresh lemon juice or to taste |
| pinch | fresh thyme, leaves only, finely chopped |
| 4 T | extra virgin olive oil (Sicilian is nice in this dip) olive oil |
Chop all the ingredients together including any orange juice from the chopping, except for the oil (you can also pulse in a food processor if you prefer a smoother tapenade. Watch carefully though, the olives can end up a grey mush.) Taste for seasoning, (may need more anchovy or orange zest). Add the oil a spoonful at a time until the texture is right for you.
Makes about cup. Use within 4 days.
Sopa De Lima (Mexican Lime Soup)
The quality of the stock really matters here, use your home-made stock or the best you can find. If you are using skin on chicken thighs, you might want to make the soup up to the point where you add the lime: Take off the heat, cool down and chill overnight. Before you plan to serve it, remove the layer of fat and dispose or reserve for another use. Put the soup back on the heat, add the lime and continue.
| 6 c | chicken stock, or equivalent |
| 4-6 | chicken thighs |
| 1 | large red onion, quartered |
| 2-3 | cloves garlic, chopped |
| 2 t | dried Mexican oregano |
| sprig | thyme, leaves only |
| kosher salt and fresh-cracked black pepper | |
| 1 T | vegetable oil |
| 4 | green onions, chopped |
| 1 | large green chile pepper, seeded and chopped |
| 2 | large tomatoes, peeled and chopped, or equivalent |
| 6 | limes, juiced |
| ½ | lime |
| ½ c | ilantro, chopped |
| tortilla chips, for serving |
Bring chicken, stock, onion, garlic, herbs and seasoning to a boil in a large pot. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover and simmer until the chicken is cooked: no longer pink in the centre and juices run clear, 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a cutting board; remove the bones and skin and shred into bite-sized pieces. Return to the soup pot.
Heat the oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the green onions and chile and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in tomatoes; continue cooking until soft, about 5 minutes more. Add to soup; season and bring to a simmer (or take off the heat and chill, see introduction). Add the lime juice and lime; cook 10 minutes more. Remove the pot from heat; remove and discard lime.
To serve: Pour the soup into 4-6 bowls and top with the cilantro tortilla chips
Greek Lemon Potatoes
Just like those crispy and lemony potatoes served with souvlaki at Greek restaurants.
| 4 med | baking potatoes (such as Russets) |
| 4-6 cloves | garlic |
| lg pinch | dried Greek oregano |
| ¼ c | extra virgin olive oil |
| ½ c | freshly-squeezed lemon juice |
| ½ c | water |
| kosher salt and fresh-cracked black pepper |
Preheat the oven to 475ºF.
Peel potatoes and cut lengthwise into quarters. Lay in a single layer in a baking dish with the garlic and sprinkle with dried oregano. Combine oil, lemon juice, water and the salt and pour over the potatoes.
Bake in the hot oven for 25 minutes, then turn each potato slice over carefully. Add a bit more water to the pan if all the liquid has been absorbed and return to the oven for another 25 minutes. The potatoes should now be golden brown with crispy edges, and the garlic caramelized. Remove the potatoes carefully and serve with lamb, roast chicken or fish.
Serves 4-6.
Lemon Rice and Clams with Dill Oil
Clams can be hard to find, but when you can, make this dish. Note: frozen clams usually come purged (cleaned) already.
| 2 T | extra virgin olive oil |
| 1 | white onion, thinly sliced |
| 2 cloves | garlic, crushed |
| 300 g | medium-grain rice, rinsed |
| zest and juice of 1 lemon | |
| ½ c | white wine |
| 2½ c | fish stock |
| 500 g | clams, purged |
Heat the oil in a large saucepan with a lid over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic, and cook, stirring occasionally, until onion has softened (about 7 minutes). Stir in the rice and half the lemon zest and cook until the rice is coated. Add the wine and cook until reduced by half. Add the stock. Cover and cook until the rice is tender, about 15 minutes.
Remove the lid, add the lemon juice, the rest of the zest and the clams to the pan. Cover and cook until the clams open and rice is cooked (about 20 minutes). Discard any unopened clams.
To serve, divide the rice and clams between bowls and spoon the dill oil over.
Serves 4-6 as a starter, 2-3 as a main course.
Dill Oil
| ¼ c | (loosely packed) dill leaves, finely chopped |
| ¼ | preserved lemon, rind finely chopped |
| ¼ c | extra virgin olive oil |
Combine ingredients in a small bowl, season to taste and stir to combine.
Lemon Chicken Tray Bake
This Greek-adjacent tray bake is easy and full of flavour, ideal for a quick dinner and makes for delicious leftovers.
| 4-6 | bone-in chicken thighs |
| 3 | Russet potatoes, peeled and quartered |
| ½ c | white wine |
| ½ c | fresh lemon juice |
| ⅓ c | extra virgin olive oil |
| 4 cloves | garlic, minced |
| 1 T | dried oregano |
| 1 t | dried rosemary |
| 1 pinch | cayenne pepper |
| 1 T | salt |
| 1 t | pepper |
| 1 c | chicken stock, divided |
| 1 lg | red pepper, cut in large strips or chunks |
| 1 t | chopped fresh oregano or parsley, for garnish |
Preheat the oven to 425°F. Oil a large baking dish or cookie tin. Mix the chicken, potatoes, lemon juice, wine, oil, garlic, dried spices, cayenne, salt and pepper in a bowl until well-coated, then arrange the chicken skin side down in the pan. Nestle the potatoes in and around the chicken pieces. Pour ⅔-cup stock over and roast for 20 minutes. Turn the chicken and potatoes and add the peppers. Continue to roast until the chicken is golden and thoroughly cooked, around 25 minutes more.
Remove the chicken and peppers and keep warm. Toss the potatoes in the juices in the pan, then put under the broiler. Broil until the potatoes are crispy, about 3 minutes.
Set the roasting pan on two burners on top of the stove. Remove the potatoes and put with the chicken and peppers on a platter and keep warm. Add the remaining stock and cook for about 2 minutes to concentrate flavours and scrape up all the roasted bits in the pan. Pour over the chicken and vegetables. Finish with parsley or fresh oregano
(if using).
Serve 4-6.
Martha Stewart’s Lemon Squares (and a Grapefruit Variation)
There are many many recipes for lemon squares out there, but nothing beats Martha Stewart’s for ease of preparation and sheer lemonyness. They are a classic, just like your mother’s.
Crust
| ¾ c | (1½ sticks) unsalted butter, frozen, plus more to coat the dish |
| 1¾ c | flour |
| ¾ c | icing sugar |
| ¾ t | coarse salt |
Preheat oven to 350ºF. Butter a 9×13-inch baking dish and line with parchment paper. Set aside. Grate frozen butter on a cheese grater with large holes; set aside. Whisk together flour, icing sugar, and salt in a large bowl. Add butter and stir until combined (mixture will look crumbly). Transfer to the prepared dish and press evenly onto the bottom. Freeze crust for 15 minutes, then bake until slightly golden, about 16-18 minutes.
Leave oven on.
Meanwhile, make the top layer.
Lemon Filling
| 4 lg | eggs, lightly beaten |
| 1⅓ c | sugar |
| 3 T | flour |
| ¼ t | coarse salt |
| ¾ c | fresh lemon juice (roughly 5 lemons) |
| ¼ c | whole milk |
| icing sugar, for dusting |
Whisk together eggs, granulated sugar, flour and salt in a bowl until smooth. Stir in lemon juice and milk.
Variation: Grapefruit Filling
| 1½ c | sugar |
| ¼ c | flour |
| 4 lg | eggs |
| 1 T | grapefruit zest |
| ¾ c | grapefruit juice (about 1 large Ruby Red grapefruit) |
Whisk the sugar and flour together in a bowl. Add each egg, one at a time, whisking well after each addition. Then whisk in the zest and juice.
Either filling:
Pour the filling over the warm crust.
Reduce oven temperature to 325ºF and bake until the filling is set and edges are slightly golden brown, about 18 minutes. Let cool slightly on a wire rack. Lift out; let cool completely on a wire rack before cutting into 2-inch squares. Dust with the icing sugar. Makes about two dozen.
Lime Pistachio Shortbread
Another great recipe from Pucker to add to your shortbread repertoire.
| 1 c | flour |
| ½ t | salt |
| ½ c | unsalted butter |
| ⅓ c | sugar |
| zest of two limes | |
| ⅓ c | roasted unsalted pistachios, chopped finely |
Whisk together flour and salt and reserve. Beat the butter and sugar together until fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the lime zest, and beat again until well-mixed, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed. Add the flour mixture, and mix on low speed, scraping the sides if necessary, until the dough comes together. It may be a bit crumbly, but do not overmix.
Layout a large piece of plastic wrap and turn out the dough. Form into a log, about an inch and a half in diameter, and wrap tightly, smoothing and rolling it in the plastic to make a uniform shape. Refrigerate until well-chilled, up to overnight.
When ready to bake, preheat the oven to 350ºF and line a baking sheet with parchment. Slice the dough into ¼-inch thick rounds. The bottom edge of the cookies may crumble, just squish back into place before placing on the cookie sheet. Bake until just golden, 8-10 minutes. Let cool slightly, then move to a wire rack to cool completely.
Makes 18-20 cookies.
Orange Filo Yogurt Cake
Adapted from a recipe by Katerina Malindretos, via chef Stavros Konis, from Gourmet Traveller Magazine.
1 package filo pastry
Place the filo on large baking sheets and spread out evenly, separating the layers to air dry. Toss gently and turn over occasionally, until filo is dry and crisp about 4-6 hours.
Orange Syrup
| 2 c | water |
| 2 c | sugar |
| 1 | vanilla bean, split and seeds scraped |
| ½ c | orange juice (about 2 oranges) |
Put all ingredients into a large saucepan or pot over high heat. Bring to the boil and stir until sugar has dissolved and thickened slightly, about 3minutes. Take off the heat and let cool until room temperature.
Preheat oven to 275 degrees. Butter a 9×12 baking tin on the bottom and up the sides.
| 3 | eggs |
| 1 | egg yolk |
| ⅔ c | sugar |
| ½ c | vegetable oil |
| 1 | vanilla bean, split and seeds scraped |
| 3 t | baking powder |
| zest from 2 oranges | |
| ⅔ c | natural Greek-style yogurt, plus extra yogurt to serve |
| Candid orange and baby mint leaves, to serve (optional) |
Whisk all the ingredients but the candied orange and mint together in a large bowl, then beat until fluffy. Gradually fold through the dried filo until combined. Spread the mixture evenly in the prepared baking dish and bake until skewer is inserted and comes out clean, cooked and lightly golden (45 minutes).
Remove from the oven, poke a few holes with a skewer over and while the cake is hot, slowly pour over three-quarters of syrup until fully absorbed. Let sit until the cake has cooled to room temperature.
Cut the cake into desired portions, and serve with oranges and mint if using. Drizzle with remaining syrup, if desired.
Serves 8-10
