by Mary Bailey
Recent visits from excellent producers means we can ook forward to some great wines for the holidays, in stock now, or soon, at better retailers.
Cynthia Vermette (Bonvida), Giorgio Fragiacomo (Quercibella) and Frank Olson (Happy & Olive) at Happy & Olive.
What a treat— lunch with the affable and urbane Giorgio Fragiacomo of Tuscany’s Querciabella at Happy & Olive. The wines are to-notch, from exquisite Chianti and super Tuscans to the unforgettable Batàr. Whether you are curious about Maremma or know you love wines from this less-known region of Tuscany, the Mongrana is a terrific place to dive in.
2021 Chianti Classico DOCG. The first purchase by founder Giuseppe Castiglioni was in Ruffoli near Greve in Chianti. (“We are neighbours with Volpaia,” says Giorgio.) Lovely red fruit, juicy, crunchy in the best possible way. Have this with mushroom anything, tomato-based pastas, even fish.
2022 Mongrana Maremma Toscana. Maremma started in 1997, when Querciabella planted vines on the seaside, just south of Grosseto. Mongrana, a blend that changes with every vintage, is primarily Merlot and Cab Sauv, some Cab Franc. Dark fruit, some intriguing evergreen notes, soft tannins—easy to love. Drink with snacks, pizza and pastas.
The 2021 Camartina Toscana IGT, Querciabella’s towering super Tuscan, is now fully Cab Sauv and Sangiovese grown on the arid slopes of Ruffoli. Beautifully balanced, super concentrated with effortless tannins—a lovely wine. Drink slowly with your best steak or the Tuscan favourite, hearty lentils.
2022 Batàr Toscana IGT. This was my first time tasting the legendary Batàr and wow, I get it, couldn’t keep my nose out of the glass. The perfume of citrus grove and white flowers? Heady and everchanging. Beautifully textured, the minerality coupled with lovely undertones of powdered ginger—can’t wait to taste this as it develops. This Chardonnay Pinot Blanc blend is as unexpected as it is exquisite.
We tasted some tremendous Soave wines over dinner at Sabor with Michele Milani of Inama Azienda. The region is experiencing a stunning rebirth—higher quality overall and more individualistic wines coming from producers. Inama has been growing Garganega in the volcanic soil of the region for over 50 years, and it is that igneous basalt that gives Soave its characteristic elegance, texture and power.
Michele Milani (Inama) and Dana Rajotte (Roy + Co.) at Sabor
Let’s start with the everyday 2023 Vin Soave Classico DOC. Yes, I would like to drink this daily—pretty floral aromas, light, crisp and bone dry.
The 2023 Foscarino Classico DOC is complex and layered with evanescent notes of almonds, wildflowers and subtle salinity. Barrel fermentation and aging plus six months on the lees is evident in the texture and longevity of the finish. Just delicious.
The Vulcaia Sauvignon del Veneto IGT is a whole different animal—Sauvignon Blanc grown on the volcanic soil. Citrus and stone, mouth filling, beautifully balanced.
Another surprise from Inama, 2023 Carmènere Più Rosso Veneto IGT, is a special project begun in 2005, growing Carmènere in the iron rich clay over limestone soils of the Colli Berici. None of the green notes associated with Carmènere and all of the lovely berry and chocolate which makes it extraordinarily food friendly.
Enjoy new-to-the-market wines from South Africa from Catherine Marshall Wines, whose son Jono is the winemaker.
We especially liked the 2024 Catherine Marshall Sauvignon Blanc, more French than New Zealand in style (for those who are not fans of the aromas and flavours of gooseberry).
The 2024 Catherine Marshall Sandstone Pinot Noir (Elgin and Hemel-en-Aarde) has perky cranberry and pomegranate notes with pleasing savoury textures and flavours. Imagine this with chicken liver crostini and Christmas turkey, remarkably well-priced too.
These are great examples of cool climate wines—look for all three ranges, including the Amatra (especially Jono’s Wave Chenin Blanc) and the Fine Art labels.
The Champagne region has made an art of blending—the grapes (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier) the crus, the villages, the vintages. Wines are created to fit a distinct house style or celebrate a unique vintage. It’s centuries of history and tradition and, sometimes, the terroir takes a back seat.
Top Burgundy producer Olivier Leflaive questioned this, and now he is blowing it up with Valentin Leflaive, a series of Blanc de Blancs (Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs) that are completely transparent about which village, which cru, which vintage and what dosage. Ownership in Burgundy is fragmented, but the family control the viticulture and the picking. Grapes are sustainably-farmed, hand-picked, undergo long fermentations on the lees, all hallmarks of absolute quality. Keep in mind too, that ownership in a top cru, such as Oger, might be only a few rows of vines—so you can see how painstaking and exact this project is. Philibert de Vregille (global sales director, Valentin Leflaive and Olivier Leflaive) walked us through the label codes.
Philibert de Vregille (Maison Olivier Leflaive) and Misun Bu (Dream Wines) at Color de Vino.
CV 19 3.0 refers to the villages the grapes come from (Cramant Grand Cru, Vertus Premier Cru) the vintage (2019) and the dosage (3.0 grams/litre). The result? A beautifully balanced Blanc de Blancs that will see you through the holidays in style.
Sigma 20 4.0 is from the seven top villages—40-year-old vines rooted in the austere chalk and limestone soils of the Côte des Blancs.
The Avize 18 4.0, 100 per cent Grand Cru Avize (chalk soil, higher altitude) fruit, with 50 months on lees expresses this terroir in a stunning fashion—subtle, delicate, yet so powerful.
Le Mensil-Sur-Oger 17 5.0, all from 20-year-old vines in this Grand Cru village (flint, south and southwest facing). Elegant, creamy textured, beautiful minerality, long finish. If you love Blanc de Blancs Champage like I do, you will be very excited to try these impeccable wines. Find the best selection at Color de Vino, Crestwood (both locations) and deVine Wines.