by Mary Bailey
The grilled cheese is back! Did it ever really go away?
Long considered a dependable, if a little boring, lunch stalwart, the grilled cheese is sneaking back onto restaurant menus. At Happy & Olive the grilled cheese has pesto, shaved ham, tomato, two mozzarellas and fresh basil. Frank’s Community Pub in Mill Creek opened with a menu of chips and five grilled cheeses, from cheese with ham to kimchi with a gochujang aioli. Café Bicyclette serves the fancy French version of a grilled cheese, Croque Monsieur, essentially a grilled cheese with mornay sauce (put a fried egg on top and it’s called a Croque Madame). It’s delicious and very popular.
Bar Henry’s Millie
At Bar Henry, the grilled cheese sandwich is called the Millie. It’s an elegant little morsel, made with pecorino, and a whisper of honey and fresh black truffle. Crispy, crustless, delectable—an unforgettable treat to have with a glass of wine.
On the other side of the spectrum is the Grilled Formaggi at Kindred. “It’s huge, it’s delicious, it’s incredibly satisfying and people love it,” says exec chef Jason Greene. “We make our own house focaccia, enriched with roasted confit garlic, garlic oil and fresh herbs, using a sourdough starter named Jouff that we’ve had going for a couple of years. We cut it into four inch squares, slice them lengthways, and use the crusty outside for the inside of the sandwich. We slather the (new) outside with whipped garlic butter and freshly grated parm which forms a cheesy Parmesan crust. We put a mix of fontina, provolone and mozza along with a house-made romesco between the slices of focaccia, then sear it on the flattop, creating a beautiful buttery crust that stands up to the gooey melty cheese. Then we finish it with a drizzle of garlic oil and pepperoncini. It has some funk and umami and a very satisfying melty cheese texture.”
The Grilled Formaggi at Kindred.
A grilled cheese sandwich is a great way to make dinner when you didn’t think you had anything to make dinner with—some bread, that bit of Cheddar, or a knob of blue cheese, the hunk of dried-out Swiss at the back of the fridge. Grated together they make a terrific filling, into the frying pan (or air fryer) between two slices of bread—easy peasy. To liven up the sandwich, think of all those little jars of various condiments that you received in Christmas gift baskets—a few pickled jalapeños here, a spoonful of chutney there, some dills or cornichons to provide contrast and crunch. A slick of Dijon or grainy mustard adds flavour and using mayo instead of butter on the outside (the grill side) adds tang and makes the sandwich less likely to burn.
The choices of what to put in a grilled cheese are practically infinite. Add some apple slices, or celery, or bacon. In the fall, when we still have wonderful tomatoes, add a few thick slices before that top slice of bread goes on. Keep in mind that the quality of the bread really matters in a simple thing like a grilled cheese. Pick up a loaf from Bonjour Bakery, Bon Ton, Brio or Breadlove for best results.
“The grilled cheese is the ultimate comfort food,” says Stephanie Moore, owner, Three Vikings Danish Pub. “Crispy. Cheesy. Savoury. Satisfying. One bite reminds you that sometimes all you need is the perfect balance of crispy bread and melty cheese to turn things right side up again. So simple. So perfect. Very hygge. And then there is the guiltless pleasure of dipping a grilled cheese into the perfect soup. I base my grilled cheese consumption on the dippability of our daily soup. The tomato basil, spiced butternut squash and cream of mushroom are all classics with high dippability factor. My day just got better thinking about it.”
Three Vikings Grilled Cheese.
Three Vikings Grilled Cheese
“We offer bacon, pulled pork, bourbon onion and Saskatoon raspberry compote as additions and sourdough instead of marble rye if you prefer. Sautéed mushrooms are also delicious in a grilled cheese,” Stephanie Moore, Three Vikings Pub.
| 2 slices | marble rye |
| 2 slices | aged white Cheddar (about 2.5 oz) |
| 1 slice | dill Havarti (about 1.25 oz) |
| 1 T | room temperature butter |
Preheat oven to 475°F.
Place a large cast iron pan on medium heat to warm.
Generously spread butter on one side of each slice of marble rye. Place bread butter-side down into warm cast iron pan and place one slice of Cheddar on each slice. Place one slice of Havarti onto one of the slices of bread. Cook for about 3 minutes until the bread is toasted and the cheese starts to melt. Pop the pan into the oven for about 3 minutes until the cheese is nicely melted. (Finishing in the oven prevents the bread from over browning and you get a great, melty cheese pull.)
Once the cheese is melted, place the two halves together and cut in half on a bias to serve.
Grilled Gouda, Prosciutto and Tomato Jam Sandwich
Chef Jason Wild, Meals on Wheels
For the sandwich
| 2 slices | ½-inch thick French bread (sliced on a slight bias)r |
| 3 T | whipped butterr |
| 3 T | tomato jam (recipe follows)r |
| 2 slices | smoked Gouda cheeser |
| 4-5 slices | thinly sliced prosciutto |
Butter one side of each bread slice. Spread the tomato jam on the unbuttered side. Place Gouda on top of the jam, then a slice of the ham. Follow with the remaining cheese and ham. Place in the skillet and top with the other piece of bread, buttered side out. Cook over low-medium heat until the cheese is starting to get gooey and the bread is golden. Do not let scorch. Flip over and cook the other side until golden and crispy.
Makes 1 sandwich.
For the jam
| 6-8 | Roma tomatoes, blanched, chilled and peeled |
| ¾ c | brown sugar |
| 4 T | apple cider vinegar |
| ½ T | grated fresh ginger |
| 1 | orange zested |
| ½ t | cinnamon |
Add all ingredients into small saucepan over high heat and bring to a boil stirring frequently. Reduce heat to simmer and stir occasionally until mixture has a jam consistency. Remove from heat and cool. Refrigerate and use within 2-3 weeks.
Makes about 2 cups.
Cherry Bomb Grilled Cheese
Chef Liana Robberecht, creative director, Brew + Bloom
| 4 | ½-inch thick slices French bread |
| 2 T | butter, softened |
| 1 | Canadian triple cream brie wheel (about 4 oz) rind cut off, sliced into 4 equal slices |
| Candied tomatoes (recipe follows) | |
| 6 slices | cooked bacon |
| ¼ t | fresh cracked black pepper |
| ½ t | Maldon salt |
Preheat oven to 350°F.
Place bread slices on a work surface; butter one side and turn over, butter side down. Place one slice of Brie on each bread slice. Top two slices evenly with the candied tomatoes and bacon. Sprinkle each slice of bread with pepper. Cover tomato side with the Brie side, leaving butter side out.
Heat a large ovenproof skillet over medium heat. Cook sandwiches for 3 minutes on each side or until golden brown. Place skillet in oven for 5 to 7 minutes or until the cheese is melted.
Let the sandwich rest for 1 minute; cut in half and place on plates; sprinkle with salt. Serve immediately. Enjoy!
Makes 2 sandwiches.
For the candied tomatoes
| 2 | cherry or grape tomatoes (approximately 24) cut in half and seeded |
| 1½ c | sugar |
| 1 | bay leaf |
| 1 sprig | thyme |
| ½ sprig | rosemary |
| 2 slices | each lemon and orange |
| 1 T | vermouth or white wine |
In a glass bowl combine tomatoes, sugar, bay leaf, thyme and rosemary. Squeeze juice from lemon and orange slices and add along with the rind. Toss, making sure the tomatoes are covered with the sugar. Cover and refrigerate for 24 hours.
Heat a small skillet over medium-high heat, add tomato mixture and bring to a boil, stirring occasionally. Add vermouth and cook for 1 minute. Strain through sieve into a bowl, reserving the liquid. Discard stems and rinds. Refrigerate candied tomatoes and liquid to cool.
Ruth Reichl’s Diva of a Grilled Cheese Sandwich
| 2 T | shallot, leek, scallions or onions (any colour), finely chopped |
| 1 clove | garlic, minced (optional) |
| ¼ lb | Cheddar cheese, divided |
| butter | |
| 2 slices | thickly sliced, sturdy sourdough bread |
| mayonnaise |
Grate a few generous handfuls of the best Cheddar you can afford. (Set a little aside, then gently combine the rest with the onion mixture.)
Butter one side of each slice of bread and heap as much of the cheese-onion mixture as possible between the slices (butter facing in). Spread a thin layer of mayonnaise on the outsides of the bread (this will keep it from scorching on the griddle). Press the reserved grated cheese into the mayonnaise, where it will create a wonderfully crisp and shaggy crust, giving your sandwich an entirely new dimension. (For less mess, it helps to apply the mayonnaise and cheese first on one side only, lay that side on the griddle, then quickly do the remaining top side while the bottom is sizzling.)
Fry on a heated nonstick griddle or in a nonstick skillet about 4 minutes a side, until the cheese is softly melted.
Croque Monsieur (The Crunchy Mister)
The traditional recipe is with Gruyère, but you could make using beautiful Sylvan Star Gouda, like the Grizzly, or Taleggio or Comté. Add a fried egg on top and you have a Croque Madame. Adapted from a recipe by David Lebovitz.
| 4 slices | (½-inch-thick) sourdough |
| 2 t | unsalted butter, softened, divided |
| 1 t | flour |
| ¾ c | milk |
| 4 oz | grated Gruyère (about 1 c) divided |
| ½ t | kosher salt |
| ¼ t | black pepper |
| 4 slices | cooked, unsmoked ham (3 ounces total) |
| 1 T | Dijon mustard |
Preheat oven to broil with rack about 8 inches from heat source. Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium-high. Spread 1 side of bread slices evenly with 1 tablespoon of the butter. Place bread slices, buttered side down, in skillet; cook until toasted and golden, 2 to 4 minutes. Transfer bread to a work surface.
Melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat until foamy. Whisk in the flour and cook, whisking constantly, until light golden, about 1½ minutes. Gradually whisk in milk; bring to a simmer over medium, whisking constantly. Reduce heat to low; cook, whisking often, until thickened, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat. Add ¼ c of the grated cheese and whisk until melted. Stir seasoning into the Mornay sauce. (If not using right away, cover with plastic wrap, to prevent a skin forming on the top, for up to 1 hour.)
Arrange two of the bread slices on a work surface, toasted side down. On each slice, spread two tablespoons of Mornay sauce to evenly cover the surface. Sprinkle each bread slice with ¼ c grated cheese and top with two ham slices. Spread mustard evenly on untoasted sides of remaining two bread slices; place, mustard side down, on top of ham-topped bread. Spread remaining Mornay sauce evenly on top of sandwiches, then top with remaining ¼ cup grated Gruyère.
Transfer sandwiches to a rimmed baking sheet and broil in preheated oven until cheese has melted and top is bubbly and brown.
Makes 2 sandwiches.
Chef Liana Robberecht’s ode to the Calgary Stampede Centennial.
Stampede Centennial Grilled Cheese Sandwich with Pulled Beef Short Ribs
Chef Liana Robberecht developed this hearty grilled cheese sandwich recipe using Alberta beef and all-Canadian cheeses for the Calgary Stampede’s Centennial. It’s a classic.
Prepare BBQ pulled beef short ribs and onion jam before making the sandwiches.
For the BBQ beef short ribs
In a 5-6½ quart slow cooker, place 1 lb beef short ribs, top with ¼ c chopped onion, a sprig of rosemary, a sprig of thyme and a bay leaf.
In a bowl, stir together 1 cup barbecue sauce, ½ cup water, 2 t bourbon, 1 t grainy mustard, and a pinch each salt and pepper; pour over ribs. Cover and cook on low until meat is very tender, 6-8 hours.
Remove the ribs from the slow cooker, discard bones and using 2 forks, pull the meat apart. Place the pulled meat in a bowl.
Skim the fat from the liquid left in the slow cooker and discard rosemary, thyme and bay leaf. Stir about ¼ cup of the liquid into the reserved meat to moisten.
Set aside for the sandwiches.
For the onion jam
In a small skillet, heat 1 t olive oil over medium heat. Add 1 c thinly sliced red onion and 2 T sugar; cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add 2 T cassis liqueur and continue cooking for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally and adjusting heat as necessary. Add 1 T apple cider vinegar and cook another 5 minutes, stirring frequently or until it reaches a jam consistency. Remove from heat immediately. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Makes about 1 cup.
For the sandwich
| 1 c | pulled beef short ribs |
| 2 T | onion jam |
| 4 slices | ½-inch-thick sourdough bread |
| 2 T | unsalted butter softened |
| 6 slices | provolone |
| ¼ c | blue cheese, crumbled |
| 1 | vine-ripened tomato cut into wedges |
| 2 t | extra virgin olive oil |
| Maldon salt |
Place bread slices on a work surface; butter one side and turn over, buttered side down. Place one and a half slices of provolone on two bread slices; top evenly with the blue cheese, the pulled short ribs, and remaining provolone. Cover with the bread, buttered side up.
Heat a large skillet or electric griddle over medium heat. Place sandwiches buttered side down and cook, turning once, for 3-4 minutes on each side or until golden brown and cheese has melted.
Meanwhile, in a small bowl, toss tomato wedges with oil and a sprinkle of salt; divide among plates. Cut grilled cheese in half diagonally and spoon onion jam on top. Serve immediately.
Makes 2 sandwiches.
Tomato Soup
The OG accompaniment to a grilled cheese sandwich. Who needs canned tomato soup when you can whip up a tasty soup using canned tomatoes and pantry ingredients? Jazz it up with a scattering of fresh basil and parsley, add a swirl of heavy cream, sour cream or crème fraiche. Or tahini. Even a cup of milk. You could use store-bought stock or a stock cube if you don’t have any in the freezer.
| 6 T | unsalted butter |
| 1 | yellow onion, chopped |
| 1 | leek, sliced thin |
| 1 clove | garlic, chopped |
| 1 | carrot, chopped |
| 1 lg | can (24 ounces) whole tomatoes |
| 3 c | chicken or vegetable stock |
| 2 t | sea salt |
| ¼ t | fresh-ground black pepper |
Melt the butter in a large saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the onion, garlic and carrot. Cook, stirring, until onions have softened, about 15 minutes. Add the tomatoes, chicken stock, salt and pepper; bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and cook, partially covered, until the tomatoes, onions and garlic are soft, about 20 minutes.
Carefully transfer the soup to a blender jar (work in batches if necessary) or use an immersion blender. Purée until smooth. Return to saucepan and place over medium heat. Cook until the soup is heated through. If soup seems too thick, stir in some extra stock or water to thin. Serve immediately with a grilled cheese sandwich. If adding cream or milk, swirl it in right before serving and scatter chopped herbs on top.
Serves 4-6.