by Mary Bailey with photos by Curtis Comeau
Who makes us look differently at our food culture? Who inspires us?
Who challenged us to see Italian food differently? Who started working with local farmers, long before it became cool? Who took a simple thing like a pyrohy or pizza or a green onion cake and created a cultural icon? Who made us look at indigenous cuisine and realize it was more than bannock (not that there is anything wrong with good bannock).
Who helped us realize there is spectacular food from every culture and that it could be equally delicious in a white tablecloth setting or a food truck? Who started writing about food in a serious way?
Chocolate didn’t have to come from Europe in a pretty box, beer didn’t have to be in millions of gallons, bread could be made from local flours and be sour. Ice cream could be small batch and made right here. Coffee could be sourced from individual farms.
The people in these pages came up with a bright idea or a new way of doing things. They made us think differently about what we eat and where it comes from. These are the individuals who make a difference.
These folks changed the game.
It’s not easy being first. There are headwinds. They had to teach their guests a new way of looking at a dining experience or food. Some people got it right away, everyone else came later.
Edmonton has had some great restos in the past 30 years and some terrific chefs, like Judy and Wilson Wu (Polo’s, Wild Tangerine). When Brad Lazarenko opened Culina in Mill Creek in 2004 he captured lightning in a bottle. Casual service, family-style plating, water in bottles that previously held wine—that was all new then. Now? We take it for granted. That ricotta on toast you see at almost every resto now? Daniel Costa at Corso 32, circa 2010.
Before that it was the Swiss chefs: Walden’s, La Suisse, Boccalino, followed by Hardware Grill and Jack’s Grill in the late ‘90s. And, yes, the multigenerational family stalwarts—Lingnan, Normand’s, Sorrentino’s, Coliseum Steak and Pizza.
Restaurants are the canary in the coal mine—they are the first to be affected by negative forces—the slow post-Pandemic recovery, an unsettled economy, changing demographics and a downtown that needs some love.
Gamechangers? They are survivors, they have been honed by, let’s say, less-than-stellar conditions in which to grow a business. Somehow these folks pivot, change direction, march to the beat of a different drummer, and surprise and delight with every bite.
The most exciting thing? There is an entire generation getting ready to become gamechangers. We can’t wait.
Chefs, Restaurateurs, Importers
Peter Zukiwski (Pitt County BBQ)
Built a company celebrating Carolina barbecue inspired by his Ukrainian grandmother’s culinary traditions.
Brayden Kozak (High Dough, Three Boars)
Created a memorably tiny restaurant with inventive food and cocktails, then successfully pivoted to Detroit-style pizza during the Pandemic.
Tomoya Mutaguchi (Izakaya Tomo)
Introduced the izakaya concept to Edmonton diners—it’s the Japanese version of a pub; a jovial place to drink and eat.
Paul Shufelt (Workshop Eatery)
One of the first YEG chefs to fully commit to whole-animal cooking, and uses the trim at his burger joints, Woodshed Burgers.
Peter Keith (Meuwly’s)
Opened Meuwly’s with partners to create locally-made charcutierie; launched Scale Kitchens to help incubate small food businesses, like Beb’s Bagels.
Jesus Gonzalez Rivas (Paraiso Tropical Latin Market)
Carries on the family business of importing and selling hard to find Latin foods; expanding take-out meals with a new shop in Manchester Square.
Kasim Kasim (Padmanadi)
Edmonton’s premier vegan resto was started by Kasim Kasim and Lindawaty Lindawaty in 2002, carried on by their daughter Maya, who never thought she’d be in the restaurant business.
Teresa Spinelli (Italian Centre Shops)
Teresa built a multi-store grocery business, expanding on what her father, Frank, started with one shop on 95 Street. We may think she builds stores, but for Teresa, it’s about building people.
Dominique Moquin and Josh Meacham (Boxer Bar, Fennec)
This couple is making a career of creating fun, slightly quirky dining spots, including one on a Whyte Avenue-area rooftop.
Doreen Prei (Royal Mayfair Golf Club)
Lucky Edmonton that Doreen Prei decided to make a career here. She is a keen competitor, ultimate skills master and flavour maven. What’s important to her now? Giving back to her community and passing on skills to the next generation of chefs.
Dave Manna (Rosso, Bianco and Nero)
Dave is one of Edmonton’s originals. He moved on from the business of fast food to building beautiful hospitality spaces and yes, outstanding wood-fired pizza,
Winnie Chen (Fu’s Repair Shop)
Chefs are not just in the kitchen now. Winnie’s talent for competition (something she never thought she would do), mentorship skills and ability to create dishes with a unique blend of Chinese flavours moved her into ownership.
Siu To (Green Onion Cake Man)
How do you create an iconic Edmonton dish? Siu To looked to his ancestral region in northern China. Now, we all eat green onion cakes.
Ron Elmaleh (Kobachi Restaurant)
Ron and his wife, Chika, created a jewel of a resto in Sherwood Park, fresh, seasonal, intimate. This is sushi. He calls it conscious cuisine and we are flocking to it.
Lino Oliveira and Christian Mena (Sabor, Bodega)
Yes, outstanding seafood thrives in the prairies! For nearly two decades, this duo has built a stellar reputation for impeccable sourcing, great food, fine wine and warm hospitality that leaves a lasting impression.
Allen Anderl and Daniel Costa (Corso Group)
Daniel started an Italian food revolution with the opening of Corso 32 in 2010. Modern design, loud music, not a red-checked tablecloth in sight. Along with Allen and the other chef partners, the group has opened Bar Bricco, Bar Henry, Olia, Mimi, Va and Rita—each space beautifully designed, each with its own point of view and each menu a rigorous exploration of Daniel’s love of Italian food culture.
Scott Iserhoff and Svitlana Kravchuk (Bernadette’s)
This cosy downtown resto explores indigenous cuisine in a way that’s fresh, approachable and completely modern. The food is an homage to their grandmothers, especially Scott’s Kokum, Bernadette.
Julia Kundera (Out of Bounds)
Along with her sister Zofia, Julia has been cooking thoughtful, locally sourced food for several decades—from Café Mosaics to Two Rooms, to the Enjoy Centre, to Holts. Now watch her transform what we think about golf course food.
Blair Lebsack and Caitlin Fulton (RGE RD, The Butchery)
They are fully committed to local and seasonal sourcing, and opened a restaurant and butcher shop to realize their vision of whole-animal cooking. We’re glad they did.
Ben Staley (Kin Bar)
Ben has shifted gears a few times in his career and, now, at Kin, he is able to present the full picture—a welcoming space, clever cocktails and creative cooking.
Isaac Choi (Japonais Bistro)
You could say Isaac is responsible for how we look at Japanese food in Edmonton, first with Japonais, then Dorinku and Kin. We’re curious what’s next for this serial restaurant entrepreneur.
Goldie Hazrah (Monsoon Bistro)
Goldie gave us a new way of looking at Indian (particularly Mughal) cuisine and offers it with tremendous hospitality.
Ariel del Rosario and Roel Canafranca (Filistix/The Flavour Agency Catering)
These two enterprising chefs showed us how to enjoy delicious Filipino flavours. Now, other Filipino chefs (La Mesa, Barako Bistro) are following in their footsteps.
Shane Chartrand (Paperbirch)
Shane is spreading the philosophy of indigenous cooking from Egypt to Boston, on your TV screen, in cookbooks and documentaries. And you can have dinner with him at the OSFM.
Brad Smoliak (Kitchen)
Was Brad the first person to put a pyrohy on a fine dining menu? We think so. The most important thing for Brad and food? It was about the people—Brad’s contribution to the Edmonton food scene is immeasurable. We will miss him so much.
Chocolate Wizards
Jacqueline Jacek (Jacek Chocolate Couture)
Jacqueline combined her love of fashion with the love of chocolate. Jacek has grown into two retail boutiques, an online biz, and an expanded production facility in Sherwood Park.
Antoine Lavoie (Delavoye Chocolate Maker)
Antoine crafts chocolate directly from the bean. It’s a fascinating process that allows him full control over the finished product, whether that be a bar, a drink or baked chocolate treats.
Brett Roy (Sweet Lollpalooza Confections)
Brett has made delectable chocolate confections in his downtown studio since 2009. And those caramels? Oh my.
Cocktail Pioneers
Andrew Borley and Jordan Clemens (Woodwork, Bar Clementine)
Woodwork, (followed by Bar Clementine, a few years later) ushered in Edmonton’s cocktail era. There were nightclubs and there were bars, but a place where cocktails and their makers were the primary focus? Before Woodwork we had none. Now the scene is thriving. That makes them gamechangers.
James Grant (Fairmont Royal York)
His skill was obvious when James was behind the bar at Clementine and Little Hong Kong. He was awarded the Diageo World Class Global Bartender of the Year in 2021. Now he is the beverage director at the Fairmont Royal York as well as a frequent guest bartender at all the cool places.
JoAnne Pearce (Spilt Zero Proof)
JoAnne has put paid to the idea you need to have alcohol to a) have fun and b) make the drinks taste good. The zero-proof cocktails here are works of art and a good time is being had by all.
Beer Meisters
Taylor Falk (Sea Change Brewing)
The YEG craft beer scene was already heating up when a group of brewers, artists and musicians decided to start a brewery and call it Sea Change. It’s known for the distinctive art and design by co-owner Pete Nguyen and its bold approach to community collabs.
Darren McGeown (Arcadia Brewing Co.)
Yes, it’s about the beer and a fun taproom, but it’s really about the community outreach practised by owner Darren McGeown—he makes it easy to give, whether that’s a warm clothing drive or flats of cold water in the summer for the downtown community. We are all in.
Greg Zeschuk (Blind Enthusiasm Craft Beer)
Wanting to build a brewery close by,somewhere he could ride his bike to, Greg reinvigorated the whole neighbourhood with Ritchie Market.
Wheat Kings
(Duchess Bake Shop)
Garner and Giselle Courteau brought the charm and whimsy of French patisseries to 124 Street. Joined by Giselle’s husband, pastry chef Jacob Pelletier, they built Duchess into the go-to stop for pastry. The selection of delights—macarons, the iconic Duke and proper viennoiserie continue to delight us even though the trio have sold the business.
Yvan Chartrand (Bonjour Bakery)
After spending several years in Japan operating a multi-location bakery, Ritsuko and Yvan decided they wanted to be closer to where their primary ingredients were grown. Since opening in 2009, and moving to a larger site on Whyte Avenue, Yvan continues his exploration of local wheat and long, slow fermentations.
Gerry Semler and Edgar Semler (Bon Ton Bakery)
Gerry and his brother Edgar carry on at the 70 year-old bakery with an expanded premise, a new kitchen, loads more delicious breads and a new line of savoury items.
Knowledge Sharers
Kathryn Joel (Get Cooking)
Kathryn brings people together in her cooking studio for great food and community. She also works with several notable chefs too, like Mai Nguyen.
Will Kotowicz (NAIT)
This fermentation guru was a partner in Meuwly’s and now spends his time teaching all things fermented at NAIT, consulting and dreaming up new creations for Fuge Sausage.
Zofia Trebaczkiewicz (EPL Kitchen)
Zofia is nourishing entire communities by expanding access to culinary literacy. Being able to cook for yourself is a supremely important form of literacy. It’s the foundation of food security and, for Zofia, the way build sustainable, resilient food systems for all.
Kaelin Whittaker (Awn Kitchen)
Kaelin wants us to know that good food is on the farms and in the fields all around us. Her focus is seasonal cooking from local producers, many
of whom you will meet in her classes.
Agriculturalists
James Vriend and Jenny Berkenbosch (Sundog Organic Farm)
James and Jenny built a thriving farm share/market garden business based on regenerative farming and sustainability. Now, the future is uncertain after their farm experienced the unprecedented rainfall this year.
Riccardo Baldini (Strathcona Microgreens)
A spinal cord injury changed the trajectory of Riccardo’s life. His response? Build a microgreen business he can operate from his wheelchair.
Jeff Nonay (Lakeside Farmstead)
Jeff provides high-quality beef for restaurants like Sabor, Hayloft and Fu’s Repair Shop, along with unique cheeses made on the farm in the Sturgeon Valley. Can’t get much closer to home than that.
Marius De Boer (Four Whistle Farm)
Four Whistle was one of the first local farms to deliver to restaurants, as well as being everybody’s first stop at the OSFM and Bountiful Farmers’ Markets for eggs and high-quality meats.
Communication Virtuosos
Judy Schultz (Author)
Judy took the Edmonton Journal food pages from three ways with cherry pie filling to dynamic reportage of the food scene. She was the first to write absorbing stories about real chefs. Judy set the bar high and we continue to try to reach it.
Rochelle Ignacio (Community Advocate)
She doesn’t work in a kitchen but this passionate communicator, community advocate and activist is constantly cooking up engaging ways to amplify underrepresented communities; Rochelle brings their food, art and culture to Edmontonians.
Jessie Cayabo (Bonafide Media & PR)
With a keen eye for detail and sixth sense for great brand positioning, Canadian hospitality pros laud her Midas touch in food marketing that brings community together and diners to restaurants
Coffee Mavens
David Walsh and David Laville (Rogue Wave Coffee Co.)
Coffee aficionados David and David, along with partner Ply Pasarj, love the process of coffee—from high-quality raw product to the cup.
Poul Marc (Transcend Coffee & Roastery)
Poul Mark was one of the first to take the risk and open a roastery. His primary goal? Build community by creating a space for coffee lovers.
Joe Parrottino (Ace Coffee Roasters)
We consider Joe to be the OG of the Edmonton coffee scene. From a coffee bar in HUB to ACE Coffee’s several locations and south side roastery.
Santiago Lopez and Kristin Panylyk de Lopez (The Columbian)
They grew a sprawling coffee business out of a family connection and a desire to help out Columbian coffee farmers.
Ice Cream Impresarios
Tom Ursino (Pinocchio Ice Cream)
The city’s pioneer (started by his father Salvatore in 1981) in locally made ice cream, gelato and sorbetto keeps up with current trends. Regularly tapped by city chefs for custom creations—there’s no end in sight to this man’s passion for frozen delights.
Paula Shyba (KIND Ice Cream)
Paula and Candyce Morris, along with Nicole Bhar, (Paula’s wife and Candyce’s sister) brought handcrafted, small-batch ice cream
to the neighbourhoods. Not just a nostalgic idea, their foundation of kindness and inclusivity belongs on every street. Many other terrific ice cream shops followed.
Ailynn and Jason Wong (Yelo’d, Little Bon Bon)
There is nothing vanilla about the creations at their two shops. Yelo’d captures the imagination of the most curious and adventurous eaters by using their own Chinese and Filipino flavour heritage as well as tropical fruits, herbal teas and candy store treats to create memorable ice creams.
