Enjoy the Lunar New Year tradition of dumplings
by Mary Bailey
Photo: Mai Nguyen
During the Lunar New Year (February 5-19) dumplings have great significance. Not only do they bring luck, eating dumplings made with cabbage on the eve of the holiday ensures fair skin and a gentle manner. Order or make lots because leftover dumplings means abundance in the year ahead. Another tip to remember when making dumplings—be sure to include lots of pleats as the pleats symbolize wealth. Flat, pleatless dumplings are not a good thing!
Expert dumpling makers (and eaters) Andrew Fung of XIX, Mai Nguyen, and Ray and Chris of Honest Dumplings all have a slightly different take on the dumpling. What they did agree on is that dumplings are delicious and we should all eat more of them, especially during the Chinese New Year, in 2019, the year of the Pig.
“Dumplings are democratic. Every Asian family eats dumplings, rich or poor. Every Asian kid thinks his mum makes the best dumplings, but my mum really does make the best.
“I eat dumplings all the time. I especially like them at midnight in chicken broth. I also love prawn dumplings and there is one I like that has a tiny bit of prawn with pork, bacon fat and wood ear mushrooms.
“The Chinese New Year tradition I grew up with in Hong Kong was deep-fried dumplings (pastry stuffed with meat) which were put in a tin can. When people came to the house, we would open the can and give them a dumpling.
“Dumplings are classic homemade food. We make them together. My mum makes the fillings and we all wrap, then put them in the freezer in packs of 20.
“With dumplings it’s important to always have enough. Make extra, it’s good to have leftovers.”
Pork and Pak Choi Dumpling
The cabbage dumpling is traditional for Chinese New Years Eve. Use store-bought Double Happiness brand wonton wrapper or round dumpling wrappers.
| 1 c | water |
| 2 T | grated ginger |
| ¼ c | vegetable oil |
| 550 g | ground pork |
| 200 g | pak choi, finely chopped |
| 1 bundle | green onion, finely chopped |
| salt to taste |
Put green onion and ginger into water and bring it to boil for a minute then cool down. Add rest of the ingredients and mix well. Lightly dust a baking sheet with cornstarch. Place about 1½-2 teaspoons of filling in the centre of a wrapper. Moisten the edge of dumpling skin with water. Fold over the filling to form a half-moon shape. Press edges to seal. Place on prepared baking sheet. Repeat with remaining filling and wrappers. Makes about 30 dumplings.
Beef Dumpling
| 1 c | water |
| 1 bundle | green onion, finely chopped |
| 15 g | grated ginger |
| 440 g | ground beef |
| 150 g | ground pork |
| ½ T | white pepper |
| 2 T | soy sauce |
| 1 T | rice wine |
| ½ T | sugar |
Bring green onion and ginger into water and bring it to boil for a minute then cool down. Add rest of the ingredients and mix well. Lightly dust a baking sheet with cornstarch. Place about 1½ teaspoons of filling in the center of a wrapper. Moisten the edge of dumpling skin with water. Fold over the filling to form a half-moon shape. Press edges to seal. Place on prepared baking sheet. Repeat with remaining filling and wrappers. Makes about 30 dumplings.
“Dumplings deserve more respect. China created them, and every culture has them. What is ravioli or a pyrohy but a dumpling? Ravioli can be $30 a plate. It’s the same amount of work as a dumpling, the same food cost,” she says.
“Yet, people turn up their nose at dumplings, they think of them as cheap or low value. My goal is to change that.”
Mai didn’t grow up making dumplings.
“I loved eating dumplings and wanted to learn how to make them. At first it was a challenge, everybody has a story about making dumplings with their grandmother, but I am self-taught.”
Mai works part time at the Prairie Noodle Shop and Biera and creates pop-up dinners featuring her amazing dumplings. “After MasterChef I thought, ‘gotta do this full time.’ I quit my full-time job and started applying at restaurants.”
She found working in a restaurant kitchen radically different from other work environments. “Most cooks would say food prepping is the best part of their shift; being on the line can be very stressful.”
You’ll find Mai at Prairie Noodle folding dumplings. “We always have rotating different flavours, different styles too, sometimes won ton, sometimes pan-fried. I do several pork dumplings. I like lamb in dumplings too.
“I use dumplings as a vehicle for flavour—if I’m making a ragù, I put in a dumpling. I have a vision of my dumplings—I am particular on how the dish is plated, how you eat the dumpling with a special sauce.
I don’t want to open a restaurant, but I do plan to do way more pop ups.”
Also on the horizon is Gourmai Dumplings, Mai’s nascent dumpling business. Stay tuned!
Mai’s Lamb Gyro Dumplings
| 2 lbs | ground lamb |
| 3 T | grated yellow onion |
| 1 T | minced garlic |
| 2 t | oregano |
| 1 t | ground rosemary |
| 1 t | cumin |
| 2 t | paprika |
| 1 T | sugar |
| 2 t | sea salt |
| 1 t | ground pepper |
| 60-80 | round dumpling wrappers |
Mix all ingredients together (not the wrappers) until well incorporated. Once the filling is fully mixed, start folding dumplings. Put 2 teaspoons of filling in the middle of a dumpling wrapper, then wet the edges and bring them together forming a tight seal.
To cook the dumplings, arrange them in a non-stick pan (leave enough room between each dumpling so they are not touching), add 2 tablespoons oil, ¼-cup water, and turn the heat to high. When most of the water has evaporated, turn the heat down to medium-low. The dumplings are ready when all the water has cooked off and the dumplings are a light brown. To ensure dumplings are cooked to a safe temperature, stick a thermometer in the center (the temperature must be at least 72ºC). Serve the dumplings with a tzatziki sauce or other yogurt-based sauce. Makes 60-80 dumplings.
Now you can find their dumplings on their website, at various retailers such as the Italian Centre, Blush Lane, and Planet Organic; via Spud and the Organic Box delivery services and in Calgary and Vancouver. Their storefront, at 10552 114 Street, opens early this year.
“I grew up in China, where we made dumplings together as a family,” says Ray.
“We always ate them at Chinese New Year. Now we have two kids and I plan to continue that tradition. My dad passed away right when we started the business, but my mum works in the business with us and got permanent residency this year working for the company.”
With both Chris and Ray’s mothers working at Honest Dumplings, this really is a family business.
Honest Dumplings incorporates ingredients and flavours not generally associated with traditional dumplings. Ray is the creator of the flavour combos.
“We see the dumpling as a platform to do different things—not just Asian flavours. We like to use seasonal local ingredients when we can. We make our dough with organic flour, salt and oil and colour it with carrot juice and beet juice,” says Ray.
“We love to experiment with different flavours, such as smoky corn and vegetables with corn flour in the dough. The Chinese Lunar New Year limited edition pack has dumplings made with mapo tofu, pineapple sweet and sour pork, lamb flavoured with cumin and dill with a dough made with Parmesan and white wine.”
“We do many limited editions,” says Chris.
Chris’ dumpling epiphany happened in Shanghai. “We were told the best dumplings in Shanghai were down this alley—a hole in the wall, just a lean-to and an old lady,” says Chris. “There was a long lineup, 30-50 people waiting for her dumplings, made with daikon, dried fungus, pork and shepherd’s purse, a green that is a local favourite. She cooked them in the cast iron pan with oil and water. In the alley. They were worth the wait.”
Honest Dumplings Truffle Oil Oyster Mushroom Dumplings
Dough
| 3 c | organic unbleached flour |
| 1 c | water (room temperature) * |
| 2 t | Italian parsley, chopped |
| 1 t | olive oil |
| 1 t | sea salt |
Mix flour with the parsley and salt. Add the water and oil, mix well. Knead for about 7 minutes or until smooth. Let it rest for at least 30 minutes. Use a rolling pin or a pasta sheeter to roll out dough. Use a 9-cm round cookie cutter to cut wrappers.
* The flour or water quantities may need to be adjusted to form a smooth dough that comes together but is not sticky. Add more flour if it is too sticky. Add more water if the dough doesn’t come together.
Filling
| 2 c | chopped white onion |
| 7 c | chopped fresh oyster mushrooms |
| 1 c | Italian parsley, chopped |
| 2 T | white truffle oil |
| ½ T | sea salt |
Sauté the chopped onion for about 5 minutes until translucent. Transfer the cooked onion into a bowl, add in the mushrooms, parsley and salt.
Drizzle filling with truffle oil. Mix well. Put about 2 teaspoons of filling in each wrapper and fold it into a dumpling. Makes approximately 70 dumplings.
Where to Eat Dumplings
Shanghai 456
14456 118 Avenue, 780-451-8333, shanghai456.com
Best known for the Shanghai specialty, xiao long bao (soup dumpling)
Shanghai Grill
16336 111 Avenue, 780-930-1828, shanghaigrilledmonton.com
Delicious pan fried, steamed and xiao long bao are available at this restaurant
tucked away in a strip mall next to Job Site Workwear.
Prairie Noodle Shop
10350 124 Street, 780-705-1777, prairienoodleshop.ca
Best known for its modern take on ramen.
You can also enjoy Mai Nguyen’s daily selection of dumplings.