by Mary Bailey
We set off in the first proper blizzard of the season, with the semis carving whiteouts as we creep by the pick-ups in the ditch. No Carstairs-Cremona-Cochrane route today. The storm cleared west of Calgary and we soared into the Rockies. Almost a blue bird day.
First glimpse of the Fairholme Range mountains
I had received an invite to the Tree Lighting Ceremony, the kick-off event to Christmas at the Castle at the Fairmont Banff Springs. Who better to go with me than Juanita Roos of Color de Vino. We had gone on an excellent adventure to London a few years back, why not the same to Banff?
The hotel was bustling, front desk staff efficient and welcoming. Luggage stored and with an hour or so to kill before actual check in, it’s time to hit the Rundle bar.
Juanita with oysters and bubbles at Rundle Bar
Our poor server, confronted with two women fresh off a four-hour road trip and in need of some refreshment. The mood? Festive. That large and comfortable room was filled with family celebrations (one was at least three generations, if not four), Christmas party goers starting the revelry early, a few folks just off the slopes. Exactly what you want to see in a winter resort bar. Not quite the après ski of decades ago (chips, beers, dancing in ski boots). That’s ok. Now, it’s Plymouth martinis.
Christmas officially starts at the Springs with the lighting of the majestic tree in Mt. Stephen Hall. Edmonton’s Cory Christopher was on hand to zhush it up. Besides the designing and the planning and the procurement of all the lovely decorations, it took eight people a full day to transform the 20-foot tall fir into a vintage railway travel-themed fantasy. Magical. Santa joking, kids dancing, band singing Mariah Carey. The most cynical Christmas holiday-hater would have been charmed.
The buffet was magnificent, a hearty mountain repast (with an adorable toy train weaving among the various dishes). It was look, don’t eat though, as we were on our way to dinner at Castello.
Dinner at Castello Italiana
How have I never been here before? Is this Banff’s best kept secret, or am I clueless? Take your pick. Now that I have found it, I’m not letting go. Our server Rudy, originally from Lloydminster, is a long time Banffian and a total gem. Friendly, unobtrusive, moved us along with just the right amount of conversation. As I watched him tend to other guests, I became convinced that Rudy needs to do a master class in restaurant service. He made it look effortless. We had a starter to split, then superbly-prepared house-made pasta. Daniel Costa good. Not a large menu, concise, well-chosen wine list, a terrific experience.
To the clouds
When we got to our room overlooking the Bow Valley, Juanita took one look at the cute twin beds, yelled ‘cloud,’ then belly-flopped onto hers. The most confirmed insomniac would not have any trouble sleeping here.
We woke up to room service coffee and croissants. Do hotel rooms no longer have in-room coffee? Yes, they do. Our coffee service, complete with Nespresso, a full range of teas and a kettle, was tucked into a drawer which we discovered Monday morning, right before we checked out. Note to self, always explore the room before dialing room service.
The Vermillion Room’s executive chef Garrett Kemp at brunch
Festive Holiday Brunch in The Vermillion Room
It may surprise some to know that I am not actually a huge fan of brunch. I like making brunch dishes, at home, but going for brunch? Meh. But I reserve the right to change my mind.
This brunch was revelatory—fresh, lavish, replenished often, with seafood stations, numerous eggs dishes, breakfast meats, a good-looking bread station, cheeses and desserts. And grapefruit mimosas.
The Vermillion Room, the Springs’ French brasserie, takes full advantage of the views across to the Fairholme Range. We saw a family dining in one of the 360 Domes on the terrace—magical with the snow falling all around. Breakfast the next day? Even more successful, a perfectly turned and fluffy French omelette along with the signature oatmeal.
But the best part of The Vermillion Room has to be the amazing Annie Kim, the resourceful and calm maitre’d who works the room, tablet in hand, with joyful equanimity.
The Vermillion Room’s maître d’ Annie
Can’t go to Banff and not have fondue
A big part of the enormous appeal of the Alpine stube-style Waldhaus is the location—away from the hotel, deep in the woods near the river. You navigate several sets of stairs to get there, which makes it a bit of a quest, and helps work off all that cheese. We live in hope. The main room was being refurbished. Instead we went downstairs to the rustic pub for fondue. You could order something else, but why would you?
Lest you think all we did this weekend is eat and drink and splash about in the spa, we did spend a lot of time outside. That is the true luxury of the Banff Springs Hotel, one moment, sybaritic pleasures, the next, forest bathing. Christmas at the Castle is a sparkling way to kick off the holidays, but don’t wait ’til next season. Go now: winter is my favourite time to visit, less crowded, more affordable and always magical.
