by Mary Bailey, DipWSET
There is a compelling movement in wine to less intervention, less messing about with the soil, a more live-and-let-live, or natural way, to deal with pests and a deeper understanding that grapes need to grow within a more uncultivated environment.
Along with a less is more approach in the field, the best winemakers are learning to let go, not try to control everything all the time, to be more intuitive, to allow for natural fermentations, less sulphur, more diverse flavours. Amen to that.
These two Italian producers are well versed in the way of the grape and are examples of what happens when you let go and work with rather than against.
Serafini & Vidotto, Veneto, Italy
Oenologist Francesco Serafini and viticulturist Antonello Vidotto are known for their care and attention to natural processes. Preserve the soil’s vitality, plant with the right density and don’t overproduce (each vine yields about one bottle of wine) could sum up Serafina and Vidotto’s approach to growing wine. This philosophy is ideal for growing grapes in Montello-Colli Asolani DOC, just north west of Treviso. The rolling hills are bound by the Piave River and the geology and aspect are ideal for Cabernet and Merlot and the white grapes of the region.
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Tenuta de Angelis, le Marche, Italy
Quinto Fausti and his son Alighiero own and operate Tenuta de Angelis in southern Marche close to the border with Abruzzo. A lovely family and responsible stewards of the land, they use only their own certified organic grapes. Wines are vegan, fermented with native yeasts and their use of sulphur is low, the maximum allowed is under 80 grams per litre.
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