by Mary Bailey
Autumn is glorious in wine country. Harvest is on the go, there are concerts and winery dinners to attend and the roadside stands are overflowing with late season stone fruit, apples and pears and colourful pumpkins and squash.
But don’t knock yourself out and spend most of your trip driving Hwy 97. Decide to spend your visit in the north, central or south (we chose south this time) and explore it in a leisurely fashion making time for hikes, swims in the pool, long picnic lunches, cinq à sept on a winery patio. Or, take advantage of the guided sit-down tastings several wineries are now offering to learn what’s happening in the vineyard and in the cellar.
tinhorn creek vineyards
Miradoro Restuarant is a don’t miss for the views, chef Jeff Van Geest’s sure-footed kitchen style, demonstrated by a dish made with fresh burratta and fruit picked just a few miles away, and for Manny Ferreira’s hospitality. The exceptional wine list highlights not just Tinhorn but stellar bottlings from up and down the valley.
The 2014’s are winemaker Andrew Windsor’s first vintage. “I have been working with these vineyards for over 20 years,” says Sandra Oldfield, president/CEO ofTinhorn. “I wanted to see our fruit through someone else’s eyes. It’ll still be Tinhorn but it’s exciting to see what Andrew brings to it.”
culmina family estate winery
“Let’s pop up to Culmina to get some photos. It was raining and cloudy the last time I was here.”
There’s no popping up to Culmina. But, the spectacular new vineyard perched on the top of the Golden Mile Bench offers a full-on immersion in all things Culmina in a guided tasting which is well worth booking. We joined a group from Ottawa for a tasting led by Donald Triggs and his daughter Sara. Meanwhile, their veteran winemaker Pascal Madevon was in the vineyard, eager to show off the quality of the fruit and the state of the art monitoring system. “Look at these vines,” he says excitedly. “We’re three weeks ahead and they are impeccable.”
maverick estate winery
Bertus Albertyn of Maverick Estate Winery may be new to Canada but he is not new to wine—he is an accomplished wine maker and viticulturalist from South Africa.It is a family affair with an Alberta connection—father-in-law Shalk de Witt practised medicine in Vegreville for a several decades. My first experience at Maverick saw the entire family hauling in small bins of just-picked Sauvignon Blanc last fall. Now bottled, it’s delicious. Just released: the traditional method sparkling wine Ella 2103 (80 per cent Pinot, 20 per cent Chard) is available to taste on Fridays only—time your visit accordingly. Nice people, fine wines, convenient location right by the side of the highway.
stoneboat vineyards
Lanny Martiniuk has been growing fruit in the south Okanagan for several decades. He grew for commercial wineries, was a part of the Becker Project (how the Okanagan discovered it could grow vinifera, not just hybrids) and helps establish vineyards for new wineries. In other words, there’s not much Lanny Martiniuk doesn’t know about growing grapes. So, when he tells you his Pinotage doesn’t smell like bandaids or taste funky you listen.
Former Blue Mountain assistant winemaker Bill Adams’ expertise is valuable for Stoneboat’s newest project, elegant sparkling wines.
The Pinotage are glorious—fragrant, big and rich, tasting of smoked meat and brambly fruit with fine silky tannins and good structure. The sparkling wines go into the trunk for sipping later by the pool. Stoneboat’s wine shop has an excellent selection of BC-grown foodstuffs as well. And, if you are lucky, the adorable new shepherd puppy will be in the house.
black hills estate winery
“We still have a few bottles of the 1999 Nota Bene, enough to do vertical tastings for maybe another 20 years,” says Glenn Fawcett, referring to the iconic red wine that made the reputation of the winery.
Black Hills is not just about structured Bordeaux blends built to last. They make a lively Carmenere that is snapped up by wine club members; an exceptional white wine called Alibi created by the original winemaker Senka Tennant—a forthright blend of Sauv Blanc and Semillon that rewards the patient—as well as two affordable everyday wines, Cellar Hand Free Run White and Punch Down Red.
This year’s tasting of the 1999 to 2013 Nota Bene, with a barrel tasting of the 2014, will be on Saturday, October 3.
The winery experience at Black Hills is fun—loungy with cabanas around the pool and a DJ spinning along with great food coming out of chef James Holmes’ trailer.
South Okanagan Flavours
Nothing says late summer in the south Okanagan like a peach. Enjoy the last of the ripe and juicy, eat-over-the-sink fruit in a savoury appetizer from chef James Holmes, Black Hills Vineyard Kitchen and a dessert from chef Doug Hyndford, Talons Restaurant at Spirit Ridge Resort.
Prosciutto-wrapped Black Basil and Farmer Cheese-stuffed Roasted Peach, Chili Infused Honey, Spicy Candy Pecan
James Holmes, Vineyard Kitchen at Black Hills Estate Winery
| 1 | large peach |
| 2 slices | thinly-sliced prosciutto |
| 2 T | farmers cheese (James likes BC’s Little Qualicum Cheese Works; try creamy home-made ricotta or the Cheesiry’s Fresca instead) |
| 2 large leaves | black basil |
| 4-6 | candied pecans |
| 1 c | arugula |
| 6-8 | candied pecans for garnish |
Chili Honey
| 1 small jar | local fireweed honey (or Alberta honey) |
| 1 T | chili flakes |
Place chili flakes in the honey. Recap lid and place outside in the sun for at least 24 hours before using.
Peach
Preheat oven to 450°F.
Separate the peach into two halves. Remove pit, and fill that space with cheese. Lay one basil leaf over cheese and wrap each half with prosciutto.
Place peach halves on a baking sheet and bake for about 7 minutes until prosciutto is crispy, peach is warm and cheese is softened,
While baking peach halves are baking, smear chili honey on a plate, randomly place candied pecans on the chili honey pieces.
Toss arugula lightly with olive oil and salt and pepper. Place on top of above ingredients. Set peach onto arugula.
Serve 2 as an appetizer.
Talons Peach Galette
Doug Hyndford, Talons Restaurant at Spirit Ridge Resort
| 1 | large peach |
| 2 T | unsalted butter |
| 2 sheets | frozen puff pastry, thawed (one 17-to-18-ounce package) |
| 2 T | flour, plus more for dusting |
| 1 | large egg + 1 t water to make an egg wash |
| ½ c | sugar |
| ¼ t | ground allspice |
| 2 t | vanilla extract |
| ½ t | finely grated lemon zest |
| 2 t | fresh lemon juice |
| 2-3 | ripe peaches, peeled, pitted and cut into ½-inch-thick wedges |
| ½ c | sliced almonds |
Preheat oven to 450°F.
Prep a baking sheet with butter and parchment paper.
Unfold 1 sheet puff pastry on a floured surface. Brush with egg wash. Unfold the other sheet of puff pastry and lay it on top; press the sheets together with a rolling pin, then roll out into a 14-inch square. Transfer to the prepared baking sheet and refrigerate until firm, about 30 minutes. Refrigerate leftover egg wash for brushing the galette.
Combine the sugar, allspice, vanilla, lemon zest and lemon juice in a large bowl; transfer 2 tablespoons of the mixture to a small bowl and set aside for sprinkling. Add peaches and 3 tablespoons flour to the remaining sugar mixture and toss.
Trim the edges of the pastry with a pizza wheel or sharp knife to make a 12-inch round. Spoon the peaches in the centre, leaving a 2-inch border. Cut the remaining butter into small pieces and scatter on top. Fold in the pastry edges over the filling, pleating as needed. Scatter the almonds over the dough.
Bake until puffed and golden, about 20 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 350 degrees F. Remove from oven, brush crust with the reserved egg wash and sprinkle with the reserved sugar mixture. Return to the oven and bake until the juices thicken and the pastry is cooked through, 30 to 45 more minutes (depending on the juiciness of the fruit. Transfer to a rack and let cool at least 10 minutes so the filling sets.
All photos Mary Bailey
This article was originally published September 2015.