“I haven’t gone duck hunting for years. I’d rather clean a deer than pluck a goose.” – Wade Brintnell, The Wine Cellar
“I like the quiet, the nature. I take my boys with me. It’s about the meat — you have control over the whole process. You know what’s on the table, lean wild meat.
“I was camping with my father and our family friend, the late Gary Cooper. We were cooking venison steaks over a fire pit when Coop produced a bottle of 1982 Ch. Margaux from his bag. What a meal. I celebrated my first elk bow kill by serving the tenderloin with a 1997 Pahlmeyer Red.
“My least favourite thing about hunting? Bad hunters. They give all hunters a bad name — they trespass, they cut fences, they shoot from the road, they kill out of season.
“Sheep hunting is the most challenging hunting anyone can do. We go in on horseback near Cadomin, then tie up the horses and hike up to where the sheep are. My dad’s retired now and spends a lot of time on horseback scouting for sheep.
“Sheep hunters have their own hierarchy. They’re willing to do pretty much anything. We’ll sleep on the side of the mountain, no tent, travelling light, no hot meals, eating a lot of granola bars.
“To get the animal out, you may have to pack out on your back, then on to your saddle and walk the horse — six or seven hours on foot.”
“I grew up hunting, it’s an activity that stays with you.” – Kevin Kossowan, local food advocate, videographer
“There was a time I didn’t hunt. I grew up eating almost exclusively game meat. When I moved from home, it was the last thing I wanted to eat. Now, I am keenly interested in food that comes from where I’m from. Wild food reflects that, also the health aspect. It coincided with me getting into food and wanting to have that connection, killing animals to eat them. When I shot my first calf moose, I understood vegetarians. The death part is not pleasant.
“Hunting is part of my family heritage. Part of the reason is just getting outside, my dad will hunt 80 days a year and pull a trigger once. I do big game with my Dad, and typically hunt for calf moose near Peace River.
“Calves will still be on milk and are just getting on to grass. The tenderness is insane. As well it’s only about 100 pounds or so, which is enough meat for our family.
“My daughter Evelyn will come out grouse hunting with me this year. It’s kind of hunting light, with a campfire, on a quad. You can’t expect a five year old to sit on a cutline and be quiet while you call for moose.”
“I hunt with my sons Chris and Norm.” – Norman C. Suvan, real estate, land development
“We belong to the Pioneer Gun Club. The building, on 12 acres with 820 feet of waterfront on Big Lake, dates back to the Oblate fathers. It was on the cart track from the mission at St. Albert to Lac St Anne. We have upgraded it since then; it even has a bathroom. Big Lake has ideal nesting grounds. There’s thousands and thousands of ducks, we couldn’t hope to harvest them all. The club has 19 members, we raise money for Ducks Unlimited, we skeet shoot, we have dinners and events there.
“We also hunt big game, white tail deer, mule deer and trophy moose.
“It took eight years to get a permit for antelope because we all wanted to go together. It is fantastic. Most people don’t know how to cook wild game. It has no fat. They overcook it. I like to slow roast duck in clamato. I taught my boys to cook game.”
“The Edmonton bow zone is an elite spot for deer hunting. Due to the mixed forests, vegetation, crops, we have a healthy deer count of large size — it’s a bit of a mecca. You cannot use a rifle in the bow zone. A bow has a shorter trajectory, typically an arrow will drop within eyeshot. I hunt from a tree stand, call the deer into bow range which is typically a 40-yard shot.
“I live to hunt ducks and geese. It’s something I grew up doing, the ducks keep coming and coming — you’re not waiting for one deer.
“Mallards and teal are the best eating. You’ve got the camaraderie, you can do it with more than one guy, my brother and I go every year with our dad.
“We created a gentlemen’s hunt where we dress in English-style estate clothing. Even our guns look old as we only allow side by sides, or an over/under. An Englishman or a European wouldn’t use a pump action or semi-automatic shotgun, it’s just not done.
“You’ll see more fathers and daughters hunting in the next five years. A lot of hunting fathers I know only have daughters. My three-year old daughter accompanies me when we go bird spotting.
“Wildest hunting dream trip? I’m really keen to hunt wild doves and red stag in Argentina.”
“I go out with my Ski-Doo suit. I’m happy with the rifle I bought in 1992.” – Doug Hicks, Oiler alumni, wine guy
“It wasn’t until I was over 30 that I started hunting in earnest. Until then, I was gone every fall for junior hockey, then professional hockey. I promised my Dad, ‘When I retire I’m huntin’ with ya.’
“I use a 30-06 Remington, bought that pretty much right after I started. My dad taught me to be patient, to get into the right range. A Remington is not a powerful hit, so a lot of meat doesn’t get damaged. When you grow up with a father who grew up in the depression you don’t lose any meat.
“Softer and fruitier wines like Juan Gil Monestrall from Spain and Buehler’s Napa Valley Zinfandel match perfectly with elk.
“What we’ve seen for the past 20-35 years is a lot less bull elk. In those years there was a lot more snow too.
“Antelope is a different hunt. You’re on bald prairie and they can see for miles. Forget sneaking up on an antelope. Antelope tastes like lamb. I like to do it Greek style, with lemon.
“I enjoy hunting even more knowing my dad, at 82, is still enjoying it. I hunt only for things I like to eat. I like seeing a different country, completely different from northern Alberta. I go out in my Skiddoo suit, I’m happy with the rifle I bought in 1992. We keep it basic.”
Two Brintnell family recipes
Shredded elk/vension enchilada meat
“Game is very lean meat and the bacon drippings give the preparation that needed boost. Use the shredded meat for enchiladas or taco filling. It can be used on a cheese tostada as a topping. It makes a great filling for bunwiches.” – Sharon Brintnell
- 1-3 lb game rump roast
- bacon drippings or oil
- 2 large onions, chopped
- 3 large carrots, chopped
- 2 stalks celery, chopped
- 1 L beef stock
- 2 T white vinegar
- 1 lrg can crushed tomatoes
- 1 bay leaf
- 2½ T chili powder
- 2 T cumin
- 1 t ground cinnamon
- 2 T Worcestershire sauce
Use a slow cooker or Dutch oven. Place bacon drippings or oil in cooker and warm. Add the vegetables, place meat in the center and add ½ the beef stock and seasoning. Reserve the rest for topping up the liquid.
Cook on low, covered, for approximately 3 hours, occasionally stirring the bottom. The meat should be covered by liquid throughout cooking. Check the seasoning (you should taste the cumin in the liquid) and the meat for tenderness. Cook meat until tender and it starts to split and fall away from fork. Uncover and allow the liquid to reduce until it is just covering the meat. Lift the meat from the pot and remove bay leaf.
Cool liquid, and using an immersion blender, purée. Or, place mixture in a blender or food processor, purée and return to the pot.
Shred the meat with two forks and return the meat to sauce. Adjust seasoning. The meat may be removed from the sauce and bagged for freezing. Add more stock to the sauce, if required. It can be frozen separately for topping enchiladas.
Enchilada construction
- 1 pkg medium flour tortillas
- 2 c shredded elk meat in sauce
- ½ c sauce
- 1 c shredded cheese
- 1 sml can diced green chili peppers (optional)
Preheat oven to 350°F.
Take medium tortillas and warm in lightly oiled skillet for 15 seconds. Dip each lightly in sauce and clump shredded moistened meat in the centre. Add a little more sauce and half the cheese.
Roll up and place seam side down in square baking dish that will hold 4 enchiladas. Smooth over a thin layer of sauce and the rest of the cheese. Bake 30 minutes. Top with sour cream, green chili peppers and guacamole. Serve with refried beans and a salad.
Makes 4 enchiladas.
Big buck chili
“My chili has been a tradition in deer camp for many years. Due to the time required to prepare it, I usually make the chili at home ahead of time, then freeze it.” – Wade Brintnell
- ½ kg ground venison
- ½ kg ground elk
- ½ kg mild ground Italian sausage meat
- 650 mL beef broth
- 300 mL salt-free tomato sauce.
- 1 T onion powder
- 2 t garlic powder
- 1 T chili powder.
- 2 T light chili powder
- 3 t ground cumin
- 2 t brown sugar
- ¼ t black pepper
- ¼ t white pepper
- ¼ t cayenne pepper
- ½ beef bouillon cube
- ½ chicken bouillon cube
Brown meats, drain fat and put in a large heavy-bottomed pot. Add the onion, garlic and chili powder. Bring to a boil, then cover the pot and reduce heat to simmer for 1 hour. Add the light chili powder, 2 t ground cumin, brown sugar, peppers and bouillon cubes. Continue boiling with lid on for 30 minutes. Add the chipotle chili powder, the rest of the cumin and simmer for 15 minutes more.
Norm Suvan’s barbecued wild duck breast with gnocchi and gorgonzola sauce
Duck marinade
- 4 wild duck breast (4 Mallard or 6-8 Teal — you can also use domestic duck), skin on
- ½ c Dijon mustard
- 5 cloves garlic, minced
- splash olive oil
- fresh-cracked pepper
- splash soy sauce
- 10 shots Worcestershire sauce
- splash vodka
Pluck and clean duck breasts, keeping skin on. Mix all ingredients except for duck in a large bowl. Place duck breasts and the marinade mixture into a large Ziplock bag or container covered, for a minimum of 2 hours, but no more than 24 hours.
Sauce
- 2/3 c whipping cream
- ½ c crumbled Gorgonzola cheese
- juice of ½ lemon
- ¼ head radicchio, chopped
- 2 cloves garlic, finely minced
- basil leaves for garnish
Bring cream to simmer in heavy medium saucepan over medium heat.
Add Gorgonzola, whisking until melted. Add chopped radicchio and garlic. Simmer for a few minutes. Just before serving, whisk in lemon juice. Keep warm while you cook the duck.
Gnocchi
- 1 pkg gnocchi or make homemade
Cook and drain gnocchi while the duck breasts are resting. Cover with a kitchen towel and keep warm.
To cook duck breast:
Pre-heat barbecue to high and sear each breast skin side down for 20-30 seconds. Flip and sear other side for 20-30 seconds. Lower heat to medium and move duck breast skin side up to second rack of the grill — or turn off one side of the grill if no top rack is available and place duck breast on that side. Cook breasts for a few minutes, making sure not to go beyond medium-rare. Duck will be terrible if cooked more.
Duck has a tendency to flare up on the grill due to the fat content of the skin. Be prepared with a beer or spray bottle to extinguish flames. Remove duck to plate and cover with foil for 5 minutes.
To serve: add cooked, drained gnocchi to saucepan and toss gently to coat. Plate gnocchi and sauce. Slice each breast just before plating and place on top of gnocchi and sauce. Garnish plate with basil and a drizzle of your best extra virgin olive oil. Serve with your favourite red wine and best of friends.
Serves 4-6.