story and photos by Carmen Cheng
Exploring local restaurant gems is an educational, tasty and rewarding experience.
I am driven by the desire to learn about the culinary stories of other cultures. Sharing food is often the best gateway to experience and learn about different cultures, histories and even politics of an area. Exploring local restaurants or food markets has generally been the focus of my travel plans, but like many others my travels have waned during the pandemic. Instead, I have spent more time these past two years exploring our province—planning scenic adventures in our mountainous backyard, trying new-to-me restaurants in Calgary, or revisiting beloved restaurants that we hadn’t been to in a long while.
In today’s social media-centric world, it’s easy to get caught up in the Instagram photos and feel drawn to trying the latest trendy spot. But let’s not forget the established restaurants who may be flying under-the-radar of mainstream discussions. Exploring these (mostly) family-owned local gems is an educational, tasty, and rewarding experience.
Next time you’re in Calgary, check out the rich culinary stories of this city by visiting a few of my favourite under-the-radar restaurants.
Jhol Momos, Pathway Burgers and Momos
Pathway Burgers and Momos
The counter-style deli façade of Pathway Burgers and Momos is deceiving. Although this Nepalese family-owned restaurant does indeed serve burgers, wraps, and sandwiches, the less well-known Nepalese dishes are not to be missed. Nepalese chow mein and paneer chili appear on the menu, as do momos (dumplings) originating from Tibet which are a popular item at this restaurant. Customers can order momos filled with chicken, pork, or vegetables in a variety of preparation from steamed to pan fried. The chili momos are particularly flavourful—dumplings cooked in a chili sauce and then sauteed with spices. 2816 21 Street NE, 403-250-2238, pathwayyyc.ca.
San Dong Banjeom
Don’t expect to find bulgogi or Korean BBQ at this restaurant. Korean-style Chinese food is a cuisine all unto itself and San Dong Banjeom is one of the few places in Calgary that focuses on this style of food. Instead order the Jajangmyeon, noodles with freshly stir-fried black bean sauce. This bowl of noodles topped with thick savoury sauce made with pork, black bean, onion, and vegetables is beloved by customers. Also popular is Tangsuyuk, deep fried pork coated with a sweet and tangy sauce reminiscent of the Chinese sweet and sour pork dish. 3803 26 Avenue SW, 403-217-8855, sandongbanjeom.com.
Hue Thuong
Specializing in North Central Vietnamese cuisine, customers will notice some special dishes from the central region of Vietnam on Hue Thuong’s sizeable menu. The Banh Beo is the item to order! Little cups of steamed rice cakes are topped with shrimp, dried pork skin, and fried shallot and served with a fish sauce dressing. If you’re looking for a hot bowl of noodle soup, order the sate beef noodle soup or the creamy and coconutty peanut sate soup. Or try the Bun Bo Hue which is a spicy noodle soup with beef brisket, pork shank, shrimp sausage, and small cubes of blood pudding. 1830 52 Street SE, 403-474-2922, huethuongcalgary.com.
Little Lebanon
This family-owned business has its loyal customers and yet it still remains largely under the radar on social media. Their cheese pockets have won accolades in past years and their platters are generous with juicy grilled skewers of meat served with rice, salad, or garlic potatoes. The Shawarma Salad is a fresh take on the classic wrap, loaded with vegetables and pickles and customers can choose from either chicken or donair shawarma meat. Do order a container of their house-made baba ghannouge. 3515 17 Avenue, 403-217-0500, littlelebanonpita.com.
Keisan Donburi, Umami
Umami Noodle Bar
Umami Noodle Bar, which also goes by the name Maruju Sushi, has a varied menu ranging from ramen, rice bowls and a vast selection of sushi and sashimi. Make a reservation for their omakase dinner and let chef Dean Chan guide you through his masterful creations. The omakase menu changes frequently but always include luxurious and tantalizing ingredients. Past omakase features have included A5 Miyazaki wagyu beef grilled tableside, steamed crab, and melt-in-your-mouth bluefin o-toro sushi topped with Hokkaido uni and black truffles. 305 16 Avenue NW, 403-454-8383, umaminoodlebaryyc.com.
Oxtail, Krazy Jerk
Krazy Jerk
Krazy Jerk is a Jamaican restaurant on International Avenue. As the name suggests they serve up a killer jerk chicken that is spicy and flavourful. The Oxtail will have you returning again and again. Pieces of fatty oxtail are braised until very tender and served with rice and peas, coleslaw and a fried dumpling. Krazy Jerk’s menu also offers curry goat, ackee and saltfish, and other tasty Jamaican fare. 1715 52 Street SE, 403-691-1040, @krazy.jerk.
Banh Mi Nhu Y
Calgary has no shortage of banh mi shops. But picky banh mi connoisseurs know that it takes skill to build a crave-worthy banh mi with the perfect ratio of crusty bread, protein, pickled vegetables and herbs. A slather of traditional yellow mayo is a must. Check out the Banh Mi Dac Biet (special sub), Banh Mi Bo Sate (satay beef sub), and Banh Mi Thjt Nguoi (assorted cold cut sub) to smash your cravings. 3229 17 Avenue SE, 587-352-3330, banh-mi-nhu-y.com.
Spicy Garlic Wontons, Han’s Restaurant
Han’s Restaurant
This Chinatown restaurant is beloved by many Calgarians, yet it still manages to stay off the social media radar. Serving Taiwanese-Szechuan cuisine, customers can expect bold flavours and dishes that pack a spicy kick. Popular dishes include spicy garlic wontons, spicy kungpao chicken, and the fried eggplant with soy sauce. The sliced pork in garlic sauce is robust in flavour and well balanced with a touch of tang, sweetness and heat. 303 Centre Street SW, 403-514-0456.
Food writer Carmen Cheng comes from a long line of food lovers and notorious over-orderers. She loves learning about different cultures and will try pretty much any food because there’s no room for pretension. Carmen started her blog in 2011. When she’s not eating, cooking, or talking about food, Carmen works as a Diversity, Inclusion and Belonging leader in Calgary. @foodkarmablog.