Summer Wine

by Mary Bailey

Strawberries, cherries and
an angel’s kiss in spring
My summer wine is really
made from all these things
Take off your silver spurs and
help me pass the time
And I will give to you
summer wine
Ohh, summer wine

– Summer Wine, Nancy Sinatra
Lyrics by Lee Hazelwood

Can’t promise angel’s kisses, but can promise flavour in this collection of wines for alfresco lunches and dinner, after weekend gardening marathons, parties, or for no reason at all. Drink up!

the stick man arrives

Take one irrepressible Montrealer named Nathalie Bonhomme. Add family, a life in Spain, friends who make fabulous wine and what do you get?

El Petit Bonhomme Blanco (Rueda, Spain)
El Petit Bonhomme Blanco (Rueda, Spain)

El Petit Bonhomme Blanco
(Rueda, Spain) $15

Arriving just in time for summer is El Petit Bonhomme Blanco (DO Rueda). Made from Verdejo, just what we want to drink all season long. Crisp enough for the patio, yet with an attractive mouth-filling texture (from barrel-aging a portion of the wine on its lees, no less) that astonishes at this price. El Petit Bonhomme Tinto (DO Jumilla) is a juicy blend of Monastrell, Garnacha and Syrah with savoury dark berry flavours and herbal notes reminiscent of the wide open spaces of Jumilla. Equally at home in fine stemware as it is in a tumbler, expect to find the stick man everywhere this summer.

the summer of riesling

In 2008, Paul Grieco (a Canadian!) co-owner of the New York wine bars Terroir, decided to pour only Riesling that summer. He started a revolution. Imagine, people drinking refreshing white wine with noticeable acidity and with alcohol levels under 14 per cent. It’s a wine juggernaut — for more on that story visit summerofriesling.com.

Let’s have our very own Summer of Riesling…. right here, right now.

2012 Tantalus Riesling (Kelowna, British Columbia)
2012 Tantalus Riesling (Kelowna, British Columbia)
2012 Tantalus Riesling
(Kelowna, British Columbia) $25

Aromas hint of coconut and lime, flavours of ripe citrus, canteloupe and green apple, all wrapped up in an opulent mouth-filling texture — just lovely. The hallmark of Tantalus’ sublime Rieslings, the uncompromising ribbon of acidity that crosses the palate like a Japanese blade, is slightly less sharp in this bottling, the result of a warmer than usual vintage. This will be welcome news for some, allowing the wine to be enjoyed as an aperitif much sooner, like tonight. Like this? Try the 2010 Old Vines Riesling, $35.

2012 Bender Paulessen Riesling (Mosel, Germany)
2012 Bender Paulessen Riesling (Mosel, Germany)
2012 Bender Paulessen Riesling
(Mosel, Germany) $20

Softly smoky, slatey and floral notes in the aromas along with a honeyed richness in the mouth, and a bit less of the super-racy acidity that the Mosel is known for, puts this dry Riesling on track for casual sipping or with roast pork. Like this? Try the Kulina Riesling Zenit, $27.

2012 Cedar Creek Platinum Block Three Riesling
2012 Cedar Creek Platinum
Block Three Riesling
2012 Cedar Creek Platinum Block Three Riesling
(Kelowna, British Columbia) $25

Cedar Creek’s single vineyard offering, from a block of un-irrigated 21-year-old vines (old by Okanagan standards), harvested early, then treated to a go-slow ferment, adds up to a superbly elegant package. Light-bodied, racy, fragrant with citrus and limestone. Want more? Try the Cedar Creek Riesling, $18.

“ the first duty of a wine is to be red.”
– ancient wine proverb

Summer means barbecue. Nothing goes better with barbecued red meat than straight-up, full-bodied red wines with juicy fruit and ripe tannins.

Remember, meat loves tannin and tannin loves meat. Leave the soft, fruit-cordial Merlots and Malbecs to be enjoyed by the fireplace. This summer uncork wines with some structure to make the most of steaks and chops on the ’Q.

Vegetables, fish, chicken and pork belong on the barbecue too. Enjoy these with lighter reds.

Try to keep the alcohol levels under 14 per cent, as warmer weather can make high alcohol wines taste harsh and unbalanced. And don’t be afraid to put your reds in the refrigerator for 10-20 minutes before serving.

2009 Tinhorn 2 Bench Red  (South Okanagan, British Columbia)
2009 Tinhorn 2 Bench Red
(South Okanagan, British Columbia)

2009 Tinhorn 2 Bench Red
(South Okanagan, British Columbia) $30

Hard to beat this Bordeaux blend (Cab Sauv, Cab Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot) from Sandra Oldfield. It’s full-bodied, elegant, well-balanced, with great fruit and spot-on acidity; nice savourygamey flavours with a bit of smoke and herbs on the nose.

2009 Mas Doix Les Crestes (Priorat, Spain)
2009 Mas Doix Les Crestes
(Priorat, Spain)

2009 Mas Doix Les Crestes
(Priorat, Spain) $35

The key to Priorat is altitude, vine age, and the slate soil called licorella. Mas Doix vineyards are over 400 metres high, and the youngest vines in Les Crestes are at least 20 years old. A bit of Syrah provides some elegance and structure; Carignan brings in some bottom like a bass guitar, and together they keep the happy, luscious red fruit exuberance of ripe Garnacha from spilling out all over (even wine needs Spanx sometimes). Big wine lovers, giddyup! Also try Mas Doix Salenques, $60.

2006 Finco El Puig (Priorat, Spain)
2006 Finco El Puig
(Priorat, Spain)

2006 Finco El Puig
(Priorat, Spain) $35

Love the fennel, mineral and wild thyme aromas and flavours of El Puig, especially partnered with its rich fruit and round, well-modulated tannins. A delicious blend of Garnacha, Carignan and Syrah as well, delicious with ribs or juicy burgers.

2010 Braida Monferrato Rosso Il Bacialè (Piedmont, Italy)
2010 Braida Monferrato Rosso Il Bacialè
(Piedmont, Italy)

2010 Braida Monferrato Rosso Il Bacialè
(Piedmont, Italy) $34

Mostly Barbera blended with Pinot Nero, Cab and Merlot. We don’t see a lot of Barbera here, which is a shame, as the grape’s upfront ease and drinkability make it a winner. There’s no grape better to have with red-sauced pasta, salumi or dishes like eggplant parmigiana. $34.

2008 Gran Vino de Pago Arinzano (Navarra, Spain)
2008 Gran Vino de Pago Arinzano
(Navarra, Spain)

2008 Gran Vino de Pago Arinzano
(Navarra, Spain) $85

Vino de Pago is a relatively new designation for Spanish wine, roughly equivalent to grand cru status, meaning the grapes from certain vineyard sites are recognized as having special attributes and are the best in the region. There are only 13 in all of Spain. Pago de Arinzano nudges the Pyrenees growing mostly Tempranillo with some Merlot. The Gran Vino: chewy-textured and supple, with good weight mid-palate; tasting of layers of cassis and other black fruit, with subtle cedar and baking spice flavours. The long finish deserves to be savoured, slowly, with roast lamb, bison tenderloin, or the best Alberta striploin under the stars. Decant for a few hours if drinking tonight, you could cellar for another 15 years. Looking for something a little more casual? Try 2008 Arinzano La Casona, $40.

2010 Felton Road, Bannockburn Pinot Noir (Central Otago, New Zealand)
2010 Felton Road, Bannockburn Pinot Noir
(Central Otago, New Zealand)

2010 Felton Road, Bannockburn Pinot Noir
(Central Otago, New Zealand) $55

Pinot Noir is the go-to summer wine for lovers of salmon on the grill. Felton Road’s Bannockburn has such impeccable balance of fruit, minerality, tannins and alcohol; elegant with a remarkable purity and depth of flavour. Felton Road, like many Central Otago Pinots, may be hard to find — desired all over the world, Canada gets a few cases only. When you see it, grab it! Drink with grilled salmon, cedar planked or not. Also, Felton Road’s zingy Riesling, $40.

2011 Massimago Valpolicella (Veneto, Italy)
2011 Massimago Valpolicella
(Veneto, Italy)

2011 Massimago Valpolicella
(Veneto, Italy) $20

Richly aromatic — think ripe strawberries drizzled with balsamic with hints of black pepper and mint — with a freshness that makes it eminently suitable for summer drinking. Like this? Try Massimago Valpolicella Superiore, $34.

2011 Laurent Martray Brouilly Vieilles Vignes
2011 Laurent Martray Brouilly Vieilles Vignes

2011 Laurent Martray Brouilly Vieilles Vignes
(Beaujolais, France) $30

Packed with Gamay’s characteristic cherries and clay aromas, fresh and fruity flavours with hints of spice and bacon and a velvety texture; what’s not to like? Cru Beaujolais is especially delicious with barbecue duck; pick one up in Chinatown for quick Friday night dinners.

real men (and women) drink pink

Rosé is the quintessential summertime drop, cool and refreshing, yet with a bit more structure, making many rosé suitable to drink right through dinner. Pinks, due to their low tannin and high fruit factor, can often take the heat found in south Asian foods like tandoori chicken.

The good way to make pink wine: let the juice sit on the skins for a bit, allowing the juice to pick up some colour, tannin and complexity. The not-so-good way? Blend red with white or add food colouring.

Old world producers overwhelmingly prefer the old-fashioned way and are forbidden by law to blend red with white (except in Champagne, a whole other story). Quality new world producers choose the more natural methods. Old world rosés are generally made from Grenache (called Garnacha in Spain). In new world rosés, anything goes and here’s two that go really well.

2012 Cedar Creek Rosé Pinot Noir (Kelowna, British Columbia)
2012 Cedar Creek Rosé
Pinot Noir (Kelowna, British Columbia)

2012 Cedar Creek Rosé
Pinot Noir (Kelowna, British Columbia) $20

Expect zesty fresh flavours, with luscious strawberry aromas and a hint of earthy minerality along with a pleasing tension between fruit and acidity. This Cedar Creek bottling could take you through summer right to Thanksgiving turkey. Drink with cold meats, smoked salmon, lawn chair.

2012 Hester Creek Rosé Cabernet Franc (South Okanagan, British Columbia)
2012 Hester Creek Rosé Cabernet Franc
(South Okanagan, British Columbia)

2012 Hester Creek Rosé Cabernet Franc
(South Okanagan, British Columbia) $20

This gentle coral-coloured offering has attractive aromas of strawberries, cherries, with a pleasing hit of green leaf and spice in the mouth as well. Medium-bodied, dry, well-balanced acidity, moderate-ish alcohol, and a crisp finish, very fresh. Nominated for ‘fridge door wine of summer 2013.’

don’t forget the bubbles

Prosecco has become shorthand for anything with bubbles. If you plan to make punch, or mix with oj, any old prosecco (or bubble for that matter) will do. For the ultimate drinking experience look for these words on the label: Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG. This tells you the wine comes from vines grown in the heart of the region, and this, dear reader, is where the most characterful and delicious wines come from.

Ruggeri Prosecco Giall’oro Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Extra Dry (Italy)
Ruggeri Prosecco Giall’oro Valdobbiadene Prosecco
Superiore Extra Dry (Italy)

Ruggeri Prosecco Giall’oro Valdobbiadene Prosecco
Superiore Extra Dry (Italy) $28

Ruggeri’s Gold Label is delicate and fruity on the nose and palate with a fine persistent bubble that doesn’t disappear with the second glass. Want to explore? Ruggeri Giustino B spends three months on the lees, which contributes to its richer, more complex taste. $38.