Alberta Beverage Awards 2014

by Mary Bailey

The Alberta Beverage Awards, sponsored by Calgary’s Culinaire Magazine, are becoming an important source of accolades for wines, spirits and beer sold in the province. The home-grown competition, only two years old, had over 500 wines entered this year, with wines from 80 grapes from 17 different countries, and nearly 200 beer and spirits.

“We were thrilled by the range and quality of the entries, and hope that you enjoy them as well,” said Tom Firth, competition director.

Erin Chipchura, sommelier, Co-op wines, myself, and Chuck Elves from Three Boars Eatery were invited to judge, rounding out the Calgary-based group of somms, educators, and retailers. It’s a massive undertaking. Several members of the wine community pitch in to run the back room where every beverage is opened, tasted for faults, then poured for the judges.

Did I taste all 500 wines? It felt like that was so, but no, we blind tasted several wines in several flights over two days. Sometimes, unbeknownst to the table, we tasted the same wines twice (and were happy to realize it, not as easy as it sounds).

Here are the best in class category winners, followed by judges’ comments.

Sparkling wine

Champagne H. Blin NV Brut Champagne, France, $34 Relatively new to the Alberta market, the NV champagne from H. Blin was the top scorer here. Toasty notes with bright fruits, mineral presence, and a long, lean finish. – Erica Tocco, wine director, Vin Room

Champagne H. Blin NV Brut

White Wines

White Single Vintage 2012 Graf von Schonborn Estate Weisser Burgunder, Franken, Germany, $18. This is 100 percent Pinot Blanc from Germany (more than just good Riesling comes from Germany), judges loved the texture of this wine with its good concentration of fruit, mineral, and colour. – Kim Spence, national beverage director Moxie’s and Chop Steakhouse	2012 Graf von Schonborn Estate Weisser Burgunder
Riesling 2012 St. Urbans-hof Estate Old Vines Riesling, Mosel, Germany, $14. Germany reigns supreme with this captivating and pretty example of riesling. Crisp acidity, tart fruits, and excellent minerality from start to finish. – Matt Browman, operations manager, Highlander Wines and Spirits	2012 St. Urbans-hof Estate Old Vines Riesling
Pinot Gris/Pinot Grigio 2013 Poplar Grove Pinot Gris, Okanagan Valley, Canada, $14 The top Gris in the 2013 Alberta Beverage Awards as well as this year’s competition, judges loved the balance of fruit and texture from Poplar Grove. – Erica Tocco	2013 Poplar Grove Pinot Gris
Sauvignon Blanc 2012 J. Lohr Carol’s Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, Napa, California, $20 From the warm St. Helena district of the Napa Valley comes this creamy-textured, complex Sauvignon displaying green gooseberry, grapefruit, and passion fruit. – Alex Good, sommelier, Merlo Vinoteca	2012 J. Lohr Carol’s Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc
Chardonnay 2012 Poplar Grove Chardonnay, Okanagan Valley, Canada, $15 Tropical fruits led the way here, with stone fruit, melon, and citrus and a long, almost delicate finish. – Jackie Cooke owner/sommelier Avec Bistro	2012 Poplar Grove Chardonnay
Tied with 2011 Lake Breeze Seven Poplars Chardonnay, Okanagan Valley, Canada, $22 Citric and crisp with lemon curd and lemon pie notes along with yellow apple and a touch of vanilla. Fresh and clean, a nice glass. – Tom Firth, Cowtown	2011 Lake Breeze Seven Poplars Chardonnay

Red Wines

Pinot Noir 2011 Cloudy Bay Pinot Noir Marlborough, New Zealand, $32 Lush and juicy, it has earthiness and dried herbs on the nose with spicy red fruit on the palate. An excellent accessible wine that bridges the gap between the Old and New world. – Darren Fabian, sommelier Alloy Restaurant and Candela	2011 Cloudy Bay Pinot Noir Marlborough
Malbec 2013 Tilia Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina, $10 The category champion Tilia did a lovely job highlighting Malbec’s floral, dark fruit, and refreshing acid qualities. – Brad Royale, wine director, Canadian Rocky Mountain Resorts	2013 Tilia Malbec
Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Cameron Hughes CAM Collection Lake Country Cabernet Sauvignon, Lake Country, California, $23 All the cedar, cherry, and cassis flavours one could want with firm tannins, spice box, and tobacco. Great cab all around. – Nathalie Gosselin, chief experience director, Vine Styles	2012 Cameron Hughes CAM Collection Lake Country Cabernet Sauvignon
Bordeaux blends 2009 Mascota Vineyards Unanime, Argentina, $12 Tight and full-flavoured with blueberries, cherry, and perfume notes. Tannins are full, but balanced against the juicy fruits. – Tom Firth	2009 Mascota Vineyards Unanime
Syrah/Shiraz 2012 Harcourt Valley Vineyards-Heathcote Shiraz, Australia, $22 Bursting with blackberries and black pepper, dried herb, and violets, judges loved the fine balance and long finish from this delicious shiraz. – Tom Firth	2012 Harcourt Valley Vineyards-Heathcote Shiraz
Rhone Blends 2012 Yalumba The Strapper GSM, Australia, $172 A blend of Grenache, Shiraz, and Mataro to pull out the best of big fruit, earth, and spice. Tasty and quaffable. – Jackie Cooke	2012 Yalumba The Strapper
Red Single Varietal 2011 Poplar Grove Cabernet Franc, Okanagan Valley, Canada, $30 Cabernet franc is making waves in the Okanagan with well-made examples popping up all over. Look for cherry fruits, pepper, perfume, and a decent tannin presence. Poplar Grove’s is drinking very well now. – Matt Browman	2011 Poplar Grove Cabernet Franc
Other Red Blends 2012 Casillero Del Diablo Devil’s Red, Chile, $13 This gem, Syrah with Carmenere and Cabernet sauvignon, has big fruits with plenty of herb and spice to balance the tannins. Great for the barbecue or chilling out on a cooler evening. – Tom Firth	2012 Casillero Del Diablo
Merlot 2010 Poplar Grove Merlot, Okanagan Valley, Canada, $20 Bursting with dark fruits, spice, and tannin, this is a new classic from the Okanagan. Drinking well now and can also improve over two –five plus years. – Erin Chipchura, sommelier Co-op Edmonton	2010 Poplar Grove Merlot
Rose 2013 Chapoutier Tavel Beaurevoir, Rhone, France, $19 The wine has the deeper ruby colour typical of Tavel, aromas of pepper and ripe cherry, tasting of red stone fruits, with fresh acidity and a hint of tannic structure. The Beaurevoir is delicious with game birds such as duck or pheasant, Thanksgiving turkey or serve with a charcuterie board. – Mary Bailey	2013 Chapoutier Tavel Beaurevoir
2010 Torres Gran Coronas, Spain, $15 Great varietal character of cherry and cedar with cassis and tobacco. The addition of a little Tempranillo gives it a little added complexity.– Tom Firth	2010 Torres Gran Coronas

Best of Italy

Rose 2010 Talamonti Tre Saggi Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Abruzzo, Italy, $13 A great bottle from Abruzzo packed with sour cherry and some firm-ish tannins. With lush floral tones and a bit of earthiness, it shines with game meats or cheese. – Tom Firth	2010 Talamonti Tre Saggi Montepulciano d’Abruzzo
Tied with 2010 Antinori Peppoli Chianti Classico DOCG, Tuscany, Italy, $18 Here’s a wine that, vintage over vintage, has stood the test of time and has delivered authenticity and quality year after year. It’s a great buy in Tuscan Sangiovese showing bright fruit, spice, cedar, dark cocoa, and dusty tannins. – Alex Good	2010 Antinori Peppoli Chianti Classico DOCG

Fruit and Honey-based Wines

Fieldstone Strawberry-Rhubarb Fruit Wine NV, Alberta, Canada, $18 The sweetness of the strawberry is balanced by the rhubarb with bright, clean flavours start to finish. Serve chilled on the deck or patio for best results. – Tom Firth

Fieldstone Strawberry-Rhubarb Fruit Wine NV

Fortified Wines

Rubin Garling Stradivari Red Dessert Wine NV, Ciumai, Moldova, $21 There was no denying the rich fruit, sweet and spice, and floral/herb characters, and above all, this wine had some excellent balance. – Tom Firth

Rubin Garling Stradivari Red Dessert Wine NV

Dessert and Sweet Wines

2012 Mission Hill Family Estate Reserve Riesling Icewine, Okanagan Valley, Canada, $50 I still believe that Riesling makes the best icewine and this is an elegant and noteworthy example. Bright citrus and stone fruits, all the sweetness of icewine adding texture and hitting all those sweet spots in the mouth, and some excellent acids bring balance. Delicious. – Tom Firth

2012 Mission Hill Family Estate Reserve Riesling Icewine

Where to buy: These wines are available at better wine shops across the province. If out of stock your merchant would be happy to recommend a similar wine. All prices are approximate.