by Mary Bailey
Rita and Rudolf Trossen are wonderful small producers in Kinhein-Kindel (middle-Mosel). They have been biodynamic since 1978. We met them on a trip to the Mosel not so long ago, and the wines are now available in Alberta via the small but mighty import agency Garneau Block. So happy about that. The wines all share a sense of vitality and clarity and appropriate alcohol (no 15 per cent ABV bruisers here). The Trossecco Pet Nat is fun and lively, slightly sweet, ideal for Prosecco lovers. The Purellus Pur’us (Langfuhr vineyard, grey slate) is a more serious bubble, with deep and vibrant flavours of honey and apple. It’s a gorgeous rosy colour too. There are several Riesling in this shipment including the sprightly Schieferblume (flower of the slate), a blend of four different vineyards and the single vineyard Madonna Pur’us, glorious.
Let’s not forget the reds. The Trossen Rot (Dornfelder and Pinot Noir) is a generous wine, suitable for hearty dishes. The Pinot Noir Pur’us is a silky-textured, gentle and delicious Pinot. This vintage is made by carbonic maceration (grapes are not crushed, the initial fermentation happens within the grape) allowing for superb flavours and balanced acidity. All the wines are fermented naturally and the Pur’us wines have no intervention at all, no sulphur added, and are unfined and unfiltered. Check out the full selection and find your favourites at Color de Vino, Highlands Liquor, 121 Jasper Liquor and other fine wine shops; in Calgary at Bricks Wine, Kensington Wine Market and Vine Arts. More about the Trossens: thetomato.ca.
The Hungarian grapes Furmint, Hárslevelű and the red Kadarka (sometimes called Gamza) not well known yet make some wonderful wines you will want to get to know, from Zsirai, a small sustainable producer new to our market. All the wines are well priced, actually, for the quality are bargains, especially the dessert wines. The Tokaji Furmint is fragrant with honey and lemon zest, has a lovely beeswaxy texture, a slightly salty, lemony character and a long finish. Chardonnay lovers, give this wine a try. The Tokaji Hárslevelű is a little spicy, meatier, with some weight and lots of freshness. The Villányi Múzsa Kadarka is a fetching cherry colour, super fresh. Gamay-ish aroma, has presence.
Then there are the sweet wines. The Tokaj region has long been known as the home of incredibly luscious, long-lasting sweet wines painstakingly made by hand. The beauty of these dessert wines lies in their balance. Although they are decadently sweet, they are always fresh in the mouth due to the naturally high acidity. The 2012 Tokaji Szamorodni has beautifully complex spice notes, well-integrated sweetness and a finish that goes on for minutes. Have this with the leftover Christmas cake. The Aszu category of Tokaj wines have grapes affected by noble rot added to the must, giving the the wines even more complex and unique flavours. They are rare wines and last for decades. The 2009 Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos is heady, yet the freshness is astounding.
Prosecco you know. But do you know Franciacorta? Italy’s answer to Champagne? They are high-quality traditional sparkling wines (made from Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and some Pinot Blanc is allowed) from a small hilly region in Lombardia. Barone Pizzoni, one of the best producers in the region, grow their grapes organically and use sustainable practices. The Barone Franciacorta wines were featured in Bar Bricco’s NYE Box. New to Alberta is the Brut Nature. The blend of Pinot and Chardonnay grown on limestone-rich soil has no dosage. It has spent up to 40 month on the lees which results in a bone dry, elegant wine, structured, with a long finish. The beautiful acidity contributes to the freshness in the mouth. Just a delicious wine. If you are a lover of bubbles this is must try.
Solo cocktails for solo times. Since we are spending so much time alone, it’s individual cocktails to the rescue. And the Fort Distillery make delicious bottled cocktails. There are five available, two made with the Fort’s craft vodka: the Shaft (Alberta honey and cold brew coffee) and the Cosmo (BC raspberries, cranberries, citrus). The Daiquiri is made with the Fort’s cane spirit, lime and sugar. And they have two Old Fashioneds: the Classic, with bourbon, brown sugar, aromatic bitters and orange and the Maple Old Fashioned with Fort’s gin, aromatic bitters and Ontario maple syrup. Shake and pour over ice, and it’s done. No muss no fuss. Recycle the glass bottle and aluminum cap. Available at Color de Vino, Sherbrooke and other fine shops.
All prices are approximate. Not all wines and spirits in all shops.