Back to Louise

Rediscover an old favourite with a new attitude—Chateau Lake Louise

by Mary Bailey
photos by Mary Bailey unless otherwise credited

After a year and half cooped up like everyone else, with zero travel plans, it was time to go somewhere. The idea? Keep it in the province and visit a place I love, Lake Louise.

It’s 32 degrees and smoky. We can’t see the tops of any peaks as we drive along Hwy 11 to the Icefields Parkway. Things at Louise are not looking or smelling much better. But the welcome is warm, our room at Chateau Lake Louise is spacious and we’re ready for a drink overlooking the lake.

As we settle into the Fairview Bar, loving the view and the bold Richardson’s ground squirrels (which I thought were baby marmots, not!) we are curious about the new executive chef, Nicholas Issel.

He arrived in the spring when plans for re-opening were very much in the air. This challenge was sizeable. How to infuse a venerable property with timely culinary ideas in a time of global uncertainty, fears of breakouts and staff and supply shortages?

Chef Issel’s experience is as a changemaker (or ‘a revamper,’ he says). His resumé includes Shangri La properties in Australia, Vancouver and Singapore, a town known for its spectacular cuisine, and Manila to oversee the culinary revamp of a classic property. Then it was back to Vancouver for a stint at a superb hotel known for conventions. Come March 2020, the world shuts down. Come March 2021, chef Issel makes the move to the Rockies. We are eager to see what he has been able to do in the short time he’s been here.

For chef Issel, it’s been a waiting game. He had to create menus and ramp up in a matter of weeks. “We had so much uncertainty—we didn’t know when we could open. Imagine what it was like for farmers and suppliers—how much do we need? Every week it’s something different we are out of.

“In Singapore everything is imported, especially meat. Here, we are making relationships with a lot of small farms.” (The beef in the dining rooms is from Brant Lake, for example and the pork is from Broek Pork Acres).

“We’re trying to bring in items from the Okanagan to can and to pickle—which we’ll use into December. Then we’ll go with standard winter fare.”
I ask chef about the staff shortages that restaurant and hospitality businesses are experiencing.

“The talent pool has dried up,” he says. “As an industry, we weren’t developing younger people in the last two years, or, they found other things to do. Kids in culinary school weren’t really in culinary school. So if I say we have 600 covers for lunch, can they do it? It’s triage right now, if we open this, does it affect that.” (When we were there in July, the hotel wasn’t fully open due to staffing shortages.)

“We have a long way to go with the rebuilding of the team, but we have a good core,” says chef. “You have to dig to find the right people, it’s going to take a good four or five months.

“We are working towards something great while being honest about our capabilities. We need to push the envelope, and we have to take good care of our people. We don’t want to lose good people who will say it’s just too much.”

“My goal is to have really great food, not just good food. We want to set tends not follow them. This hotel has such a tradition, it’s my responsibility, to pass the torch, bringing everything I’ve learned and bring it here.”

Dinner in the Fairview Restaurant doesn’t disappoint. I have a vague memory of a stuffy, old-school hotel dining room—not anymore. The look is contemporary, the service smooth and welcoming and the menu adventurous, with a clever blend of steak house faves and modern dishes—West Coast seafood meets Alberta ranches with plenty of tasty sides. It’s a celebratory menu for big occasions with a well-considered wine list to suit.

The plan for the next day: get up at 4:15am to see the sunrise at Moraine Lake. What was I thinking, a shirt and a pair of pants is not enough clothing for a before dawn jaunt. (Ditto the decision to have that second glass of Taittinger at dinner last night. Or was it that delish mezcal cocktail?) Being one of the most popular viewpoints in the Rockies, it made sense to go before the crowds. The walk along the lake rewarded with a view of (almost) all ten peaks and there was great interpretive signage. And it was fun to watch some hardy souls blow up their paddleboards. But cold, too cold. I headed back to the Chateau’s shuttle the minute I could.

That night came the reward. The Walliser Stube has long been one of my favourite places to dine in Lake Louise; the sense of history and cozy atmosphere (and the view of course) have always made it feel very special. Yes, you can have fondue and you should, it’s that good. You can also order mains that don’t involve melted cheese, such as striploin, pork schnitzel, harissa risotto, or halibut (in season) and classic Swiss desserts.

Dinners like these make hikes essential. A short jaunt up to the Fairview Lookout will get your heart pumping, the views alone make it worth it. Not as crowded as the hike to the Lake Agnes Tea House, but, do that anyway, as it’s fun and, when we were there, very social. (So many travelers from all across the country enjoying a dream vacation. All of them were on the hike to the tea house.) Introverts may prefer the hike to Saddleback, a bit longer and steeper with great views (or so I’m told, I went up Fairview while my companions went on to Saddleback with our expert, and funny, guide, Mike Vincent).

We picked up muesli or a muffin and coffee before the hikes every morning at the Guide’s Pantry. (Love that the Guide’s consider gin and tonic to be a pantry staple). On our last day, we decided to splurge on breakfast at the Poppy Brasserie. Good move. Several small plates and toothsome mains, several of which are gluten free or vegetarian and a halal selection—there is even a chicken congee bowl. Lavish, delicious, amazing bacon. As we enjoyed breakfast by the gracious flower beds that surround the Chateau, many adorable Clark’s nutcrackers wanted to share in our bounty, but we were able to fob them off. (I’ve been hearing ‘don’t feed the wildlife’ since I was a young ‘un.)

It was crowded this summer, exploring Lake Louise. For us lucky Albertans, accustomed to having these treasures to ourselves, fall and winter is a great time to go. You might even be able to park at Moraine Lake.