by Mary Bailey
The Black Tot Finest Caribbean is a nod to the Naval rum tradition and the most accessible Black Tot rum in price and availability. The blend of Barbados, Guyana and high ester Jamaican pot still rum is aged in ex-bourbon casks. The result? A supremely drinkable rum— warm, spicy rather than sweet, with the chocolate, toffee, black pepper and dried mango notes freshened by orange citrus and lime leaf. Black Tot refers to the last time sailors were given a daily rum ration—July 31, 1970 for British sailors and March 30, 1972 for Canada’s Royal Navy—the end of a naval tradition that began in 1771. “Navy rum was always a multi- county blend. Their main concern was finding four million gallons of rum per year,” said Black Tot educator, Mitch Wilson in a colourful Zoom presentation.
Here are the new gins in town by Cambridge Distillery, co-founded by William Lowe, master distiller and master of wine. The Japanese Gin translates the flavours of sansho pepper, toasted white sesame and shisho leaf with beautiful subtlety. Light and elegant, with long-lasting flavours. Drink neat or in a delicate Japanese martini. Find at Chateau Louis and Liquor Select. The Cambridge Dry features lovely rose, basil and rosemary, with lemon verbena freshness and a classic juniper core, equally at home in a Negroni, G&T or martini. At Bar Bricco, Chateau Louis, Liquor Select and Vines in Riverbend. The Truffle Gin made with white Alba truffles is crazy. The spectacular nose along with complex earthy, vegetal, juniper and mushroomy notes is radical. A contemplative gin, ideal as a digestive. Find at Campbell Liquor, Chateau Louis, Color de Vino, Crestwood, Century Park Cellars, Devines, Glenora, Sommelier Select and the Whisky Drop.
New this spring is Spanish producer De Moya. Founder Yves Laurijssens and his winemaking team looked for old, almost forgotten, vineyards at altitude to explore the native varietals of Valencia—Bobal, Monastrell and Merseguera. The Bobal makes silky-textured, fruity (think raspberry, black cherries), pleasurable wines, with fresh acidity. De Moya has two on offer, the Maria and Justina, as well as the Gloria Monastrell and Tibó Rosado, which we will be drinking all summer. The Tibo Mersegruera is a blend with 20 per cent Muscat à Petits Grains and tastes delicious with seafood. These wines are terrific value too, coming in under $25. Find at Boudreau Wines, City Cellars, Color de Vino, Sherbrooke and other fine wine shops.
Darryl Brooker, Okanagan Crush Pad
Talking with wine legend Darryl Brooker about his recent move to Okanagan Crush Pad became a master class in smoke taint. “None of us had worked with smoke taint before 2015,” he said. “Now we are aware of it and it’s been a steep learning curve. We discovered it absorbs through the leaf, then deposits into the skin and grapes. Every variety takes up the smoke in a different way. It depends on the style of the wine too. White wine and rose are not affected. You have to treat the wines differently—less contact with lees, less time on skins. A Pinot Noir couldn’t handle it, but bigger more robust wines can.
“Not everyone can detect smoke taint, there is a sensory threshold, and now there are tests for it and specialized equipment. As well, smoke taint is bound and doesn’t express itself until three or four months have passed.”
His final word on the vintage? “Tough season all round, but I’m quite impressed with the wines.”