Feeding People

by Lorena D. Johnson

Volunteers at last year’s Folk Fest. All photos: Anne Marie Resta, Edmonton Folk Music Festival
Volunteers at last year’s Folk Fest.
All photos: Anne Marie Resta, Edmonton Folk Music Festival

Being a volunteer has never sounded so sweet… Or savoury.

More than 3,000 volunteers, artists, and staff are lined up for the 2010 Edmonton Folk Festival. And they need to be fed.

While such world-class talent as Van Morrison and Jimmy Rankin is undoubtedly the main draw, it doesn’t hurt to have talented kitchen crews preparing meals for those behind the scenes, as well as those on stage.

“If you are fed well, you can concentrate on getting your job done,” says Lynette Maurice, a volunteer who’s worked almost every festival since its inception three decades ago. “I would do anything because they put so much time and consideration into looking after me.”

That’s music to the ears of Stephane Levesque, the Folk Fest’s second-year kitchen manager. Dishes like Alberta buffalo sausage in saskatoon berry sauce, spring rolls with rhubarb chutney, and red snapper chipotle tacos with warm lime coriander red slaw tempted his diners last year.

Levesque’s largest previous catering job was a wedding for 180.

When I first met the people at the folk fest I told them: ‘Guys, I’ve never cooked for 3,000 people.’ Their response: “Nobody has cooked for 3,000 people.”

Levesque credits his team of 200 kitchen volunteers and a handful of staff for making his first year run smoothly. “The volunteers are amazing. Some have no previous kitchen experience but all of them love food.”

Levesque started thinking about his 2010 world rustic menu in December drawing from his offseason cooking experiences in resorts and forestry camps. He’s currently perfecting a Polish pasta called kopusta tasta made with sauerkraut and caramelized onions to serve alongside the popular chicken and apple sausage served at last year’s Sunday brunch. A red curry chicken and pineapple potpie is also under consideration.

Elk from Shooting Star Ranch near New Sarepta and bison from Kickin’ Ash Buffalo in St. Albert will be served with fresh produce such as saskatoons from Riverbend Gardens. He’ll look to British Columbia for wild smoked salmon to star in his version of niçoise salad and wild mushrooms to complement the bison sausage. Any raw ingredients that can’t be returned to suppliers are donated to organizations such as the Mustard Seed.

“I’m trying to go local but it’s hard to go fully local when you’re the biggest mobile kitchen in the country. We’re limited in time and space. ”Timesavers such as peeled and diced onions are purchased from larger food suppliers to help lessen the workload. It’s a far cry from the days when volunteers would make zucchini loaves at home and donate their homegrown tomatoes to help out, recalled Maurice.

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Today, the kitchen (a giant tent erected over a 7,000 square foot wooden floor) is rockin’ long before the bands fire up. A 40-gallon steam kettle, three floor gas burners, four large convection ovens (holding 32 baking sheets), and a steamer oven help get meals to the table twice a day. Levesque stays on track by preparing sauces, condiments, and other items in advance. Still, a commercial freezer, fridge, and dry goods storage are replenished daily. “It’s not your average cooking experience,” said Elisa Zenari, Long-time volunteer Tom Picard agrees logistics are a constant challenge. One year, 1,700 pieces of fresh chicken thighs were nearly ruined by a broken-down refrigerator. The problem was discovered, the poultry rescued, and the chicken with parmesan and tarragon went ahead. “Now that,” he said, “was a memorable meal.”

Red Snapper Chipotle Tacos with Warm Lime Coriander Red Slaw

3,000 large hard tacos
650 lb red snapper fillet
200 lb red cabbage, shredded and braised
125 lb onion
18 c olive oil
4 l lime juice
4 c chipotle seasoning
12 c ground coriander
6 lb crushed garlic
4 c oregano
16 c fresh cilantro, chopped
20 lb carrots, julienned
3 c sea salt
2 c black pepper

Serves 3000.

Caribbean Salad

300 lb green leaf lettuce
200 lb romaine lettuce
40 lb green onion, chopped
120 lb pears
40 lb frozen mangoes
22 l 35 per cent cream
16 l sour cream
½ c cumin
1 case sliced almonds, lightly roasted
Salt and pepper to taste

Serves 1000.

Edmonton-born writer Lorena D. Johnson admits she knows more about forks than folk, but she’s eager to listen. assistant kitchen manager.