“There is no there there.”
– Gertrude Stein
Stein was referring to her hometown of Oakland, California, but she could have been talking about one of Edmonton’s suburbs like, say, Sherwood Park. Sorry, Parkers (Sherwoodians? Parkites?), I’ve worked in rival St. Albert for over twenty years and know the rhetoric: Sherwood Park isn’t a city, it’s a hamlet; there’s no downtown, etc. It is (or should be) just good-natured rivalry. Here’s the reality: both are great communities, full of interesting people living fulfilling lives. But in our polarized post-pandemic world, sometimes city people, myself included, are guilty of believing the stereotypes about the suburbs and the bedroom communities around Edmonton.
Stereotypes are quickly dispelled when we get out of our bubbles and talk to real people. This is where craft beer comes in. Once upon a time craft beer was perceived to be only for urban hipsters and foodies. Today craft beer is for everyone. And a real strength of Alberta craft beer comes from the breweries in small towns across the province. These breweries are deeply connected to their communities, supporting them and, in turn, being supported by them.
Growing up in Spruce Grove, Amelia Gillett has seen it grow from a small rural town to today’s bustling suburban city of almost 40,000 people. Amelia is the general manager of RavenWolf Brewing in Spruce Grove, which is owned by her parents Jan and Randal Gillett. Jan is a community builder, who founded the Parkland Pregnancy Support Centre and serves as a Spruce Grove city councillor. Randal retired in 2020 after 32 years with Spruceland Millworks and was urged by his wife and three daughters to turn his homebrewing hobby into a real brewery.
Community is at the core of what they want to do. “This community has given so much to us. We want to give back to the community that was there for us, for our family,” says Amelia. And the community really has been there for RavenWolf. The brewery and taproom opened April 8, 2021. One day later the Province ordered taprooms to move to patio-only service. The Gilletts had focussed all their efforts on creating a first-rate indoor taproom and had no patio. But a callout to the community resulted in people donating enough tables and chairs for RavenWolf to open a makeshift patio.
Spruce Grove may not be a small town anymore but that caring, small-town spirit continues.
Like many small town craft breweries, RavenWolf is a hidden gem that surprises visitors. Located in a nondescript industrial strip mall, once inside the front door you’re in a different world. Amelia says they were going for a British steampunk vibe, evoking a Victorian era English pub. There are no TVs at RavenWolf. They want people focussed on each other, not on screens. “It’s about people connecting with each other, getting back to a simpler way of life where you are talking to the people beside you, or at the next table,” says Amanda. A feeling of community, a sense of belonging, of people knowing their neighbours is what we all want—city people, rural people, suburban people.
At their best, craft breweries build community by bringing people together. This summer let’s leave our bubbles, head down the street, out to the burbs or further afield and share a pint with our fellow humans.
Burbs beer six pack
Take a summer daytrip. Travel out beyond the Henday to visit six superb craft breweries.
Click images to zoom
70 Acre Bossman Lager, Sherwood Park
A nice day? Hit up 70 Acre and its impressive 100-seat taproom or sunny patio, try a flight of their beers plus a Neapolitan style pizza and then head to a show over at Sherwood Park’s Millennium Place. Bossman Lager was 70 Acre’s first beer, a light bodied, malt-forward golden lager.
Endeavour End of Trail Pale Ale, St. Albert
A new, summery version of Endeavour’s End of Trail Pale Ale uses French Barbe Rouge hops from the Alsace region. These hops produce red fruit aromas and flavours of currant, strawberry and cherry. Go for a walk in nearby Riverlot 56 and then pop by Endeavour’s sunny parking lot patio.
RavenWolf Grove City Kölsch, Spruce Grove
Fun fact: Oilers star Leon Draisaitl is from Cologne (Köln), the home
of kölsch ale. I bet Leon would approve of this delicious kölsch, brewed with Alberta hops and malt. Fun fact two: all the burgers for McDonald’s Canada are produced at a plant in Spruce Grove, just around the corner from RavenWolf.
Rural Routes Humu Humu Tropical Sour, Leduc
To see a humuhumunukunukuāpua’a fish you need to go to Hawaii, and to get to Hawaii, you have to go to Leduc. That’s because Edmonton International Airport is actually in Leduc. Easier–try Rural Routes Humu Humu Tropical Sour, made with passionfruit, guava and peach purée. Pair on the patio with a dish from their inventive food program.
Sea Change Man Crush Mandarin Ale, Beaumont
Beaumont surprises with deep Francophone heritage, founded as a French colony in 1895 on land purchased from the Hudson Bay Company. The imposing St. Vital Church is down main street from Chartier, the excellent French restaurant, and Sea Change Brewing’s Beaumont taproom. Man Crush is a highly crushable fruit beer made with orange puree, perfect for summer patios.
Town Square Cornerstone IPA, Edmonton
Back in the day, Edmonton south of Ellerslie Road was terra incognita, marked on maps with “Here be dragons.” Today the deep south is bustling, Town Square Brewing joined by Workshop Eatery and Woodshed Burgers. Nearby, The Orchards neighbourhood won CBC’s Best Burb contest. Cornerstone IPA is a classic west coast IPA, a gold medal IPA at the 2021 Alberta Beer Awards.