“No farms, no beer.”
Bumper sticker at Persephone Brewing, Gibsons B.C.
Hell is a two-sailing ferry wait, broiling in the hot July sun on a 30-degree day on the tarmac at Horseshoe Bay. But as Steve Miller sang, “You know you got to go through hell before you get to heaven,” soon enough we were onboard, enjoying the cooling sea breeze off Howe Sound. Arriving at Langdale on the Sunshine Coast, it was only three minutes up the road to a little bit of heaven—Persephone Brewing’s Beer Farm.
Sitting with friends at a picnic table in the shade of a tree at Persephone one sunny afternoon, we listened to bees buzzing and children playing and took turns heading over to the tap room in the red barn nearby for flights of beer and cider. I took a few minutes to wander off and explore the farm. Persephone sits on 11 acres of land, with fields devoted to barley, hops and vegetables plus two apple orchards, an apiary and chickens. Persephone is a certified B corporation, meaning they have a triple-bottom-line (people, planet, profit) approach to operating. Bottom line for me: the beer is excellent. While Persephone’s beer is not certified organic, organic farming methods are used on the farm and sourcing off the farm focuses on organic.
Organic beer is simply beer made with organic ingredients—in particular, organic malt made from barley or other grains grown without pesticides, herbicides or synthetic fertilizer. Craft beer drinkers expect a lot of their beer— authenticity, naturalness, simplicity, fairness, local focus. So, it’s no surprise some look to organic beer as the next step. Of late, we’ve seen a growth in interest in organic beer, likely linked to an increased concern for the environment.
Nitrogen fertilizer has been a modern wonder, helping Alberta farmers feed a growing world, increasing yields for many crops by huge amounts (Canadian canola yields rose almost 60 per cent from 1990 to 2020). But some worry about the cost of long-term heavy fertilizer use for Alberta’s other black gold—our rich, black chernozem soil. As well, nitrogen fertilizer is a significant source of greenhouse gas emissions, with the Federal Government recently proposing a goal of reducing emissions from fertilizer 30 per cent by 2030. While many farmers are unhappy about this goal, others—especially younger ones—are reinventing traditional methods and turning to organic or renewable/ regenerative farming. Colby Hansen is a rancher and farmer near Westlock who is using traditional methods such as rotational grazing and intercropping, reducing his fertilizer use by up to 50 per cent. Speaking to Mark Connolly on CBC Edmonton AM, Hansen said, “There’s lots of scepticism from conventional farmers. But farmers like me have been doing it and we’re very successful. There’s science there, it’s been proven.” Reducing emissions, sustaining healthy soil and growing great barley for Alberta craft beer: sounds like a win-win-win to me.
Organic six pack
Certified organic beer is still few and far between, but here are six that use organic and local malt. Find at the breweries and better beer stores in Alberta.
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Persephone Dry Irish Stout, Gibsons B.C.
A sunny summer afternoon at Persephone called for the tart, lemony Berliner Weisse, but come the fall their heartier beers are great too. The Irish Stout has a roasty, espresso aroma, tasting of dark coffee and malt. Mildly bitter, dry finish with light carbonation. Try it on nitro if you can!
Nelson Hooligan Organic Pilsner, Nelson B.C.
Nelson Brewing is the OG of organic brewing in Canada, a certified organic craft brewery since launching in Nelson, B.C. in 1991. They use mainly B.C. organic malt and are partnering with local growers on organic hops. Look for their Faceplant Winter Ale when the snow flies, but until then enjoy their take on a traditional German Pilsner—a light, golden lager with a crisp finish.
Hawk Tail Organic Malt Lager, Rimbey AB
Hawk Tail’s stylish, modern tap room overlooks prairie fields near the heart of Alberta barley central. Their Organic Malt Lager is as easy drinking as it is easy on the environment, says co-owner Chris Simeniuk. The Lager was brewed with barley from the certified organic grain farm Kettle Ridge Organics, who grew the barley using sustainable fertilizer from Replenish Nutrients.
Blindman 24-2 Brown Ale, Lacombe AB
This beer has a delightful back story. The barley is grown near Red Deer, planted and harvested by a team of Percheron draft horses from 24-2 Draft Horses (plus some antique farm equipment and methods), then malted and roasted by Red Shed Malting near Penhold. The result is a roasty, toasty brown ale with subtle notes of dark fruit, chocolate and coffee.
Siding 14 Dayliner Golden Ale, Ponoka AB
Siding 14 owners Josh and Femke Lubach are long-time barley farmers north of Ponoka who use their own malting barley to make the beers. Their Golden Ale is a light, crisp and easy drinking ale, named in honour of the passenger rail car that moved thousands of passengers between Calgary and Edmonton back in the day.
Big Spruce Tim’s IPA, Baddeck N.S.
Melanie and Jeremy White began brewing all-organic beer on 75 acres of pristine Cape Breton farmland near Baddeck in 2008. They grow their own organic hops and take care to source organic grains. Tim’s IPA is an east coast take on a classic west coast IPA, hopped with organic Chinook, Simcoe and Citra hops for a piney, resiny, aromatic beer.