Riccardo Baldini follows his heart
by Daniela Zenari with photos by Curtis Comeau
From a Masters in Forestry to a business in microgreens, Riccardo Baldini found a way to follow his heart and ambition in the face of something that would derail most people.
In 2019, Riccardo Baldini, an avid gardener and trained concert pianist, was paralyzed overnight by a spinal cavernoma, a cluster of abnormal blood vessels on the spine. Suddenly, he was thrust into an existence without access to the things he loved, plants and piano. After years of working to find the balance of normal in his new life, he began searching for ways to rekindle his passions.
For the piano it would take more time, but for plants, the answer was microgreens. They don’t require a lot of space and can be set up almost anywhere, making them perfectly accessible for someone who needs things to be within reach
My first introduction to Although he developed the product and Riccardo and his business, Strathcona Microgreens, was through my sister, Elisa Zenari, co-owner of Dalla Tavola Zenari. She had been raving for weeks about her new microgreen producer and how incredible he and his product were. As a restaurateur she knew good microgreens aren’t a bonus, they’re a requirement.
But it wasn’t just his interesting story, or that he was born and raised in Italy that piqued her interest. What he’s doing with Strathcona Microgreens would make anyone pay attention.
Elisa set up a time for us to meet and take a tour of Riccardo’s microgreen facility. The 2000-square foot space glowed under the full-spectrum LED lights, the rich greens and vibrant pinks of the microgreens at centre stage. Riccardo was already talking animatedly with my sister and my niblings (niece and nephew), explaining how his operation works. He popped his lightweight carbon fibre wheelchair over the cables of the humidifiers in the middle of the small bright warehouse as he explained the humidity sensors connected to his phone. If there is even a slight change in levels, he is alerted. He talks about his crops with an intimate knowledge of what
they need to encourage all their unique flavours and qualities to flourish. “We just actually tweaked some of the growth procedure for pea shoots and I think we nailed it,” he says. “Two of the tweaks— we shortened the duration and increased the intensity of the light.”
What makes a good microgreen? When it comes to pea shoots, it’s size. “We never go more than five inches.” This stops the stem from getting fibrous and chewy. The result? “They’re crunchy and juicy. And you have large leaves, and you have that taste of pea shoots, of sweet pea,” says Riccardo.
Riccardo has fine-tuned every variable to bring out the best in each species—bold flavours, big blades, stark veins or short stalks—all the attributes that lift the microgreen from a garnish to an essential part of the dish.
Riccardo started experimenting in February 2021, in the spare room of his apartment, with one metro rack holding four trays of a few different crops. Now they produce 200 trays a week, cycling over 30 different crops.
Although he developed the product and started the business, Riccardo doesn’t do it alone. Part-owner Michelle Moawad has been working with Riccardo from the start. With a background in agriculture, and currently working on her PhD in mycology, she is the perfect partner. “Michelle has been fundamental for the growth [of the business],” says Riccardo.
There has been a lot of growth the past year. “November 15, 2021 is our unofficial anniversary,” says Riccardo. That’s when he gave up selling at farmers’ markets and started approaching restaurants directly, a model that agreed with his environmental values. There is very little waste—everything he produces is on order. This keeps price points stable, even in the face of historically high inflation rates. Harvested on Mondays, delivered on Tuesdays and available year-round, it’s a perfect product for the Edmonton market.
Every aspect of Strathcona Microgreens has been carefully thought out to minimise its environmental impact.
From composting the soil and roots after harvest with Green and Gold Community Garden, to compostable packaging, to sourcing (mostly) Canadian seeds, they are always looking at ways to improve. Unlike the product you get through a traditional supply chain, these microgreens are fresh, locally grown and bursting with flavour, colour and nutrients.
Strathcona Microgreens are already a staple on many Edmonton menus, supplying over 50 restaurants in the area. Riccardo works closely with chefs to match the microgreen to each dish. “I love chefs because they’re so creative. I’m an artist as well and culinary is an art. You can really experiment with food and colours and flavour and scent,” says Riccardo.
Chef Paul Shufelt of Hayloft is one such chef. “I have really come to enjoy the quality and reliability of their microgreens. They provide a pop of colour and complimentary flavour to several of our dishes at Hayloft. My personal favourite is the addition of the micro fennel to our sablefish crudo. It is the perfect complement to the fatty fish and the fresh citrus, really adding to the overall flavour of the dish.”
Producing flavours that explode in your mouth with every bite, and striking colours that grab your eyes, Strathcona Microgreens are bringing a growing number of chefs into the fold. Six of the eight chefs who competed in the Great Canadian Kitchen Party worked with Riccardo’s microgreens for their dishes (including the three chefs on the podium). “I’m so happy to bring them something they can be creative with. That’s what I love.” says Riccardo. “Microgreens are not just a small garnish you put on the dish right? It has to add to the flavour profile.”
But it’s more than just the flavour, says Andrew Fung of XIX Nineteen. “The flavours work for the dishes, but it’s not just a garnish. At the end of the day, it’s him—it’s his passion that makes his product great. It’s how he grows it and the work he puts into it. The product lives through him and it shows.”
Red Veined Sorrel
My sister agrees. “Riccardo’s passion for his product and process is contagious. It’s such a joy to work with him. I want to put his microgreens in everything,” she says. “On one hand he’s an artist in the purest sense. On the other hand, he’s pragmatic and practical. He understands business and the needs of restaurateurs and chefs. It’s a fine balance that not many people can maintain. He does it effortlessly.”
While the majority of Strathcona Microgreens’ business comes from selling to restaurants, they also offer free home delivery and have a devoted fan base of kids and adults alike. “I love hearing moms say stuff like, ‘finally my kids are eating greens again.’ That’s so satisfying, you know?” says Riccardo.
It’s no wonder they are a hit with parents; not only are microgreens packed with nutrition (broccoli microgreens have 40 times the nutrients of regular broccoli), but the kids like them!
I wouldn’t have believed that if I hadn’t witnessed it during our visit, where my niblings (who won’t eat anything with colour), were tasting all the varieties that Riccardo handed them, and even liked some of them (something the kids assured us wouldn’t happen).
Riccardo is a self-proclaimed perfectionist and will continue to fine tune his product. One thing everyone can agree on, Strathcona Microgreens proves that a microgreen is much more than just a garnish.
As for his other passion, piano. Working with a friend, Riccardo applied his ingenuity and creativity and developed a device that allows him to press the pedals of the piano using a mouthpiece. In October 2022 he performed in his first concert since 2019.
Riccardo with Amaranth microgreens (left) and sunflower shoots (right).
For more info on Strathcona Microgreens.
For more info on spinal cavernomas.