Photo Essay
by Curtis Comeau
Food in the Nud cwner Chrysta Morkeberg with the Chocolate Cherry Bomb cupcake
In my cooking journey, I have learned that, generally, one is either a cook or a baker. I prefer cooking. It’s more intuitive to me, and there is generally more leeway when a mistake is made, and I can react to taste right in the moment. Little more salt here, acidity there—you get the idea. Baking, on the other hand, I find it way more challenging. Baking is an unforgiving art form, as seen on the hit TV show Nailed It. You can’t cake it till you make it. It is a science. Precise measurements matter and so does patience, which is not a virtue of mine.
When I want a tasty baked treat, I leave it to the pros, and we have many of those in Edmonton. As we settle into winter, it’s the perfect time to head out and explore the Whyte Avenue area’s fantastic baked goods. Let’s go!
Empress Bakery’s Bismark
The Bomb: Food in the Nud
When I need allergen-friendly baked goods or treats that consider food sensitivities, my go-to is Food in the Nud by Chrysta Morkeberg. When you visit this charming bakery café, it’s hard to resist the wide range of cakes, bars, pies and other goodies. My favourite treat is the gluten free Chocolate Cherry Bomb cupcake. This tasty cupcake, generously topped with vanilla frosting made pink with beetroot powder, is naturally dairy-free, nut-free and egg-free. (9618 76 Avenue, foodinthenud.ca)
Revised History: Little Duchess
The first documented recipe for a dessert that combined lemon custard with meringue was published in 1847 in The Lady’s Receipt-Book, and since then, the basic recipe for lemon meringue pie has remained relatively unchanged. ‘Til now. The artisan bakers over at Duchess Bake Shop elevate lemon meringue pie into a CAKE! Freshly-squeezed lemon juice and zest make a bright lemon cream layered between delicate chiffon cake and salted caramel, all wrapped up in a light, fluffy Swiss meringue. There is a limit to how many lemon meringue cakes they make every day—so get there early. (Two locations: Little Duchess in Ritchie Market and Duchess Bake Shop on 124 Street, duchessbakeshop.com.)
World Famous: Italian Center Shop
When I read The Guardian named pasteis de nata (Portuguese custard tarts), one of the world’s 50 best things to eat, I sought a few places in Edmonton that bake these fresh daily. Although these little treats hail from Lisbon, Portugal, I found my favourites at the Italian Centre Shop Bakery. The crunchy pastry crust and creamy filling are perfect for a treat on a cold winter day. (Not on Whyte but a short drive down Calgary Trail, 5028 104a Street, three locations, italiancentre.ca.)
C’est Très Bon: Bonjour Bakery/Boulangerie Bonjour
Bonjour Bakery has been open in its new location for just over half a year; however, its pain au chocolat recipe remains the same. Owner Yvan Chartrand passionately tells me these fantastic treats are made with New Zealand butter, Belgian chocolate and sourdough. What accounts for the depth of flavour? “Our bread, including the levain in your pain au chocolat, is made with centuries-old European bread-making traditions,” says Yvan. “No additives or preservatives and takes three days to make.” (9913 Whyte Avenue, yvanchartrand.com)
It’s a Party! Doughnut Party
When you read this, several of the doughnuts you see in my photo will likely have been replaced by exciting new flavours. This is because Doughnut Party owners Simon Underwood and Matthew Garrett change the menu regularly. Their doughnut flavours are always unique; cranberry balsamic and strawberry apple jam are two that caught my eye. What doesn’t change, however, is that the doughnuts are freshly baked from scratch. Next time you bring doughnuts to work, skip the franchise and buy local; you won’t regret it. (Three locations: Ritchie, Old Strathcona and the Brewery District, doughnutparty.ca.)
Traditionalists Unite: Empress Bakery
Full transparency: I don’t like the Bismark.* I find them too simple. But, as many people in my circle love these, including The Tomato editor Mary Bailey and my kids, who ate these these right after I took the photo, I felt it prudent to include the Bismark in my story. Suppose you are like me and have friends or family members who love these icing sugar-coated, jelly-filled classics. In that case, I suggest popping into Empress Bakery (you can get them without the icing sugar too) and I’m told the best time is around 11am, when they are still warm. Pick up a baker’s dozen and bring them home to your traditionalists for endless love and affection. (9932 82 Avenue)
*Bismark trivia: In 1485, the cookbook Kuchenmeisterei (Mastery of the Kitchen) was published in Nuremberg. In it was the recipe for a filled donut, savoury, not sweet, the gefüllte krapfen. As sugar became cheaper and more available and an enterprising person invented the pastry syringe, it was called a Berliner (paczki or ponchiks in Poland). By the end of the1800s it was renamed the Bismarcken, after Chancellor Otto von Bismarck. Wherever central Europeans went, the jelly donut (Bismark in Alberta and Saskatchewn, jam busters in Manitoba, sufganiyah in Israel, jelly doughnut in most of the US) followed. Thanks to Leite’s Culianaria for the deep dive on the Bismark.
After School Treat: Hazeldean Bakery
The owner once told me she baked the apple fritters to coincide with the kids getting out of Hazeldean School a block away, but when I called one morning she had some. Your chances of getting a warm and delicious apple fritter for a morning snack have increased ten-fold! (9627 66 Avenue, also a location in Terwillegar called Lucy’s Sweets, lucys-sweets.com.)