Several steps to make the clear stock, more steps to make the pasta. Is it worth it? Yes! The work can be spread over a couple of days and a couple of people. The pasta could be a group project. Ron and Griffin provide a simplified method to make a half-moon shape, familiar to anyone who has made pyrohy or potstickers; but if you know how to make the bishop’s cap-shaped tortelloni (large tortellini), do that, or make ravioli.
Pickled fennel
- ½ c white wine vinegar
- 1 c water
- 1 T sugar
- 1½ t kosher salt
- ½ c shaved fennel
Put wine, water, sugar, salt in a small pot and bring to a boil. As pickling liquid comes to a boil add the fennel. Take off heat and allow to cool completely. Store in the fridge for up to a week.
Tarragon oil
- ½ c extra virgin olive oil
- handful fresh, whole tarragon
In a small stainless steel bowl, add oil and tarragon. Place bowl over a small pot holding simmering water (or put in a double boiler). Gently heat oil to extract the oils from tarragon (no higher than 22ºC). Remove from heat and store in a glass jar for 2 days at room temperature to infuse.
Take out tarragon and store oil, covered, for a few days.
Ice-clarified lobster stock
You will need a large stockpot, a fine sieve, cheesecloth and lots of clean tea towels. If you have metal inserts, use them. Otherwise, colander and bowls will work. The whole point of the procedure is to create an absolutely clear liquid with a golden-yellow glow that tastes like the essence of lobster.
- 2 large lobsters
- 2 medium yellow onions, julienne (chopped in long pieces)
- 2 carrots, sliced
- 2 celery ribs, sliced
- 1 c dry white wine
- 2 t black peppercorns
- 2 cloves garlic, crushed
- 3 bay leaves
- 1 bunch Italian parsley
- olive oil
- fresh water
- tomalley
- ice bath (cold water and ice)
Bring a pot of salted water to a simmer. Place lobsters in pot for 7 minutes (be sure they are fully emerged). Remove and shock in an ice bath to stop cooking. Once cool, take the lobsters apart reserving the shells, tomalley and the meat (you won’t need the lobster meat until it’s time to make the pasta).
On medium high heat, add the shells to a thick-bottomed stockpot with olive oil (to coat). Sweat the shells in pan until it becomes aromatic. Add wine and reduce until the pot is nearly dry (eu’sec). Add a cup of water and reduce and repeat once more. Top up pot with water. Add peppercorns and bay leaves. Bring to a boil and return to a simmer for 20 minutes. Add onions, carrots, celery, garlic and simmer for 30 minutes.
Remove from heat and add parsley and steep for 7 minutes. Strain stock through a fine sieve, return to pot and reduce by half (stock should be quite strong; if not, reduce further). Cool stock slightly, then whisk in tomalley (the liquid will turn a forest green colour).
Pour into metal insert (or a bowl) and place in freezer overnight. Once fully frozen, pop out and wrap tightly in cheesecloth (about 3 layers for a clear filtration).
Place the wrapped stock in the perforated insert over the metal insert (or sieve over a bowl). Place in the fridge and allow to drain through the cheese cloth completely.
Slowly bring the drained liquid to a simmer. The proteins in the tomalley will begin to coagulate pulling all other bits and solids together and rising to the top creating a raft, causing the liquid to further clarify. Carefully strain off the raft through cheese cloth and a fine sieve.
The result? A brilliantly clear, golden-colored stock. Season if necessary then store in refrigerator, or freeze for use later.
Fresh ricotta and lobster pasta
Ron and Griffin made their own ricotta, but you could use store bought.
- 2 c ricotta
- 2 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 onion, small dice
- ½ bulb fennel, small dice
- juice and zest of 1 lemon
- 1 T butter
- ½ c dry white wine
- ¼ c heavy cream
- reserved lobster meat
- 1 T chopped tarragon
- salt and pepper
Sweat onions, fennel and garlic in butter on medium-low heat.
Add wine and reduce until onions are soft. Allow to cool. Place in a bowl, add ricotta and mix well. Fold in lobster, cream and tarragon. Season to taste. Reserve.
Fresh pasta
- 8 yolks
- 1 egg white
- 2 c all-purpose flour, as needed
- 2 t extra virgin olive oil
- 1 t water
- pinch salt
Mound the flour on the counter and form a well in the centre. In a separate bowl, whisk the eggs, oil, water and salt, and pour mixture into the well. With a fork swirl the egg/mixture in, a bit of flour at a time (too much at a time and your dough could become lumpy) keeping the egg mixture in the well. As the dough starts to form, start to knead with your hands. Slowly knead in more flour until you reach the consistency of playdo.
Remove excess flour and knead for 10 minutes until the dough is elastic and shiny. Form into a ball or disc, wrap in plastic and allow to rest in fridge for a couple of hours or overnight.
Cut dough into smaller pieces. Pass dough through pasta roller on the thickest setting, fold dough back on itself and pass through roller a few times. Then pass each piece through, gradually reducing thickness. Once thin enough, lay on a lightly floured surface and cover with a damp towel.
Take a 2-inch circle cutter and cut the dough. Place about 2 t of filling on one side of the dough circle. Wet one tip of the semi-circle and attach it to the opposite side of the semi-circle. Toss each half moon in semolina to prevent sticking and lay on tray in a single layer. Freeze if not being used right away.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil. Using a slotted spoon, place pasta in the water and cook for about 3-4 minutes or until al-dente. With the slotted spoon, carefully remove the pasta from the water and transfer to a colander. Gently rinse the pasta with warm-hot water. This should be done at the last possible moment, right before plating.
To successfully serve pasta, you must have hot plates, hot sauce and hot pasta. Place shallow, wide bowls in a 200ºF oven to warm. Meanwhile, bring the broth to just below simmering, the vapours of the broth should just begin to rise. Hold it at this temperature.
Plating: Place 3 or 4 hot tortelloni in the centre of the warm plate and ladle enough hot broth over to cover the base of the bowl. Sprinkle with a small amount of the pickled fennel, and garnish with a drizzle of the tarragon oil. Serve immediately.
Serves 17 people.