How to make risotto

With chef Alberto Alboreggia

by Mary Bailey

“Lombardia is to rice as Tuscany is to wine,” says Sorrentino’s exec chef, Alberto Alboreggia. “I grew up with risotto and I love making it.”

Chef is from Lombardia, where the short grain varieties of rice ideal for risotto are grown. This rice contains a starch called amylopectin, which allows the rice to become very creamy and absorb a lot of liquid (up to twice its weight depending upon the variety), yet never becomes mushy.

“Making risotto is very simple yet very hard,” he says.

“You must use the right ingredients. There are three kinds of rice for risotto—arborio, which is longer and good for seafood risotto. Canaroli is short and fat and my favourite is vialone nano. I use all of them depending on what kind of risotto I am making. I like the Aquarella brand.

“You must have a good savoury broth. And it’s got to be hot. You must tostatura. This is when you first oil the rice, then you let it turn gold and get very hot. This means the rice won’t break later.

“You must be sure the liquid is absorbed after every step. You stir all the time, slowly,” says chef.

This is where most people fail. You can’t leave, you have to stand there and stir. But, think of it as a meditation, a brief time out, as you can’t do anything else while you are making the risotto.

“Some people put the cheese and butter in early. You can’t do that. It must be mantecatura, stirred in at the end.”

At a dinner featuring Tuscan producer Volpaia, chef made an amazing beet risotto, so creamy and flavourful. I wondered how he could have such perfect results for that many people. What about pre-cooking risotto?

“Yes it can be done,” he said, and started to explain. The process involved cooking the risotto half-way, chilling it, then resuming with the bit of broth, stirring, bit of broth, stirring, all best done in a restaurant kitchen with staff and space.

Instead, let’s celebrate the process and take some time to make risotto the classic way, standing by the stove.

Mushroom Risotto
Alberto Alboreggia, exec chef Sorrentino’s

4 c	chicken broth
100 g	Italian arborio rice
4 T	olive oil
100 g	portobello mushroom, sliced thin
100 g	frozen porcini cubes
100 g	oyster mushroom, sliced thin
50 g	chanterelle mushroom, sliced thin
50 g	chopped onion
25 g	chopped garlic
½ c	dry white wine
50 g	fresh cream
150 g	Parmigiano Reggiano, grated
3 T	butter
50 g	Italian parsley, chopped
3 t	white truffle oil
	salt and pepper

In a saucepan, warm the broth over low heat. Warm 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Stir in the mushrooms, and cook until crispy and gold, about 3 minutes. Remove mushrooms and their liquid and set aside. Add 1 tablespoon olive oil to skillet and stir in the onion and garlic. Cook 1 minute. Add the rice, stirring to coat with the oil, about 4 minutes. (This is the tostatura.) When the rice has taken on a golden color, pour in the wine, stirring constantly until the wine is fully absorbed. Add ½ cup broth to the rice and stir until the broth is absorbed. Continue adding broth ½ cup at a time, stirring continuously, until the liquid is absorbed, and the rice is al dente, about 15 to 20 minutes. Add all the mushroom, the parsley, truffle oil. Add the cream. Remove from heat and stir in the Parmesan and butter. (This is the mantecatura.) Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately.

Serves 4 or 4-6 as a side dish.

Butternut Squash Risotto
Alberto Alboreggia, exec chef Sorrentino’s

4 c	vegetable broth (or chicken stock)
100 g	Italian arborio rice
4 T	olive oil
150 g	butternut squash puree
3-4	sage leaves
50 g	chopped onion
25 g	chopped garlic
½ c	dry white wine
50 g	fresh cream
150 g	Parmigiano Reggiano, grated
3 T	butter
50 g	chives, chopped
1 T	hazelnut oil
50 g	crumbled goat cheese
	salt and pepper

In a saucepan, warm the broth over low heat. Warm 3 tablespoons olive oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the onion, garlic and sage. Add the rice, stirring to coat with oil, about 4 minutes. (This is the tostatura.) When the rice has taken on a golden color, pour in the wine, stirring constantly until the wine is fully absorbed. Add the butternut squash puree. Add ½ cup broth to the rice and stir until the broth is absorbed. Continue adding broth ½ cup at a time, stirring continuously, until the liquid is absorbed, and the rice is al dente, about 15 to 20 minutes. Add the fresh chives, hazelnut oil. Add the cream. Remove from the heat, and stir, adding the Parmesan and butter. (This is the mantecatura.) Season with salt and pepper to taste. Add the crumbled goat cheese on top of the rice. Serve immediately.

Serves 4 or 4-6 as a side dish.