Bubbles, innovative traditions in Rioja and Chianti and non-alcoholic spirits.
by Mary Bailey
Seedlip is here! The British-made non-alcoholic spirit is creating raves across Europe and the US. Non-alcoholic spirit; how is that you say? This is how they do it — the herbs and botanicals are cold macerated in neutral grain spirit and water. Then, each is distilled in a copper pot. The alcohol is removed before blending and bottling. The result? A bracing tonic with intense and pure flavours, yet, without the alcohol. Seedlip suggests a long drink with tonic but we bet Edmonton’s creative barkeeps will be coming up with some cool cocktails using this unique drink. Try the woodsy Spice 94 made with oak, cascarilla bark, green cardamom, allspice berries, lemon and grapefruit peel, or the floral Garden 108 with spearmint, rosemary, thyme, hops, spring peas and hay. It’s priced at $45/700ml, but, remember, a little goes a long way. Available at Sherbrooke Liquor, in the gin section and at Maven & Grace.
Rocio Osborne is the sixth generation in her family in the wine business. If that is a crushing obligation, you would never know it, she wears the responsibility lightly, bringing a fresh, modern and smart energy to her role at Bodegas Montecillo.
It’s the right time. There is a quiet revolution going on in Rioja now, with changes to the laws that govern wine growing and making along with investments in vineyard and equipment with an eye to restoring the lustrous reputation Rioja once held.
At Montecillo that means a new winemaker, Mercedes García, hired in 2008, who works closely with
vineyard manager, Carmelo Espinosa Muga, who in turn works with the independent growers who supply fruit to the venerable house.
The proof is in the bottle. The newer vintages display all the hallmarks of great Rioja, ageability, complexity and gravitas, but are fresher, cleaner and more vibrant with ripe, super silky tannins, balance and terrific flavours. I am all for obscure and hard to find wines, made in tiny amounts, but it’s gratifying to see that reliable big houses with great reputations are not coasting — not just maintaining but upping the quality of their offerings. Brava!
Stephen Spurrier has been in the wine trade for many decades, as a merchant, impresario (1976’s Judgement of Paris) writer and educator. Now, he can add wine estate proprietor to the list. He has planted the classic Champagne varieties of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier on the chalky, south facing slopes of his wife’s sheep farm in Dorset, England.
The first harvest was 2011. The 2014 is now available here. The Bride Valley Brut Reserve is a fine bubble, elegant, precise and very tasty. The Chardonnay-forward blend (55 per cent Chardonnay, 25 per cent Pinot Noir, 20 per cent Pinot Meunier) is present in the refined aromas of biscuit on the nose and lemony flavours. It’s not a profound nor particularly complex wine, yet it’s elegant and beautifully balanced with a lovely crisp acidity and tiny bubble. Loved this wine.
There is also a Blanc de Blancs and the Rosé Bella (named after Mrs. Spurrier). I hope we see these soon.
Around $60 at better wine shops.
Barone Francesco Ricasoli of the historic Chianti estate Castello Brolio has an interesting, and refreshing, view on the huge investment the family has undertaken to improve quality. “It doesn’t necessarily make the wine better but it helps us reduce the number of mistakes we make.” The project mapped all the soils, allowing them to practise more precise viticulture. The results are in the bottle. From the basic Chianti Brolio, to their single crus, the wines communicate honesty, gentle winemaking, terroir and vintage in every sip. The biggest surprise? The wines not generally associated with Chianti — the Torricella Chardonnay, elegant and lovely, food friendly and ageable. The oak is subtle, helping to provide backbone for the pristine fruit. The single cru Casalferro is, surprisingly, Merlot. And what a Merlot! The 2015 is already displaying the elegance associated with this wine, fresh and subtle, silky-textured with firm tannins, high acidity with beautiful balance and long finish. It’s too young to drink now, cellar for at least five more years. The Chianti Classicos — Brolio, Rocca Guicciarda and Bettino offer increasing levels of complexity and beauty. Available at better wine shops.
Another bubble worth seeking out is the new Fitz Brut sparkling from Fitzpatrick Family Vineyards at Greata Ranch. Gordon Fitzpatrick is no stranger to the wine business, having shepherded Cedar Creek into the top tier of Okanagan wines before selling to Mission Hill a few years back.
The family kept the Greata Ranch property near Summerland, purchased in 1994, where they had planted Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, ideal for a sparkling wine project. Recently they have also planted Meunier to complete the classic Champenoise trio. The philosophy does depart from Champagne on one key difference — the wines are single vintage. The idea is to reflect the vintage and the estate, not blend the wines to a house style. In the cellars are two reserve wines, Blanc de Blancs and a 100 per cent Pinot Noir Rosé, on their lees. We look forward to the release. The Fitz Brut, under $35, is available at Wine & Beyond.
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