Martin’s Lane’s Pinot Noir and Riesling, Death’s Door Gin and Laura Catenas’s innovations at Bodegas Catena Zapata
by Mary Bailey
The story of Martin’s Lane is the story of Pinot Noir and Riesling; how the two varieties communicate the viticultural idea of the Okanagan—intensity, extremes, desert-like precipitation, volcanic and granite soils, sunny days, cool nights, latitude, altitude—it’s winemaking on the edge of possibility. The story is as dramatic as the winery, perched above Cedar Creek Winery, an architectural work of art (or, James Bond’s lair, according to one Okanagan resident).
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The first releases from 2014 are now in the market. The wines are spectacular— communicative, ageable, impeccably balanced, even in their youth, but don’t be in a hurry to drink any of them, as your patience will be rewarded. From $75. |
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 A Canadian, an Australian and a Mexican walked into a bar. That’s not exactly the origin story of Tromba Tequila but it’s close. Eric Brass, Nick Reid, James Sherry and Rodrigo Cedano met during an exchange school program in Guadalajara. |
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A key tenet for the winery is sustainability, especially water use. “The lack of irrigation helps to create grapes with thicker skin to protect from the sun and creates more concentration,” said Pedro Brancoli of Viña Montes at a recent tasting of new releases. The entry-level Classic line is well-made everyday wine for under $20. The Alpha Cab, with its green notes, nice ripe tannins, red currant flavours and balanced acidity, similar in style to a Petit Bordeaux, is terrific value, around $25. The Montes Folly, 100 per cent Syrah, made from selected grapes in those high-altitude vineyards is a gorgeous wine, as is the iconic Purple Angel. |
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The two love Friuli, its wines, culture and its ham, hence the amusing labels. The Scarpetta Rosso IGT is a Tuscan field blend of Cabernet, Merlot, Colorino and Mammolo. Juicy, lowish tannins, earthy red fruit flavours, moderate length—crushable! $18ish. |
 “Gneiss, granite, blue slate, schist.” Pierre-Henrí Gadais of Domaine Gadais Père et Fils is identifying the rocks in his hands, explaining how they form the soil in his family vineyards in Muscadet-Sèvre-et-Maine, 15k south-east of Nantes in north-eastern France. That is the very cradle of the appellation in Saint-Fiacre, the patron saint of gardeners, where the Sèvre and Maine Rivers meet. Growers were praying to Saint Fiacre in 2017 when frost took about 40 per cent of the crop. “The Vieilles Vignes (old vines) is on gneiss, planted by my grandfather in 1929,” says Pierre-Henrí. Most Muscadet spend about six months on the lees, but the Vieilles Vignes spends 14 months, which lends the wine a slightly chewy texture and amazing complexity. (Crestwood had some, about $35). We look forward to getting our hands on a bottle or two of the highly sought-after Monopole (single vineyard). Aged in oak, it spends anywhere from 18-24 months on the lees and comes from vines that average 40 years. In the meantime, we’ll happily drink the beautifully light and refreshing Domaine de la Tourmaline, about $22. |
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 The widow Clicquot must be, by now, the most famous person in Champagne. For good reason. At 27, Barbe-Nicole Ponsardin took over the family business upon her husband’s death; she invented riddling on her dining room table (to remove sediment from the wines) she was the first to ship to Russia, creating an entirely new market for Champagne, and, she invented rosé. In 1818. Veuve Clicquot is celebrating the 200th anniversary of rosé. What better time to taste the 2006 Grande Dame Rosé? $450. Lucky those wine lovers who have some in their cellar. Another first —the Extra Brut Extra Old, $125. Bertrand Varoquier was in Edmonton recently to talk about the first ever blend of reserve wines. First made in 2103, with wines from 2010, 2009, 2008, 2006, 1996 and 1988. “The idea was to show the richness and complexity of the reserve wines,” said Bertrand. “Some of our best wine are put in reserve for the next generation. It’s the spirit of the house.” The blend is on lees for three years, then disgorged and aged under cork for one year. It has slightly less pressure than most Champagnes, giving the effervescence a pleasing creaminess. There is much less sugar added to the dosage, resulting in a wine that has 3g/l residual sugar (Brut can be up to 9g/l). The result? A wine that is pure and precise, refined and complex, with savoury notes of mushroom and soy and a lingering aftertaste. Absolutely delicious. About $120. |
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Event Calendar |
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May 1-6 May 3-May 13 Friday, May 4 Saturday, May 5 Sunday, May 6 Monday, May 7 Tuesday, May 8 Sunday, May 13 Sunday, May 13 Tuesday, May 15 Thursday, May 17 |
Friday, May 18 May Long Weekend Saturday, May 26 Tuesday, May 29 Friday, June 1 Sunday, June 3 Monday, June 11 Tuesday, June 12 Tuesday, June 12 June 16 – June 17, Father’s Day Weekend Thursday, June 21 |