“I’m at Mario’s,” says Rod Butters. “It’s the best coffee in Vancouver.” Rod is in Vancouver helping to organize the BC Junior Chef’s competition. (He’ll be in Edmonton for the national conference at the end of May.) Passing along his craft is vital. “I’ve graduated 48 apprentices, it’s a race to 50,” he says, referring to the apprenticeship system which turns cooks into chefs. “My life, even more than being a restaurateur or a chef is bringing cooks along. We have to give back to our community — if we can’t pass it on there’s no point really. Our chefs’ association in the Okanagan was 22 members, now we’re at 170.”
The contribution Rod Butters has made to the Canadian culinary scene is enormous. We’ll pick up Rod’s story after Wickaninnish (Rod was opening chef de cuisine at the Wickaninnish Inn in 1996, his food and service standards propelling the property to its now legendary status as a top table) when Rod moved to Kelowna to open Fresco.
“That was 2001 and within a year we had Four Diamond status. It was important to me at the time, especially as an independent restaurant, but it became less important. So, we made the change to RauDZ and now we’re doing what we really wanted to do all along. It’s been a great eight years. We’re working with the same suppliers I started with back then, even more so. ”
Why Kelowna? “After the Wik I took a year off to look for the magic answer. I’ve got a book full of ideas. But it was the wineries — they are making world-class wine and they are doing all the marketing to get the people here. And we’ve shown you can be successful as an independent.
“We’re still with our first suppliers — Irene Bevendick, Second Wind Farms for peas, carrots, incredible red-veined spinach with tiny little leaves, and last year, over 1000 pounds of raspberries, and Jon and Sher Alcock at Sunshine Farm. They’re southeast of Kelowna, they run a program at their farm for mentally challenged adults. We get to work with people like North Okanagan Game Meats and Takoff Farms, Two Rivers Meats.
“It’s fantastic here — the amount of money we spent on couriers to try to bring these vegetables to Tofino. What we really need now is a Relais & Chateau, a Sooke Harbour House kind of place. Not me, but I hope someone does that.
“If I could do it all over again? I’d be coaching in major league baseball. Maybe the Jays? They could use some help.”
Root vegetable torte
- 3 cloves garlic, minced
- 3 large shallots, sliced thin
- ½ c shredded parmesan
- 1 c heavy cream
- ¼ c fresh herbs (any) chopped
- sea salt and cracked black pepper
Mix together and reserve for layering between the vegetables. If you don’t want to use cream, substitute unsalted vegetable stock in place of the cream. Cheese can be omitted.
- 2 large carrots
- 2 large beets, red or gold
- 1 medium rutabaga
- 2 medium white turnips
- 6 pc sunchokes (if available)
- 1 small celery root
- 2 medium parsnips
- 2 russet potatoes
- 3 oz mild goat cheese
Peel and slice all the vegetables as thin as possible, using a mandolin or knife.
Pre-heat oven to 400ºF
Spray casserole dish with non-stick spray or line entire dish with parchment paper. Layer one variety of vegetable at a time in dish. Between each layer, sprinkle with garlic parmesan cream mixture. Continue to alternate vegetables until casserole dish is full. Try alternating different colours of vegetables for the greatest effect. Sprinkle goat cheese on top layer. Cover very loosely with tinfoil or parchment paper.
Bake at 400ºF for approximately 50-60 minutes or until centre of casserole feels tender by inserting fork. A baking sheet can be placed under casserole dish, just in case liquid escapes while baking. Remove from oven and let stand.
This can be served directly from the pan, or cooked the day before and chilled. The root vegetable torte can then be removed from dish, sliced and reheated. Garnish with fresh seasonal greens.
Serves 4-6.