Summer wines from Australia, Germany, Canada, France and Spain
by Mary Bailey
40 Knots is a relatively new winery on Vancouver Island near Comox. It’s a sustainable vineyard (they are on their way to biodynamic certification) and the wines are appealing.
Michael Bartier is the consulting winemaker to the farm worked by the Craig family. One characteristic of the wines is alcohol levels in the 10-12 per cent range, a boon to those who are having trouble with the monster 14-15 per centers. Can’t wait to try the rest of the lineup but, so far, the Gamay Noir ($47)—red fruits, great acidity, persistent flavour and a gentle quality—is ideal to drink slightly chilled on a gorgeous Alberta evening.
The L’Orange ($60), an intriguing blend of Schönberger and Pinot Gris is bright, with a soft texture, zesty melon and tropical fruit flavours, complex with a lovely acidity and long finish. The colour comes from extended skin contact (both grapes have red skins) and fermentation and aging in amphora. If you have been wondering about orange wine, this is a good one with which to take the plunge. And, if you are on Vancouver Island this summer, this would be a great winery to visit.
“2018 was our best vintage in 10 years,” says Stags’ Leap senior winemaker and Sauterne native Christophe Paubert. “It was not too hot. I make wine I like, and I like tannin,” says Christophe. “For me the wine is about the tannin and the acidity. For example, 100 per cent of the Merlot is from south of Yountville. It’s much cooler there and cooler weather is better for tannin and acid.”
The estate is best known for Petit Sirah and Cabernet Sauvignon but don’t count out the Merlot, the Chardonnay, Viognier or new this year, Sauvignon Blanc. The 2015 Napa Valley Cabernet ($51) is loaded with rich berry fruit, especially blackberry, with juicy acidity, a hint of sweet wood and fine tannins. The Merlot has grippy tannins providing backbone to the luscious fruit.
What about the fires? “Fires didn’t affect the wines” says Christophe. We had no smoke taint. Early smoke is worse, by harvest time the skins are thick enough to resist the smoke,” he says.
Ne Cede Malis Petite Sirah ($99) is a field blend from a block first planted in 1929—85 per cent Petit Syrah and 17 other varieties, head trained (gobelet) as they do in the southern Rhone. “There is minimal winemaking, a few pump overs, a bit of splashing” says Christophe. “The Petite Sirah brings the blue and black berry and floral, earthy, spicy notes,” he says. “It’s a beautiful expression of terroir.” It’s mouth filling yet refreshing with lovely ripe tannins.
“Old vines always have soft tannins.”
Emma Shaw of Clare Valley winery Jim Barry Wines was in town recently tasting through the current lineup. There was the incredibly good value 2016 Cover Drive Cabernet Sauvignon, the luxurious 2015 McRae Wood Shiraz and tasters were treated to the icon, the 2014 Armagh Shiraz. Lucky tasters!
Something new from Jim Barry is the Assytriko. After the long and involved process to bring in cuttings from Greece, they planted in 2012. The wine is a trip—vibrant, bone dry, crisp acidity, with flavours of lime and pear—let’s say this Greek import is settling down very nicely in the Clare Valley.
“The first step is to get bartenders interested,” says Phillipp Schladerer, the current family member to helm the historic (1844) Black Forest company. Philip is talking about introducing a new generation to the beauty of kirsch and other fruit brandies. “Good bartenders are always looking for some new flavours to play with.”
Schladerer does things the old-fashioned way, in copper stills with high-quality fruit they buy in season, all over Europe. The spirits undergo long aging, at least two years in tank.
The cherries for the Kirschwasser are from the Black Forest. The hint of almond in the flavour is from the cherry pits. “We don’t crush the pits and ferment them anymore,” he says, “but we do use them in the distillation process, for the flavour.”
The nose on the William-Birne, made from red Williams pears, has a subtle smokiness and range of aromas. “The broad aroma profile is from the fermentation,” says Phillip. The flavours give an impression of the pear texture, a bit grainy, with tremendous depth and layers. It’s soft and gentle, not spiritous, a contemplative drink.
The raspberries for the Himbeergeist are hand-picked in the Carpathian Mountains. The word geist refers to the process—the berries are macerated in alcohol, then distilled, rather than fermented. This gives the Himbeergeist upfront raspberry aromas and higher alcohol. “It’s really good in a mojito,” says Phillip.
Along with using in cocktails, Philipp suggests the classic way to serve fruit brandy—as a digestive after dinner. “But just 10 cl, not more,” he says.
Pear Sour
| 5 cl | Williams-Birne Pear |
| 3 cl | lemon juice |
| 2 cl | sugar |
Shake with ice and serve in a cocktail glass. Makes 1.
Six Beaujolais and Mâconnais wine growers got together 22 years ago to form Terroirs Originels. Now, the group has 30 families across the Cru, the Beaujolais Villages and the Mâconnais (southern Burgundy) who share the same philosophy and ideas around sustainability. Elie Gauthier from Morgon, whose family is one of the original six, visited recently with new releases. “We make wine with our own grapes. They are all family vineyards,” says Elie.
Unusual and fun to have a rosé from Beaujolais. Gauthier’s, called Vintage, dances in the mouth with crisp acidity and a long finish. Next up was the Gamay Poppy ($25ish) made by Yohan Lardy. “Yohan spent time in Chile and when he came back his dad, Lucien, gave him his best blocks, in Fleurie and Moulin à Vent. Yet because the wine is aged in barrel, it cannot be called by the Cru name,” says Elie. This rule breaker also vinifies using only native yeasts, no sulphites and ages for 10 months. It’s fresh and fruity with depth and character. Delicious!
We also tasted the Pascal Aufranc 2017 Chénas from a hillside vineyard surrounded by forest with vines over 70 years old. A beautiful wine, seamless, complex, soft tannins, juicy and with great acidity.
Coming this fall is a presentation case of six Cru. What a beautiful gift that will be.
Two new wines from Nathalie Bonhomme, our favourite Quebecer making wine in Spain, are Caminos del Bonhomme. “In French it means your road. For me it means following my own path,” says Nathalie.
These are probably the most personal of Nathalie’s wines, inspired by the trees of Tofino and a trip to Emerald Lake in November Nathalie made with her twin sister. “Struggling to survive in a harsh world. It reminded me of my journey in wine. Me in the Spanish pool,” she says. The grapes for Caminos are not Spanish natives either, yet have learned to thrive. The Cabernet Sauvignon ($24) is made by her friend Rafael Cambra who makes el Bonhomme* with Natalie. Cool minty, red and blackcurranty, salty/sweet liquoricy aromas and flavours with ripe, well-integrated tannins. Generous.
The Chardonnay ($24), grown and hand-harvested from old vines on sunny terraces at altitude, is made by Antonio Sarrión of Bodegas Mustiguillo. “I have always wanted to work with Antonio,” says Nathalie. It’s 30 per cent fermented and aged in older French oak, creating complex flavours of pear and cream with a backbone of fresh acidity. Can’t wait to have this with summer seafood or halibut off the grill.
*For fans of El Petit (the red label) it’s available on tap at all Earl’s.