There is a compelling movement in wine to less intervention, less messing about with the soil, a more live-and-let-live, or natural way, to deal with pests and a deeper understanding that grapes need to grow within a more uncultivated environment.
Along with a less is more approach in the field, the best winemakers are learning to let go, not try to control everything all the time, to be more intuitive, to allow for natural fermentations, less sulphur, more diverse flavours. Amen to that.
These two Italian producers are well versed in the way of the grape and are examples of what happens when you let go and work with rather than against.
Serafini & Vidotto, Veneto, Italy
Oenologist Francesco Serafini and viticulturist Antonello Vidotto are known for their care and attention to natural processes. Preserve the soil’s vitality, plant with the right density and don’t overproduce (each vine yields about one bottle of wine) could sum up Serafina and Vidotto’s approach to growing wine. This philosophy is ideal for growing grapes in Montello-Colli Asolani DOC, just north west of Treviso. The rolling hills are bound by the Piave River and the geology and aspect are ideal for Cabernet and Merlot and the white grapes of the region.
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Manzoni Bianco
2018 Manzoni Bianco DOC
Manzoni is a unique grape. Italy is home to over 2000 autochthonous varieties, according to Italian wine grape expert Ian D’Agata. Yet, Manzoni is a crossing of Riesling and Pinot Bianco created in 1926 for the Piave area by professor Luigi Manzoni. There is only about 50 ha of Manzoni planted in Italy; it’s worth looking out for. We love the clarity of the Serafina & Vidotto bottling, the pale gold colour and the aromas of herbs and elderflower. This light-bodied wine is fine and elegant with beautifully balanced acidity and a lingering minerality. Enjoy with seafood risotto, pizza bianco or vegetable dishes.
Pinot Nero Giovane
2018 Pinot Nero Giovane IGT
This Pinot Noir has gorgeous wild strawberry and thyme aromas, pretty berry flavours, gentle tannins and spot-on acidity. Its medium body makes it a great transition wine from summer to fall. Drink with grilled vegetables and salmon, roast chicken or pork.
Phigaia Rosso
2017 Phigaia Rosso DOC Montello Colli Asolani
This generous blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc is deliciously rich with cherry and blackcurrant flavours. The forthright structure and beautifully ripe tannins surround substantial body—think grilled meats or strong aged cheeses. A delicious wine for dinners on crisp fall nights.
Tenuta de Angelis, le Marche, Italy Quinto Fausti and his son Alighiero own and operate Tenuta de Angelis in southern Marche close to the border with Abruzzo. A lovely family and responsible stewards of the land, they use only their own certified organic grapes. Wines are vegan, fermented with native yeasts and their use of sulphur is low, the maximum allowed is under 80 grams per litre.
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Marche Rosato
2019 Marche Rosato IGT
This zippy rosato with lots of citrus notes was the wine of the summer. Let’s hope for sunny days this fall to enjoy it with grilled shrimp, roast chicken and the last of the tomato sandwiches. The grapes, 50 per cent Montepulciano, and 50 per cent Sangiovese are from De Angelis’ certified organic vineyards in Ascoli Piceno.
Pecorino Offida
2019 Pecorino Offida DOCG
I remember a delicious Fausti family lunch in Offida of toothsome Marchigiani dishes along with this wine. Evanescent citrus and floral notes both on the nose and the palate. Full-bodied, impeccably dry, but with a slightly creamy texture, seductive minerality, excellent acidity and a distinctive sit-up-and-notice-me quality that’s rare to find in a bottle of wine this affordable. Delicious with any sort of pasta with cheeses, stuffed tomatoes, cabbage rolls. Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay lovers, give this Pecorino a try.
Rosso Piceno
2018 Rosso Piceno DOC
Rosso Piceno is practically mother’s milk in this part of le Marche. This De Angelis bottling is a blend of 70 percent Montepulciano and 30 percent Sangiovese. Think aromas and flavours of soft berry fruit and wild herbs, with refreshing acidity and super drinkability. Easy-going, medium-bodied, a pleasure to drink. Enjoy with hearty ragus and bean dishes.
