by Mary Bailey
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Averill Creek (Cowichan Valley, Vancouver Island).
Edmonton expat Andy Johnson carved out a special vineyard on Mount Prevost in the early 2000s. The wines were good. With vines maturing and winemaker Brett Rowland arriving in 2018, the wines are stellar. It’s more about what they don’t do (mess with the wine, or the vines) than what they do (wild ferment, no enzymes or nutrients added and little to no sulphur.) Most are unfined and unfiltered. We tasted the new releases with the winemaker at Color de Vino in late fall.
The Averill Creek Charme NV is completely charming. From Pinot Gris and Noir, barely noticeable sweetness, creamy, lively and bright. Made using the Charmat method and perfect for brunch or lazy holiday afternoons, $38.
The 2019 Pinot Noir—evanescent aromas of woods and berry that evolve into concentrated flavours. It has lovely tension, with firm acidity and ripe tannins providing structure, a graceful and appealing wine. If you have a roast for Christmas, this is your wine, or enjoy with grilled salmon or mushroom dishes, $45.
2018 Zsirai Olaszrizling (Hungary)
Olaszrizling (Welschriesling in Austria) is the most widely planted white grape in Hungary, from Somló, where the soil is volcanic (basalt) and quality can rival a great Furmint. Loads of extract and refreshing acidity. Drink with chicken, roast turkey, egg dishes at brunch. Delicious, $26.
NV Cune Cava Rosé (Spain)
Note to self: have lots of good bubble around for the holidays. Especially this rosé—great taste, great price, $20.
Still One is releasing their Premium Vodka ($35) and Dry Gin ($40)
in a high-quality frosted bottle just in time for the holidays. They expect to launch a special Cello (as in lemoncello) in the frosted bottle soon as well. The relatively new distillery in St. Albert is the real thing—the mash and fermentation is all in house (some distilleries use purchased spirit) and the water is filtered and purified in house as well. There is no artificial colouring nor preservatives used and infusions are made in house using real fruit, not concentrates.
Black Tot Rum
Inspired by historic British Royal Navy blends, Black Tot is produced with molasses spirit from three different Caribbean distilleries (4 Square Distillery in Barbados, the Diamond Distillery in Guyana and the Long Pond Distillery in Jamaica) ranging from unaged spirit to five years aged. The Spirits Business Gold medal winner in 2020. Stylish, not heavy, with rich and complex flavours of warm spice, leather and sweet brown sugar notes, along with apple and dried tropical fruit. The finish is long and warm and not too sweet, $65.
Peat’s Beast Single Malt Whisky
If you love peated malts, these are your jam. Three styles—Single Malt, Batch Strength and PX Finish. The Single Malt has notes of liquorice with a heathery freshness peeking through the smoke. The Batch Strength is fiery, with ginger and cumin along with milk chocolate and some citrusy orange (think Terry’s Chocolate Orange) aromas and flavours. The PX Finish brings dried fig and date into the mix. Created by two long time whisky aficionados in 2011, the whiskys are not chill filtered and have no additives or colouring, $68-75.
2020 Gérard Bertrand Change
Merlot (France), Gérard Bertrand is upending tradition in the south of France, with a strong and ongoing commitment to organic farming and climate change. The Change wines are from vineyards that are converting to organic farming. Well-priced, great for every day, this may become your new popcorn wine. There is a Change Sauvignon Blanc too, ideal with winter salads, $20.
2020 Vasse Felix Filius Chardonnay
Nothing like a vibrant Chard to have with turkey dinner. This offering from Margaret River’s Vasse Felix is zesty and bright with subtle tropical fruit notes, creamy and herbaceous lemon with underlying toasty hazelnut notes from the oak. Lovely with grilled salmon, pasta or with mushrooms or pork roast, $30.
2018 Yalumba Eden Valley, Viognier (Australia)
Sometimes, especially at the holidays, you need a wine that will please many different taste and palates. This is it. Yalumba is a specialist in Viognier, each vintage is a treasure. This bottling has the fleshy apricot and peach notes you have come to expect, reigned in with beautiful refreshing acidity. Ideal with Asian food especially, such as lemongrass and pork dumplings. It would be excellent with the Filistix holiday entertaining menu on page 6, $28.
Lone Pine’s Christmas Gin
Redolent of mulled wine—cinnamon, anise and nutmeg— along with notes of peppermint, citrus and juniper. Sip on its own, warm, or with an ice cube, make a long drink with cranberry and soda or pour into the egg nog, $33.