L to R: Pawel Maka (Pacific W&S) Adam Balasoglou (Nautilus) and Curtis Bawden (Pacific W&S) at The Butchery.
The Marlborough region in New Zealand was first planted in 1973, Nautilus in 1979. Since then, the story has been about quality over quantity. “We’re on the small side of medium,” said Adam Balasoglou, sales manager for Nautilus at a tasting at The Butchery.
While New Zealand is best known for its distinctive style of Sauvignon Blanc (a reputation that Nautilus had a big hand in developing) Marlborough Pinots are also a treat. And great value.
2022 Sauvignon Blanc
With its citrusy aromas, beautiful textural quality and long finish, this SB is well suited to dinner—baked salmon, roast chicken, creamy pasta dishes
2022 Nautilus Chardonnay
A lovely wine, with soft pear and red apple aromas, stone fruit and an attractive herbaceousness. Medium bodied, balanced acidity, terrific finish. Drink with shellfish and summer salads.
2019 Southern Valleys Pinot Noir
Fresh, with red cherry and berries on the nose, hint of black earth. Medium bodied, with an engaging tension, some spice, an overall pleasurable experience. Well-structured with fine tannins, which Adam attributes to the maturity of the vines. Drinking beautifully right now, but could cellar for three to five years.
Just in time for summer parties, Gigglewater Prosecco is now in piccolo (aka purse-sized bottles) just the thing for picnics, boating, or for those who don’t like to share.
Robert Ouestric (Domaine de La Bégude) and Cailtin Fulton (RGE RD) at RGE RD.
Bandol, a speck of an appellation within Provence is known for its cultivation of Mourvèdre, a small thick-skinned berry that makes serious, sometimes brooding, wines full of character and tannin. They don’t make much and Domaine de la Bégude, at the highest point of the Bandol appellation, 410 metres from the Mediterranean Sea, is considered one of the best practitioners. The name derives from the site, beguda a place of respite for weary travelers.
2020 Bandol Rosé
This rosé has a bit more ooomph than the usual pale Provence offerings. Call it a pink wine for red wine lovers. The slow pressing brings out the generous textures and flavours and possesses a fresh, wonderful acidity, love the spicy finish. Drink with spicy shrimp quesadillas or crudité with hummus.
Cadet de la Bégude Méditerranée IGP
A lively introduction to Bandol reds, with sour cherry and bramble notes. Approximately one third each Mourvèdre, Grenache and Cinsault from young vines. Drink this a little chilled all summer long.
2020 Bandol Rouge, Bandol AOP
The 2020 is youthful, showing some restraint in flavour but also some lovely herb notes, along with deep blackberry fruit. Mourvèdre benefits from aging, put it away for a few years to be rewarded. Very limited quantities.
2022 Blue Canyon Monterey Pinot Noir
Monterey Bay vineyards are strongly influenced by the Pacific Ocean, which cools down even the hottest vintages. The 2020 has attractive berry aromas, primarily raspberry, along with some briary notes, with flavours of sour cherry joining the berries. Medium-bodied with an attractive finish. The oak influence is subtle and the tannins are just right. Drink slightly chilled with casual foods, grilled salmon or cabbage rolls. Good value, great to see another well-priced Pinot.
L to R: Federica Ca’ del Baio, Stacey-Jo Strombecky (2851 Selections) Chiara Condello at RGE RD.
Chiara Condello from Emilia-Romagna and Federica Ca’ del Baio from Barbaresco were in town for a series of tasting and dinners. I only managed to taste one of Chiara’s offerings, but caught up with Federica over lunch at Dalla.
Chiara Condello Romagna Sangiovese Predappio
Chiara’s first vintage on her own (not with the family estate, Conde) was in 2015, and it’s clear that she has a vision for Sangiovese in the region. The Predappio is just delicious with aromas and flavours of dusty cherry, and hints of mint, silky tannins, crunchy acidity. And this is the entry level wine. Insane.
“It was my first time meeting Chiara,” says Federica Ca’ del Baio, of Ca’ del Baio Az. Agricola, “and our philosophy is the same, what we are doing in the vineyards and in the cellar are similar. We are a family producer, fifth generation farmers and fourth generation winemakers.”
2022 Langhe DOC Chardonnay Sermine
Love the minerality of this Chard, beautiful apple and pear notes, not voluptuous, more vertical and just delicious. Drink with salmon or halibut, roast pork, mushroom dishes.
2022 Dolcetto d’Alba Lodoli
Fresh, zesty, lots of fruit, balanced acidity, a pleasurable sip. Ca’ del Baio ferments about 10 per cent of the wine using carbonic maceration which ups the freshness and vivacity. Some people are pulling out Dolcetto vines and planting the bigger ticket Nebbiolo. This wine will make you mourn that. Drink with everything tomato—pizza, bruschetta, pomodoro.
2022 Langhe Nebbiolo DOC
Think of this as a baby Barbaresco, it’s accessible and delicious and affordable. Black cherry and strawberry, leather, pretty floral notes, with slightly grippy tannins, lovely balanced acidity. Drink with baked vegetable dishes, roast beef.
2020 Barbaresco Autinbej
The name refers to the old practice in Barbaresco of choosing grapes from the best and sunniest parts of different cru. “We choose for different reasons, thicker skins mean more sugar, thinner skins more acidity. We find the beauty in the balance. The vinification is the same, we leave the wine to interpret where is comes from,” says Federica. And beautiful it is. Drink now, to enjoy its youth or cellar for eight to 10 years for the full experience.
Irene Dal Canto, Tenuta Fanti, at Color de Vino.
The Fanti family has been farming in Montalcino since 1880. In the early 80’s, Filippo decided to invest in Sangiovese; the first vintage of Tenuta Fanti was 1980. Now, his daughters, Elisa and Elena are running the family business, 50 ha of vines, with 40 ha in Sangiovese. Fanti is in the southeast corner of Montalcino, near an important cultural landmark, Sant’Antimo Abbey. There is a lovely amplification through the range from the simpler everyday IGT to the single vineyard Brunello. Let the vineyard speak.
“The wines are territorial,” says Irene Dal Canto, Fanti sales manager at a tasting at Color de Vino. “From the simple wines to the Brunello, you can smell it and taste it and you can feel the same hands behind them.”
2022 Poggio Torto, IGT Toscano a blend of Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, vibrant, forward, well-balanced, easy drinking, but with Sangiovese’s characteristic minerality and great acidity. Think Friday night pizza. It’s great value under $25.
2020 Rosso di Montalcino
Lots of fresh fruit, a bit of smokiness, liquorice, evolving. “Even though it was a hot vintage, with some years on the shoulders, the wine shows beautiful elegance,” says Irene. Drink with roast chicken, red-sauced pastas. anything on the grill.
2019 Brunello di Montalcino
A classic Brunello with an attractive lean, sinewy character, red fruits and a lingering finish. Balanced and beautiful with aging potential. Drink with lamb chops, Bolognese.
2019 Brunello di Montalcino Vallochio
“The selection is made from a vineyard that faces southeast, windy, poor soil, perfect for Sangiovese,” says Irene, “it’s made only in great vintages.” Full bodied, with finely integrated soft tannins, concentrated, complex dark fruit and savoury notes. A beautiful wine.