“The nights were blinding cold and casket black and the long reach of the morning had a terrible silence to it.” –Cormac McCarthy, The Road.
by Peter Bailey
I love end of the world stories. When I was younger it was post- apocalyptic novels—A Canticle for Leibowitz and movies like The Omega Man. Lately it’s novels—The Passage by Justin Cronin or Leave the World Behind by Rumaan Alam. I find something reassuring about these stories, seeing people overcoming adversity so far beyond the quotidian worries of my own life. But then again, recently my wife and I sat down to watch Station Eleven, the TV miniseries based on the post-apocalyptic novel by Emily St. John Mandel, and we barely made it through episode two. The scenes of a post-pandemic, snow-bound Toronto hit a bit too close to home, especially as the days grow dark with the approach of winter.
Even for beer, the news locally has not been great of late. Despite herculean efforts to make it through the economic downtown and the pandemic, a number of Alberta breweries have had to throw in the towel—Ribstone Creek, Rural Routes, Outcast, Polar Park and Legend 7. As The Pursuit of Happiness sang back in the day; “I’ve got my own reasons to drink now. I think I’ll call my dad up and invite him.”
The sun and light will return again. And come the holidays, we’ll gather together as family, friends and community. We can revel in the normalcy, domesticity, and tradition and ritual that the holidays bring. The old carol has it right, it’s all about comfort and joy.
Bringing me joy the past few years is a new holiday tradition of participating in DIY beer advent calendars. A group of friends, neighbours, colleagues and fellow beer enthusiasts each choose a beer, buy 24 of that beer, then gather to distribute them to each other so that each person ends up with 24 unique beers. And then you drink them, one a day, counting down the days to Christmas. I think I was involved in three advent calendars last year, which even for a beer nerd was too much! My first DIY beer advent calendar experience was in 2016, organized by master homebrewer Chad Heinz. I asked Chad if my beer pick (Deschutes Jubelale) was too mundane for this rarified group of beer geeks. Chad noted that people try so hard to avoid the obvious beer choices that the only duplicates that happen are with obscure beers! Don’t second guess yourself, choose a beer you love, was Chad’s excellent advice.
This season I think we all need some comfort and joy. The holiday season is also when brewers pull out the stops to create special brews—big beers like barrel-aged Belgian ales, imperial stout, winter warmers and barley wine. They make great gifts for the beer lover in your life. Buy a beer that makes you happy, that brings you joy. And get together those you love and say cheers to the return of the light.
Comfort and joy six pack
Beers that spark joy for me and hopefully for you. Hoppy Holidays and a Beery New Year!
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Medicine Hat Brewing Gentlemen’s Stout, Medicine Hat
God rest you merry, gentlemen! Named after local hero Charles Alexander Magrath, who was known as the Stout Gentleman, this dark and delicious oatmeal stout is creamy and balanced, with a rich burnt coffee and chocolate flavour. It was the 2021 Best in Show and Alberta Beer of the Year.
Blindman Cascadian Dark Ale, Lacombe
For me this is the perfect comfort beer, combining elements of my favourite beer styles into one great beer. Here you get the roasted malty taste and rounded mouth feel of a stout plus the mild bitterness and
piney hoppiness of an IPA—the best of both worlds.
Annex Focal Shift San Diego Style IPA, Calgary
I spent the ‘90s in Ontario, and the holidays meant a flight to Calgary and then frantic drives all over Alberta to see family. Today a trip to Calgary just means access to great beers like this outstanding throwback to the big, bitter west coast IPAs of yore. Made with classic hops Simcoe, Centennial, Amarillo and Chinook, this beer will bring a smile to your lips.
Blind Enthusiasm Extra Special Monk Ale, Edmonton
A charming, reliable beer that makes me happy when it’s on offer. It was the first beer created by Blind Enthusiasm, a hoppier but less bitter take on an English Special Bitter, inspired by head brewer Rob Monk. Dry- hopped with Mosaic and El Dorado hops, with a big hop profile but low bitterness.
Situation Roasti Coffee Milk Stout, Edmonton
The holidays mean visits from family and friends and Situation’s brewpub just off Whyte Ave is a reliable and agreeable place to get together. Situation brews this stout with lactose, or milk sugar, which adds sweetness and creaminess. Roasti coffee is infused into the beer, resulting in a silky stout with big coffee aroma and roasty malt and chocolate flavour.
Bellwoods Jelly King Plum, Toronto
Before Covid, a winter highlight was flying to Toronto for a big conference. I discovered Bar Hop on King Street, a cozy cave serving Ontario craft beer. I tried my first sour, Jelly King, there and it was a revelation—so tart, so fruity, so delightful! Years later, we can get Jelly King in Edmonton and my Edmontonian daughter works at Bellwoods in Toronto. Life is surprising.