by chefs Ariel del Rosario and Roel Canafranca, Filistix
Filipinos love to celebrate. From baptisms to debuts (18th birthday parties) to despedidas (going away parties) we are always looking for a reason to throw a fiesta and bust out the videoke machine. But, in terms of holidays, none is more important than the Christmas holiday season. It is so important, in fact, that the Philippines has the longest Christmas season in the world. Carols and decorations can already be seen as early as September and last all the way until mid-January.
Noche Buena (the Good Night) is celebrated on Christmas Eve. It is the most elaborate feast of the year—a whole family affair with different elements of the meal prepared throughout the entire day. Roel and I grew up in a large family with our grandma at the centre of the cooking. Family and friends are expected to come over after midnight mass and enjoy the various delicacies until late into the night.
The spread can be and often is, intimidating. The sheer array of dishes signifies generosity and hospitality—two well-known characteristics of Filipinos.
It is our pleasure to share some quintessential holiday dishes that you can prepare and share with your close family and friends.
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Lumpia Shanghai
Lumpia (spring rolls) are a staple on any festive spread—a must for any party. They are the ultimate finger food and an easy sell to the kids. I like to make a big batch of these spring rolls, then freeze in Ziploc bags. This way, you always have a quick lunch or snack at the ready. To fry, do not thaw. Carefully add the rolls into hot oil for about 4-5 minutes or until golden brown and delicious. This recipe will make five dozen (60) pieces.
| 1 lb | ground chicken or pork |
| ½ c | green onions, finely chopped |
| 1 can | (8 ounces) water chestnuts, drained and finely chopped |
| 1 med | carrot, peeled and shredded |
| 3 cloves | garlic, peeled and minced |
| 1 T | soy sauce |
| 1 t | salt |
| ½ t | ground black pepper |
| 60 | small spring roll wrappers |
| canola oil |
In a bowl, combine ground chicken or pork, green onions, water chestnuts, carrots, garlic, soy sauce, salt, and pepper until well distributed.
Separate wrappers into individual sheets and lay on a flat working surface. Spoon about 1 heaping tablespoon of meat mixture on the lower end of the wrapper, closest to you.
Fold the bottom of wrapper over filling and continue to roll tightly into a thin log about ¾-inch thick. Wet the remaining edge of the wrapper with a dab of water to completely seal. Repeat with the remaining mixture.
In a pan over medium heat, heat about 2-inch deep of oil. Add lumpia in batches and cook turning on sides as needed, for about 3-4 minutes or until golden brown and crisp and meat is cooked through.
Using a slotted spoon or tongs, remove from the oil and drain on a wire rack set over a baking sheet. Serve immediately with sweet and sour sauce or banana ketchup.
Sopas
Nothing is more comforting than chicken noodle soup and Filipinos have a rich and creamy version called chicken sopas. Though we do make this all year round, it is closely associated with the holidays and Christmas time. This recipe does take a little bit of time so I would make it a day ahead, less the pasta. This is also a great way to repurpose leftover chicken or turkey. Makes about 8 servings.
| 2 lb | chicken thighs, drumsticks or breasts |
| 1 | onion, peeled and quartered |
| 1 t | peppercorns |
| 4 cloves | garlic, peeled and crushed |
| 2 | bay leaves |
| salt and pepper to taste | |
| 10 c | water |
| 1 T | canola oil |
| 4 | hot dogs, sliced diagonally into ½-inch thick |
| 1 | onion, peeled and chopped |
| 2 stalks | celery, cubed |
| 2 lg | carrots, peeled and cubed |
| 2 c | elbow macaroni, uncooked |
| 1 can | (12 ounces) evaporated milk |
| salt and pepper to taste | |
| ½ sm | napa cabbage, chopped |
| 4 | eggs, hardboiled, peeled and halved |
| green onions, chopped |
In a large pot, combine chicken, quartered onions, peppercorns, garlic, bay leaves, 1 tablespoon of salt, and 10 cups water. Bring to a boil, over medium heat, skimming any scum that may float to the top. Once the broth clears, lower heat and cover. Continue to cook for about 20-30 minutes or until the chicken is cooked through and fork tender. With a slotted spoon, remove chicken from the broth. Allow the chicken to cool to the touch, then pull the meat from the bones, shred and set aside. Return the bones to the pot and bring to a boil. Lower heat, cover, and simmer for at least 30 minutes to 1 hour. Using a fine-mesh sieve, strain broth to remove sediment. Reserve about 8 cups.
In another pot over medium heat, heat oil. Add hot dogs and cook, stirring regularly, for about 1-2 minutes or until lightly browned. With a slotted spoon, remove from the pan and drain on paper towels. Keep warm. Add the chopped onions, celery and carrots to the pan. Cook, stirring regularly, for about 3-5 minutes or until softened. Add the macaroni and cook, stirring regularly, for about 1-2 minutes.
Add the reserved broth and bring to a boil. Lower heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, for about 8-10 minutes or until the pasta is tender. Add the reserved evaporated milk, shredded chicken, and the hot dogs. Continue to simmer until heated through. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Add napa cabbage and cook for about 1 minute or until tender-crisp. To serve, ladle soup in individual bowls and garnish with eggs and green onions, if desired. Serve hot.
Pancit Palabok
Noodles are always present on a holiday menu, especially around the New Year. It is auspicious to serve noodles during significant celebrations such as Noche Buena or Media Noche and birthdays, as noodles symbolize prosperity and long life. This dish is made with rice vermicelli and a rich and thick shrimp gravy. What makes this dish unique is that you can customize it to your own liking with a myriad of toppings. Make the gravy and the toppings first, then finish the noodles.
For the Gravy
| Shrimp heads (reserved from peeling the shrimp) | |
| 5 c | water |
| ¼ c | canola oil |
| 2 T | annatto seeds |
| 1/3 c | flour |
| 2 pieces | shrimp bouillon |
| salt and pepper to tastee |
With a knife, coarsely chop reserved shrimp heads. In a pot over medium heat, combine shrimp heads and 5 cups water. Bring to a boil, skimming any foam that rises on top. Lower heat and simmer for about 10 minutes to extract flavor. Using a fine-mesh strainer, strain liquid and discard shrimp solids. Reserve 5 cups of the stock.
In a saucepot over medium heat, heat ¼ cup canola oil. Add 2 tablespoons of annatto seeds and cook, stirring regularly, until oil is infused with deep-orange color. With a slotted spoon, remove seeds and discard. Add flour and cook, stirring constantly, for about 1 minute or until smooth. Slowly add shrimp stock, whisking vigorously to prevent lumps. Bring to a boil and then lower heat to a simmer. Add shrimp bouillon and stir until dissolved. Cook, stirring regularly for about 3-5 minutes or until thickened. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serves 6.
For the Toppings
| ½ lb | shrimp |
| canola oil | |
| ½ lb | pork belly, diced |
| 8 oz | firm tofu |
| ½ c | tinapa (or substitute bonito) flakes |
| 1 head | garlic, peeled and minced |
| 1 c | pork cracklings (chicharon), crushed |
| 4 | eggs, hardboiled, peeled and quartered |
| ¼ c | green onions, chopped |
| calamansi or lemon, cut into wedges |
Peel shrimp, leaving tail intact. Reserve shrimp heads. In a saucepan over medium heat, bring 1 cup water to a boil. Place shrimp in a fine-mesh sieve and dip in the boiling water until the shrimp change color. Remove from the pot and set aside. Reserve liquid.
In a skillet over medium heat, add pork belly and cook, stirring occasionally, it releases oil. Continue to cook until browned and cooked through. Remove from pan and drain on paper towels.
Drain tofu from packing liquid and wrap with paper towels to rid of extra moisture. Cut into ¼-inch cubes. In a wide pan, heat about 1-inch deep of oil. Add tofu and deep-fry until golden brown and crisp. Using a slotted spoon, remove and set aside.
In a pan over medium heat, add 1 tablespoon oil. Add tinapa flakes and cook, stirring regularly, for about 1 to 2 minutes or until lightly browned and heated through. Remove from pan and set aside.
In a small pan over low heat, heat about ¼-cup oil. Add garlic and cook until lightly browned and crisp. With a slotted spoon, remove toasted garlic and drain on paper towels. Reserve 3 tablespoons of the garlic oil.
For the rice noodles
| 1 pkg (8 ounces) | rice noodles |
In a large bowl, soak the rice noodles in water for about 1-2 minutes or just until loosened. Drain well. In a pot over medium heat, bring about 6 cups water to a brisk boil. Add noodles and cook for about 1 minute. Drain well.
Place noodles onto serving plates. Spoon sauce over noodles. Top with the shrimp, chicharon, fried pork, crispy tofu, tinapa flakes, hardboiled eggs, toasted garlic bits, and green onions. Serve with calamansi or lime wedges. Serves 6.
Lechon Kawali
Lechon or roasted suckling pig is the centerpiece of any major fiesta and Noche Buena is no exception. Other than adobo, lechon is probably the most revered delicacy of the Philippines. Anthony Bourdain, on one of his visits to the Philippines, proclaimed it as the ‘best pig, ever.’
Unless you are some sort of rotisserie enthusiast, roasting a suckling pig is a challenge, but preparing Lechon Kawali for your feast is a more accessible endeavour. Kawali means, essentially, a wok in Tagalog but it more commonly refers to the method of deep frying, and in this case, pork belly. What you want to achieve is moist and tender meat with a blistery, super crunchy crackling. Pork belly with the skin or rind on it makes for the best results. And since this is a two-step process, ensure that you cool and dry the pork belly well—at least overnight.
| 4 lbs | whole pork belly |
| 1 head | garlic, pounded |
| 2 T | salt |
| 1 T | peppercorns |
| 2 | bay leaves |
| water | |
| canola oil |
Spiced Vinegar
| ½ c | cane vinegar |
| 1 T | soy sauce |
| 1 | shallot, chopped |
| 2 cloves | garlic, minced |
| 2 | bird’s eye chili peppers, minced |
| salt and freshly cracked pepper to taste. |
Mix spiced vinegar ingredients and reserve.
In a deep pot over medium heat, combine pork belly, garlic, salt, peppercorns, bay leaves, and enough water to cover. Bring to a boil, skimming any foam that floats to the top. Lower heat, cover, and continue to cook for about 1-1½ hours or until meat is fork-tender but not falling apart. Drain pork, discarding liquid. Wipe dry, removing any stray aromatics. Allow to cool to touch and pat dry with paper towels. Score the skin using the tines of a fork. Brush the skin with vinegar.
Season the pork all over with salt and layer the skin with a thin film of salt. Important! Place on a wire rack and refrigerate overnight to completely cool and dry.
Next Day
Remove from refrigerator and scrape off the salt. In a deep, heavy-bottomed pot, heat enough oil (to completely cover the meat) to 375ºF. Carefully place the meat in the hot oil and deep fry, turning as needed, until golden and skin is crisp and puffed. Be prepared for the oil to splatter and pop. Use a splatter shield when necessary.
Remove meat from pot and drain on a wire rack set over a baking sheet. Let rest for about 5 minutes and then cut into serving pieces.
Serve with spiced vinegar or liver sarsa. Serves 6.
Beef Caldereta
Beef Caldereta is a hearty stew that usually involves tomatoes, potatoes, carrots, and bell peppers. Typically, since it is super expensive, beef is saved for special occasions. This dish is definitely taken from the Spanish influence. The name of the dish itself, caldereta, comes from the Spanish word calderawhich means cauldron or heavy bottom pot.
I tend to use tough, leaner cuts of meat, like eye or round or inside round, but sirloin tip or short rib work well here if you prefer a more decadent cut for the slow cooking process.
| 1¼ c | canola oil |
| 2 lg | potatoes, peeled and cut into 2-inch cubes |
| 2 lg | carrots, peeled and cut into 2-inch cubes |
| 1 | onion, peeled and chopped |
| 4 cloves | garlic, peeled and minced |
| 2 lbs | bottom round roast, cut into 2-inch cubes |
| 2 c | tomato sauce |
| 2 T | tomato paste |
| 2 c | water |
| 10 | Thai chili peppers, minced |
| ½ c | green olives, pitted |
| ½ c | liver spread |
| ½ c | cheddar cheese, shredded |
| 1 sm | green bell pepper, seeded, cored and cut into cubes |
| 1 sm | red bell pepper, seeded, cored and cut into cubes |
| salt and pepper to taste |
In a wide pan over medium heat, heat oil. Add potatoes and carrots and cook until lightly browned. Remove from pot and drain on paper towels.
Remove oil from the pan except for about 2 tablespoons. Add beef and sear until medium brown color. Add onions and garlic and sauté until softened. Add tomato sauce, tomato paste, water, and chili peppers. Bring to a boil, skimming any foam that floats to the top. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Lower heat, cover, and cook for about 2 hours or until beef is tender. Add potatoes, carrots, and continue to cook until tender. Add liver spread and cheese, stirring to combine until well-distributed. Continue to cook until the cheese has melted and the sauce has thickened. Add bell peppers and olives cook for another 1-2 minutes until tender yet crisp.
Serve hot with steamed rice. Serves 6.
Buko Salad
Buko salad is the ultimate holiday dessert! This Filipino fruit salad is so simple to make and richly creamy and delicious. Make this a couple of days ahead of time, to get it out of the way, so you don’t have to panic the day of the fiesta. Growing up, I would scan the spread for Buko Salad and save a serving for myself because it was always the first dessert to go. Buko is shredded young coconut that can be found at your Asian grocer in the frozen or canned section.
| 2 c | buko or young coconut, shredded |
| 2 c | Dole fruit cocktail or tropical fruit mix, drained |
| ½ c | Dole pineapple tidbits, drained |
| ¾ c | palm nut (kaong), drained |
| ¾ c | nata de coco, drained |
| 1 c | sweetened condensed milk |
| 1 | c heavy whipping cream (35 per cent) |
In a large bowl, combine young coconut, fruit cocktail, pineapple tidbits, kaong, nata de coco, condensed milk, and whipping cream. Stir gently to distribute. Chill for a few hours or, for best results, freeze until firm.