by Vanessa Chiasson
Prince Edward Island’s sensational new Island Walk introduces visitors to tiny eateries, breweries, and seafood shops, along with plenty of adventure. This 700-kilometre trek circumnavigates the province and has quickly earned a reputation as Canada’s answer to the Camino de Santiago. As I learned firsthand, it’s also a gateway to explore PEI’s less-visited east side.
The sweet little hamlet St. Peters Bay offers gorgeous views and incredible hiking. This is where I started my very own PEI hiking experience, three days of exploring the eastern trails, and it was so pretty I didn’t want to leave.
A tiny foodie paradise awaits beside the trailhead. The shops of St. Peters Landing have everything you need to fuel your trek. The Black & White Café serves breakfast burritos, fresh muffins (including my favourite, strawberry- basil), a long list of espresso drinks and giant Nanaimo bars. Its neighbour, Maritime Marzipan, is stocked with a wide variety of confections and homemade chocolate. Just a few steps away is Rick’s Fish ‘n’ Chips. Their tagline is hilarious but true: “Nine out of ten locals will tell you we have the best fish and chips in PEI. That other guy has terrible taste. Nobody listens to him.” In addition to all the ocean-side classics you’d expect, you’ll also find live music, great pub food (like garlic fingers with donair dipping sauce, a Maritime favourite) and local beer on tap.
Greenwich Beach, part of Prince Edward Island National Park, is just down the road. While it’s a bold move to declare any particular stretch of sand to be the best in the province, I’m going to do just that as nothing compares to Greenwich’s pristine beauty. These soft dunes and expansive ocean views scream vacation. With a little luck, you may have it all to yourself as I did as it’s the least-visited beach within the park.
Expect to be captivated by tiny Elmira, just minutes from the province’s northeast tip. The Elmira Railway Museum captures a time when this sleepy hamlet was once a busy hub. Those hiking north on the Elmira Road will be rewarded for their adventurous spirit when they stumble across the One Tuna Cafe. Feast on classic lobster rolls or poke bowls seasoned with carrot, ginger, sesame and soy then grab thick slabs of tuna and halibut steaks for the cottage grill.
Save room to indulge in the ice cream just down the road at the East Point Lighthouse. Marking PEI’s easternmost point, this pretty red and white lighthouse, also called the Confederation Lighthouse, dates to 1867. But as delightful as the heritage displays are, the real treat here is the incredible ice cream. Cherry On Top Creamery serves up a mix of traditional classics (like brown sugar vanilla) and modern flavours (including those inspired by Friends and Harry Potter) and their homemade waffle cones earn raves.
Eastern PEI’s incredible trails and treats are equally irresistible towards the south shore. In Souris, you’ll find yummy delights like The Lobster Shack (a prime spot for lobster rolls and cook-at- home seafood), 21 Breakwater (serving gourmet burgers, creative sandwiches, and delicious fries), and another branch of Cherry On Top. Nearby is Basin Head Provincial Park. The high silica content in the sand produces a squeaking hum when you walk at the Singing Sands Beach. I stomped around for more than an hour, delighted by the little peeps and trills my flip-flops produced.
Most visits to eastern PEI wrap up in Montague, the gateway to the Nova Scotia ferry and my trip was no exception. Home to a thriving foodie scene, great coffee options and breweries, Montague is fast gaining a reputation as a favourite stop for Island walkers. Bogside Brewing has more than a dozen beers on hand (including several with Rolling Stones-inspired names), plus ciders made from local apples and cranberries. At Copper Bottom, PEI’s first craft brewery, beers and small bites are enjoyed on their patio, which offers pretty views of the Montague River.
Whether you’re crossing over to Nova Scotia or heading back to Charlottetown, a final feast is always a good idea. In the small community of Murray Harbour, you’ll find exceptional seafood right at the wharf, but I tend to go for a different PEI classic at the nearby Oceans Acres campground: Fries with The Works. This delectable mess of French fries, gravy, ground beef and peas is the Island’s answer to poutine and, if you’re anything like me, you’ll come back for it again and again.
A stop in Charlottetown is a chance to indulge in the perfect lobster roll. No trip to Prince Edward Island is complete without one—or several. At Water Prince Corner Shop, the elegantly understated lobster roll combines ultra-fresh meat, mayonnaise, and lettuce on a buttered, grilled bun. Simple but satisfying, their lobster roll won the 2021 PEI Lobster Love contest. Those looking for a estaurant experience will appreciate Lobster On The Wharf, which offers a traditional roll and jazzes up the toasted bun with garlic and tarragon-infused butter.
At Dave’s Lobster, you can personalize your roll with a choice of three sizes, weigh in on chives versus celery and request a choice of cold meat with mayo or hot meat with melted butter (or even do half-and-half!) And if you want a unique take, head to Terry’s Berries food truck. Their Salt Daddy Lobster Melt takes the classic lobster roll filling and puts it on a crusty ciabatta bun and adds chives, duxelles and melted cheese.