Henschke was here, also Mazzolino and a host of things to drink this winter.
by Mary Bailey
Caitlin Fulton (GE RD) and Johann Henschke (Henschke).
Johann Henschke, the 6th generation winemaker at Henschke, in Australia’s Eden Valley, was in town for a trade tasting and dinner at RGE RD. Their history in wine dates back to 1841, when Johann Christian left Silesia due to religious persecution. “Johann arrived a widow, his wife and child lost at sea,” says Johann. “He ventured up to the Barossa, to what’s now called Keyneton, built a barn, started to farm and grew vines. The 2018 vintage celebrates 150 years of winemaking by our family.”
Cut to the present. The Henschke family is known throughout the world as the standard bearer of beautiful, elegant, site-specific wines made from a preponderance of old vines. His mother Prue is a botanist. “My mother introduced Australian grasses to the vineyards. They are adapted to the climate and don’t compete for water with the vines. Instead of roses at the end of every row, my mother planted the native Christmas bush. It attracts all the predator wasps that eat the insects that prey on the vines. We use biodynamic compost, no fertilizers, no synthetic pesticides; we mulch with straw for better soil health. We’ve been doing that for a long time. My family jokes that when she heard the term regenerative agriculture, my mother said, ‘there’s a word for what we’ve been doing?’
“We are farmers, we are scientists and we are lucky phylloxera has never come to south Australia. We have incredibly old vines. Our genetic diversity is based on the selections that were made decades before,” says Johann. “We think the old vines amplify the character from these sites—old vines turn up the expression.”
2021 Henry’s Seven name refers to the original vineyard planted by Henry Evans in Keyneton. Mostly Shiraz with Grenache, Mataro, co-fermented with two per cent Viognier. From youngish vines, first vintage was 2001. Love the herbal green notes, plum, white pepper, well-knit raspberry jam and spice. Super fresh, juicy, alive, even a little rambunctious. Drink with ribs, grilled meats, birria tacos.
2021 Johann’s Garden is mostly Grenache and some Mataro. Johann considers these grapes to be practically indigenous grapes in south Australia, “it’s what the first red wines, the clarets were made from and important varieties for our future.” The colour is almost transparent, super pretty with floral and spice, cherry and a citrus, blood orange note. Delicious, not heavy. Drink slightly chilled with popcorn, light meats, grilled salmon. The name reflects the German heritage—weingarten for vineyard.
Christmas morning may have a new tradition—a splash of Five Farms Irish Cream Liqueur in your coffee. Rich and rewarding, and well-balanced, the distinct whisky bite keeps the flavours interesting and not cloying. Cream from the Tuthill, McCarthy, Coleman and O’Mahony Farms as well as LJG Dairy Farm (all in County Cork) is used to create this decidedly luxurious tipple. Drink on the rocks, in your coffee or hot choc, or mixed with a bit more Irish whisky, $40ish.
New to the market is Terenzuola, from Colli di Luni in northern Tuscany. A lot of respectful technique went into these wines—hand harvested from 24 different plots, micro fermentations with indigenous yeast,longer skin contact, on lees for six months prior to bottling. The 2022 Vigne Basse Vermentino IGT Toscana is just delicious, fragrant with beautiful textures, light and lively, yet penetrating. Vermentino lovers this is your new fave. The rare mutation os Vermentino Nero is native to the Massa-Carrara area in the Tuscan hills. It was close to extinction before being brought back into production by a handful of producers. The 2022Vermentino Nero IGT Toscana is deliciously fruity, juicy, with well-balanced acidity, a fun drink. Drink with birria tacos, hamburgers or pork tenderloin. Find at better wine shops, $31-$36 range.
From left: Stefano Malchiodi, Francesca Seralvo (Mazzolino) Cynthia Vermette (Bonvida Wines)
Francesca Seralvo and Stefano Malchiodi of Mazzolino were in town recently with the new vintages. The winery is in Oltrepò Pavese, a small DOC in north west Lombardy, very close to Piedmont, known for Pinot Nero. Mazzolini specialises in both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Over a fantastic spread at the Butternut Tree, we talked about, well, what else? Wine and food and dogs. But first: the soil.
They brought two small jars of soil to illustrate the unique profile of the Oltrepò Pavese, a chalky clay with calcareous veins. The soil range is so vast (in some areas more chalk; in others more grey silty clay, in varying depths) they have 36 different parcels. The mosaic is so site specific the personalization extends to “the seeds for the cover crop, the pruning, thinking about the wine this vineyard will be doing,” says Fransesca. That extends to seven different cover crops depending on what the soil needs.
The 2021 Mazzolino Chardonnay Camarà IGT Pavia is unoaked and has 20 per cent Chardonnay Musque. Lime leaf, herbal notes and apple, clean and fresh, medium bodied, beautiful texture. Just a terrific everyday wine. Camarà means friend so yes, drink with your friends.
Mazzolino Chardonnay Blanc Cru IGT Pavia. The must stays in a tank overnight, then put into the barrel the next day The result? A deliciously chewy texture with nutty notes, lemon peel, touch savoury, complex. The 20 per cent new oak does not overwhelm. Delicious, have with roast turkey, chicken, mushroom pasta.
Mazzolino Pinot Noir Terrazze IGT Pavia is a delightful drink, fresh and lively. Pretty red fruit, strawberries, pomegranate dominates. Refreshing acidity with a velvety finish. Harmonious. Drink with salmon, light meats.
Mazzolino Noir Oltrepò Pavese DOC is from a single cru on the top of the hill, where the clay is deep and the old vine’s roots reach down to the chalk below. This Pinot Nero has lots to say, from the opening notes of sweet spice and red berry, especially raspberry, to the fine persistent tannins providing structure. Deeply complex, approachable now or cellar. Drink with roast pork dishes, mushrooms. Wines are $40-$60ish.
Get your hands on the Vinum wines from Radford Dale in South Africa. Well-priced, incredible quality, these vintages won’t last long on the shelf. Made with the minimal handling and respectful technique that creates quality wines—picked at the right time, manually sorted, whole berry, neutral oak maturation.
The 2022 Vinum Gamay Noir from Stellenbosch is pure exuberance—fresh, a little crunchy, with medium weight and depth of flavour just delicious. Ripe tannins and juicy fruit, red berry, spicy plum. Drink with roast turkey, hummus platters.
2022 Vinum Grenache. The combo of partially crushed and whole berry carbonic fermentation using wild yeast only, then basket pressed creates a dynamic wine, fresh and lively. Lots of red fruit, pomegranate, red current, held together in the best possible way by a just-firm-enough tannic structure. Drink with charcuterie, mezze, eggplant parm.
Pinot lovers rejoice! The 2022 Vinum Pinot Noir (Western Cape) is a delight. Silky, effortless, with all the Pinot flavours and textures we love. Medium bodied, with dark fruit and clove flavours and a long finish. Drink with roast salmon, creamy mushroom pasta. All wines $30ish.
There is a long history of wine production in Romania—4000 years worth. Transilvania Spirits has brought in several wines made from indigenous grape varieties you have probably never heard of and will want to get to know. Good value. The 2021 Jidvei Classic Feteasca Regala (Royal Maiden) has pretty floral aromas, with citrus and yellow fruits on the palate, refreshing. Have with cabbage rolls and varenyky, roast pork.
The NV Jidvei Sparkling Rose made from Pinot Noir in the traditional method. Classic biscuit and strawberry aromas and flavours, medium-bodied with a dry finish. An excellent choice for before dinner during the holidays or brunch. Drink with smoked salmon or eggs bennie.
The 2021 Navigo Feteasca Neagra (Black Maiden) has plush plummy fruit, with fairly significant tannins, well-balanced acidity. Quite fresh and easy drinking. Have with hamburgers, smoky sausage, beef roasts.
Wines are $25-$50. Find at Wine and Beyond, Safeway, Sobeys, and Violino.
Japanese whisky has become a big deal for whiskey lovers. Here’s a special one—Matsui Mizunara, a single malt, aged in Mizunara oak casks. Sweet vanilla, floral and baking spice, with subtle creamy coconut notes. Garnered best Japanese Single Malt whisky in Jim Murray’s Whisky Bible 2020, $120.
It’s always good to have a few bottles of good Lambrusco around over the holidays. It’s cheerful fizz and fruity flavours complement a charcuterie board like nothing else—also delish with a traditional turkey dinner with all the trimmings. The 2022 Corte Manzini L’Acino Lambrusco Grasparossa DOP Emilia Romagna, is made from hand-harvested old vines, using organic methods. A dry, yet juicy style with a lovely richness. Find at better wine shops for around $30 and by the glass at Uccellino.
Adam Kereliuk and Jayme Donohoe of Plot Winery were in town recently for a tasting at Cavern and dinner at Darling. The wines of this five-year old Okanagan Valley project have just become available in Alberta. I was intrigued after tasting Plot Cabernet, the wine chef Winnie Chen chose to pair with her silver-winning dish at Kitchen Party. Kevin Rossion is the winemaker, with five hectares under vine in the home block at Kaleden, sourcing other fruit from various sites (plots) he likes throughout Oliver and Kelowna.
Adam Kereliuk and Jayme Donohoe, Plot Winery.
The 2021 Haze is a blend of Kerner, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc and Muscat, fragrant, with wonderful texture from the limited skin contact and an attractive tautness on the finish. “This is our intro to orange wine,” says Jamie.
The 2022 Orange is a heady blend of mostly Gewürztraminer with 11 per Muscat Ottonel and Orange Muscat. The Gewürz spends spends seven days on the skins and six months in neutral oak. Full flavoured, lots of heady tropical notes and spice, touch of sweetness, easy drinking vin de soif. It is their most popular wine.
The 2021 Thick is a massive Chardonnay Viognier blend with a luscious mouth feel. “All wines but this one ferment with ambient yeast,” says Jayme, “but Kevin likes a particular yeast strain for the Chardonnay called Montrachet.” Yellow fruits, attractive oak notes, battonage during the 16 months in oak contribute to the rich texture.
The 2021 Neighbour is a red blend—Cab Sauv dominant, Tempranillo and Malbec too. Delicious red fruit notes and structure, well-made wine. A lively red to go with anything on the grill
The 2020 Plot is 100 per cent Cab Sauv, from Oliver. Love the sinewy tannins of this wine, the wild ferment, the plum and red berry notes. Not a big heavy fruit bomb, has elegance, a fun wine. Wines are $35-$50.
Looking for a good Port for your stilton? Look no further. The1998 Barros Colheita tastes of dried fruits, nuts, toffee and baking spices, silky textured, harmonious, followed by a lingering finish. Colheitas are single vintage Tawny ports that have a minimum of seven years in the barrel and are considered excellent value, delivering way above their price tag, $85 bottle