Mosel winemaker Andreas Bender was here for a brief visit in August. “It’s been dry and hot in the Mosel, not typical at all. It hasn’t rained in four months,” says Andreas. Most of Bender’s vines are well established and can handle heat stress. “Eight years ago, we had to replant on some terraces. Those two rows are already yellowing from the lack of water, but the older vines on either side are still in perfect shape. We will have a lower yield and a much riper harvest, don’t know about the acidity yet. If we stay with cool nights and warm days we should be ok.” The 2020 Mosel Gewurztraminer, $26. Loads of lychee, nice acidity, not fat and bone dry. Drink with spicy lentils. The 2021 Dojoar Riesling, $26. Drinking well now, very fresh, not sweet, but not bone dry, ideal for Thanksgiving turkey. The 2020 Mosel Pinot (Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc), $26. Lovely. Barrel fermented and aged on French, German and some American oak, the wine, quite structured, is full-bodied with a mouth- filling creaminess. Have with roast pork or pizza bianca.
The 2019 Conde Valdemar Crianza (Rioja, Spain) $24 is a good intro to the region. A blend of mostly Tempranillo with 10 per cent Graziano, it has fresh berry notes, subtle smoke and balanced acidity. Drink with Spanish ham and croquettes.
Two new vodkas from India: made with basmati rice, vegan, gluten free and from a zero-carbon footprint distillery. The Smoke Lab Classic, $54. Smooth and clean, quite soft on the palate, super subtle, not spiritous, hints of citrus and grain. Smoke Lab Aniseed, $54 the spirit is infused with aniseed—balanced flavours, subtle and fresh tasting, not sweet, not heavy. Can’t wait to taste the cocktails made with it.
2019 Elvio Cogno, Nascetta Anas-cëtta, $30 (Novello, Piemonte, Italy). Elvio Cogno is thought to be the reason Nascetta (a grape native to Novello) still survives, bringing it back from obscurity with a first vintage in 1994. We’re glad he did, it’s a terrific and versatile white—aromas of citrus and beeswax, savoury notes of figs and sage with bright acidity, medium-body and long finish. Versatile, drink with fish, seafood, cheesy pastas.
Villa Guelpa, a small estate in Alto Piemonte, ferments and ages their wines in cement tanks and large Slavonian oak barrels. The result? Effortlessness and transparency. The 2017 Sizzano, $66, has pretty violet and rose notes on the nose along with berries and some spice. The tannins are ripe, yet taut and it’s drinking very well right now. It’s made with 70 per cent Nebbiolo along with vineyard partners Vespolina and Uve Rara. Bright complex flavours and a gorgeous long finish. Drink with braised beef on pappardelle or cheesy vegetable dishes. The 2017 Lessona, $91, on the other hand, is tightly-focused, a bit of a monster (I mean that in the best possible way) and needs aging or several hours decanting. Grippy tannins, tremendous concentration, a lovely bitter cherry note, a beautiful wine. Nebbiolo grown on volcanic soil, a wine for the ages. Save your best dry-aged beef for this one.
Miss Alma Pays D’Oc IGP (France), $24. Solid rosé from the south of France, Cinsault and Grenache blend. Palest pink, light and fresh, crisp and dry, think pomegranate, grapefruit and some fresh peppery flavours. Just as delicious on a sunny autumn day as it is in the summer. Drink with finger foods.
All prices are approximate, find in better wine shops.