A peek into the mind of Andrew Fung, chef/proprietor XIX, and his zest for life.
In the late nineteenth century, French novelist Marcel Proust participated in an exercise which could be thought of as the Facebook of its era—he answered a questionnaire about himself in a friend’s Confession Album.
Proust’s answers have been published, in one form or another, for more than a century. Many have used the questionnaire for their own devices, the most notable being Vanity Fair’s Proust Questionnaire featuring celebrities. The Tomato gives it a culinary twist.
Andrew Fung is a classically-trained chef who combines elements of his Chinese heritage with classic French technique to create robust, yet elegant food based on the seasons.
Andrew studied baking at NAIT, then trained in Vancouver at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts. His apprenticeship was spent with Larry Stewart at the Hardware Grill. He worked at Hardware on and off for six years, then spent two years in Switzerland at the Hotel Engimatt in Zurich. (Cam Dobranski, another Hardware alumni, had done the same.) His time in Switzerland had a big impact. Not only was Andrew one of Switzerland’s top six chefs at the 2003 Swiss Culinary Cup; “I learned you need to enjoy life,” he says.
Andrew moved on to the Blackhawk Golf Course for nine years where he was the executive chef. Six years ago, Andrew and Al Prokop opened the first XIX (Nineteen) in Terwillegar, followed by the St. Albert location in 2015. (That kitchen is helmed by Rino Lam.)
Andrew’s food, always balanced and never over the top, has a depth of flavour and sense of whimsy that is irresistible. We love Andrew’s zest for life, his sense of humour and his sense of community.
Illustration by Gerry Rasmussen
Hometown?
Hong Kong.
Years cooking?
20 years professionally, but I have been cooking since I was 15.
Where would you like to live?
Vancouver.
Your favourite food and drink?
I really like traditional Chinese food, like at Shanghai 456. I love dumplings especially. And full-bodied California reds. I love Migration.
What would you be doing if you weren’t cooking?
Actually, I wanted to be a dentist. I’m good with my hands, good at sculpture.
What do you most appreciate in your friends?
Honest, humble, professionalism.
Your favourite qualities in a dish?
Clean flavours, simplicity. Like our spot prawns dish—just blanched and served with chili salsa and olive oil.
A cook?
Creativity, work ethic.
A wine?
I really like the winemaker who is not focusing on the money, but developing the vineyards. It takes time to build. Flavour. Integrity.
Who would be at your dream dinner table (dead or alive)?
Paul Bocuse and Jackie Chan.
Who would cook?
My mom.
Which words or phrases do you most overuse?
Other than swearing? Come on!
Current culinary obsession/exploration?
Lately, I’m focusing on the people who grow the food, as a friend, not necessarily always about how they do things, but more a reflection on how they live. Getting to know the family, like Nicola at Irvings, or Eric at Peas on Earth; Yvan from Bon Jour Bakery.
Meaningful/crazy cooking experience?
I cooked at the Hotel Engimatt in Zurich. Chef Anton Mosimann always stayed there, he would use our kitchen. I got to work side by side with him.
Best (cooking) thing that ever happened to you?
In 2003 at Bocuse d’Or, I met Paul Bocuse in person. And got a photo.
Mentors?
Larry (Stewart) will always be my mentor in cooking. Al Prokop is my mentor in business.
Favourite casual cheap and cheerful/afterwork food?
We like to go to the Hot Pot in Strathcona. Sometimes there will be 15 of us. Wonderful food and the staff is great.
Philosophy?
Commitment. Ethics as a human. It’s not all about ourselves, it’s about building a community. That’s what I try to pass along to my staff.
What’s next?
We are focusing on building St. Albert into the restaurant we think it can be. We would like to be named the best restaurant in town. This is our goal. I say to the staff… top three. Every year we have this goal.