by Mary Bailey
David Piera, sales director for Spanish wine company CVNE, was in town to talk about CVNE Gran Reservas. Over dinner at Sabor (still thinking about the scallops, the sea bass and those croquettes) David talked about what makes these wines so special. The 140 year-old family company has roots deep in Rioja and vineyards in both Rioja Alavesa and Rioja Alta.
The Cune Gran Reserva 2015, $40 (Rioja Alta) is fleshy, more ready to drink, with more plum and dark fruit flavours. “Maturation of the Tempranillo is different in Rioja Alta,” says David. “Richer and riper in a warmer year.”
Vina Real Gran Reserva 2014, $63 (Rioja Alavesa) has lovely floral and subtle tobacco notes, soft tannins, elegant, taut yet juicy, well-knit, texture-y. Grown on the slopes in a cooler year, the fruit is a bit shyer, youthful. “Love this in the mouth, light and velvety, expressive,” says David. Drink now or put in the basement for a few years.
The Imperial Gran Reserva 2014, $85 (Rioja Alta) is “the flagship wine, from three villages only and only in the best years. Collected by hand in small boxes. Let them rest for 24 hours. Vinified by plot, blend later, age in bottle as we do make only in the best years and no attention is spared by winemaker Maria Larrea,” says David. A big wine, a monster really, richer, darker, less forward with great concentration and velvety texture. Drink now after opening for several hours. “It’s approachable, but it’s still a baby.”
For summer drinking, nothing beats the Cune Rose Cava Brut, $21, 70 per cent Garnacha and 30 per cent Pinot Noir. It’s the palest pink with fine bubbles, tasting of strawberry and red plum, impeccably balanced. CVNE, being a Rioja producer, bought an existing winery in Penedes (“the size of Calgary,” says David). Expect good things.
We are big fans on Sicily’s Feudo Montoni, with their organic practices and delicious wines in lighter weight bottles. Their high altitude (500-700 meters) vineyards on clay and sandy soils in central Sicily all face east. Fields of wheat and olive groves create a barrier around the vineyards, and local winds help keep the vines healthy.
The 2020 Catarratto del Masso has beautiful floral and citrus notes, a little salty, with a pleasing texture. Long length and so, so good. Drink with fish and shellfish dishes, and creamy pastas.
The 2020 Feudo Montoni Rose Di Adele displays the pretty flavours of the Nerello Mascalese grape in spades—roses and violets, fresh strawberry, a little spicy and just the right amount of astringency to keep things fresh. This may become your go-to rosé this summer.
On to the 2018 Feudo Montoni Lagnusa Nero D’Avola. Lagnusa, in Sicilian, means lazy and for decades this area has been called that due to its low production, which we now know, of course, is good. Fermented in cement and aged in both old oak and in bottle. The result? A complex red, with berry fruit, especially cherry, along with some spice and darker fruit notes. A lovely wine—fresh, not overblown, with a savoury leanness on the finish. Drink with rare tuna, grilled meats and charcuterie. All priced around $45. Find these delicious wines on the wine lists at RGE Rd and Uccellino.
2020 Winery of Good Hope Bush Vine Chenin Blanc, $22. Pretty nose, lovely acidity, lots of flavour and body with a lovely persistence on the finish. Refreshing. Nice minimal winemaking—ambient yeast, on lees for four months to create texture and balance. It’s a delight to get a wine of this quality at this price. Drink with grilled chicken, tacos or grain bowls. Find at Color de Vino, Crestwood, Sherbrooke, Devine, Prestige.
“Poland is experiencing a renaissance in Alberta,” says Jim Pettinger of YEG Liquor. “We are expecting a shipment of Sliwowitz, cranberry vodka and potato vodka.” In the meantime, Jim is excited about the Bialy Bocian vodkas in four flavours—quince (pigma) lemon with honey, black currant and cherry. They come in a handy 200 ml size to make trying them easier, $12 each. And then there is Spirytus (1.75 L, $100). It’s a popular high proof Polish grain sprit that’s used to make Nalewka (essentially, fruit macerated in Spirytus). “It’s medicinal!’ says Jim.
Jim is also excited about the Pravda beer collaboration with Alberta brewers. The Pravda Brewery in Ukraine started a crisis relief project asking brewers around the world to make beer—so far, over $1million dollars has been donated to support Ukraine and provide food and shelter in Europe (brewforukraine.beer). This one, with the cheeky label, is the Putin Huylo Dry Hopped Golden Ale by Half Hitch Brewing Company in Cochrane. Find at better beer shops.
All price are approximate. Find at Color de Vino, Crestwood, Devine, Prestige, Sherbrooke, and other better wine shops, not all products in every store.