by Diana Stabel
“Alsoooooo,” murmurs the tuxedo-clad waiter as he presents me with a small, oval silver tray.
His face is mostly expressionless, but I can see a glimmer of pride on his face, like an artist unveiling a new sculpture. On the tray sits my coffee, an Einsp√§nner, served in a short thermal glass resembling a wine tumbler, and topped with a mountain of fluffy whipped cream with sugar and cinnamon sprinkled on top. Next to it sits a glass of water, with a spoon delicately balanced on the rim. I remain motionless, thinking that I don’t want to ruin this creation in front of me; like everything in Vienna, my coffee looks like a work of art. After a few moments of debate, I reach for the glass. There’s no going back now. It’s love at first sip.
So begins my morning at Caf Goldegg. Though my waiter couldn’t have been more attentive, I may never see him again. You see, in Vienna, with this order of coffee, I have now bought myself a seat for the day.
I had a variety of reasons to visit Vienna, but the main one was to drink coffee, or rather to experience coffee. There is, perhaps, no greater way to get inside Viennese culture than by visiting a coffeehouse. For, in Vienna, it’s as much about the grand Old World charm of the coffeehouse than the coffee itself. When you step inside a Viennese coffeehouse, you are immediately transported to the time of the Habsburgs. The first coffeehouse was opened by Johannes Theodat, the Greek, in 1685, and, notwithstanding the Second World War, have been going strong ever since.
This particular morning, I’m visiting Café Goldegg (appropriate since it’s Easter weekend) before a visit to the nearby Belvedere Palace to view Gustav Klimt’s The Kiss. With its elegant, rounded art-nouveau-inspired light fixtures, rounded marble tables, herringbone parquet flooring, opulent olivegreen velvet upholstery, and mirrors with inlaid wood, perhaps the best word used to describe Café Goldegg is grand.
I open the door to be greeted by an enveloping cloud of smoke. First, I must decide where to sit: smoking or non-smoking. The difference between these two sections? A small sign. I think to myself that the effort is appreciated. Then I find myself a seat – somewhere that looks cozy enough to sit for, possibly, the entire day. There aren’t many other customers, but the few present are well-dressed businessmen, all looking terribly important, but, oddly perhaps, not in a rush to leave. There’s no such thing as coffee-to-go here, and not a cell phone or laptop in sight. In fact, they are forbidden. This is not a place to work, but to sit, smoke, and drink in the moment. There is absolutely no pressure to leave.
I learn the delicate balance of trying to get the bill. It takes eye contact and a wave of the arm or a whistle – which, being a Canadian, I find rude – otherwise, I would have had to spend the night. You could easily make a Viennese coffeehouse your home away from home. In fact, writer and poet Peter Altenberg had his mail delivered to Café Central. I don’t believe that Starbucks has yet to offer this service.
I peruse the section of international newspapers attached on elegant wooden sticks that are neatly scattered along one of the pool tables. Evidently, the pool tables are just for show; I’ve never actually seen anyone play them. I decide to practice my German by picking up a copy of Der Standard, one of Austria’s main newspapers.
I return to my seat. Thoughts of visiting the Belvedere Palace fade. Pushing myself through a throng of tourists to get a view of The Kiss can wait. This trip is all about the coffee I tell myself. With a confident arm wave I call over the waiter.
“Herr Ober, noch ein Einsp√§nner, bitte.” (Waiter, another einsp√§nner please.)
Edmonton-based coffee snob Diana Stabel firmly believes she was born on the wrong continent.
If you visit Vienna, you can’t just visit one coffeehouse. Though they all have their own unique charms, here’s a list of my favourites:
Café Goldegg
4th District, Argentinierstrasse 49
Subway stop: SuÃàdtiroler Platz
01-505-9162/www.cafegoldegg.at
Café Sperl
6th District, Gumpendorfer Strasse 11
Subway stop: Museumsquartier
01-586-4158/www.cafesperl.at
This coffeehouse seems to epitomize the classic Viennese café and has appeared in more films than any other. There’s also an uncovered cake display to be found. Approach at your own risk! A good choice before or after a visit to the nearby Sunday Naschmarkt flea market.
Café Central
1st District, Herrengasse 14
Subway stop: Herrengasse
01-533-37-64-26/www.ferstel.at
One of the largest coffeehouses in Vienna, located in Vienna’s oldest district. It’s worth a visit alone to see the Gothic vaulting and beautiful array of cakes. Across the road is the patisserie Café Central Konditerei.
Demel
1st District, Kohlmarkt 14
Subway stop: Herrengasse
01-535-1717-1/www.demel.at
More known for its dessert than coffee, this 200-year old former imperial bakery has a majestic selection of cakes and biscuits, including a spectacular Sachertorte. No such thing as a cup of Joe here – if you order a simple cup of coffee here, your waiter will bring you a silver tray with your coffee and not just a side of whipped cream, but a plate of whipped cream. You had me at whipped cream Demel, you had me at whipped cream.
Café Westend
7th District, Mariahilfer Strasse 128
Subway stop: Westbahnhof
01-523-3183
Conveniently located across from the central train station, Westbahnhof, Café Westend is a smoky yet charming haven to kill time while waiting for a train. I enjoyed the traditional breakfast – one hard-boiled egg, sprinkled with salt as you eat, with a fresh bun and jam and butter accompanied by strong coffee and orange juice.
Kleines Café
1st District, Franziskanerplatz 3
Subway stop: Stephensplatz
This truly tiny café owned by local actor Hanno Poschl is a great spot to people watch. On warm days the seating spills out onto the incredibly charming Franciskaner Platz.
Remember that in Austria, coffee is called Mokka and is similar to espresso but is made with a Viennese roast, a bit more water, and is extracted more slowly, allowing it to oxidize.
Brauner: A Viennese staple. Black Mokka served with milk or cream. Can be a double (Grosser Brauner) or single (Kleiner Brauner).
Schwarzer: Plain, strong, black Mokka. Can be a double (Grosser Schwarzer) or single (Kleiner Schwarzer). Einspänner: Mokka usually served in a glass instead of a cup, with a crown of whipped cream on top and usually sprinkled with sugar.
Melange: Half Mokka and half hot milk, often topped with milk foam or whipped cream. Can be sweetened with sugar or milk. Franziskaner: Light melange with whipped cream and chocolate fl akes.
Kaisermelange: Large Mokka without milk, mixed with egg yolk, honey and cognac or brandy.
Fiaker: The name is German for the horse and carriage you can take around town. A large Mokka with a shot of rum. This is served in a glass or large cup and may be topped with whipped cream.
Kapuziner: Confusing as it’s not a cappuccino. Kleiner Schwarzer with a shot of milk or cream. May be sprinkled with cocoa or cinnamon.
Maria Theresia: Named after the Austrian Empress (1740-1780). Black mokka with orange liqueur, whipped cream and sugar.
Mariloman: Mokka with Cognac.
Mozart: Large Mokka with cherry brandy and whipped cream.
Obermeier: Mokka with cream added by pouring it on the back of a coffee spoon.