by Morris Lemire
Cooking in Alberta follows the seasons; in the warmer months, of which there are three, we usually cook out-of-doors.
But come winter we move indoors. It is deeply satisfying, cave like, to smell supper in the oven, slowly cooking and warming up the house. The following recipe is in this tradition. It uses a unique cut of meat for a long slow braise that once in the oven will cook right through the afternoon and into the hockey game.
The classic braise exists in nearly every meat-eating culture and each one has its own secret that makes it their very own. In this case our secret ingredient is Alberta bison, native to the Prairies, grass fed, without the excessive influence of big pharma. The Latin name for bison is Bison bison. It’s a natural mnemonic. Wood Bison, native to Alberta’s parkland habitat, are called (Bison bison athabascae). These Latin names help to distinguish bison from true buffalo (Syncerus caffer). But if you like the traditional name, buffalo, then call them that. Or you might prefer the Cree name, paskwâwimostos. Regardless what you call it, it will still taste great.
Offal has become a slippery issue, related to geography, culture and economics. As Jennifer McLagan explains in her excellent book, Odd Bits: How to Cook the Rest of the Animal, the root of the word is Dutch, afval, (off fall) referring to those parts of the animal that fell off during the butchering of the carcass, specifically the entrails. Animal cheeks are a muscle firmly attached to the outside of the jawbone, and they don’t fall off. In fact, like every other cut of meat, they must be purposely removed by a skilled butcher. In Canada, with the exception of Quebec where they are a staple in high-end restaurants, cheeks became tertiary cuts mainly because the meat packing industry focuses its time and effort on those parts of the animal most suited to grilling, those that yield multiple cuts (such as T-bones) and command a higher price. That, and the other fact that there are only two of them per animal, has helped make cheeks harder to find.
Bison is growing in popularity in Alberta, but is not regularly carried in all butcher shops, particularly cheeks. You may have to ask your butcher to order them in, but consider doing so as it’s the perfect opportunity to have a conversation with your butcher.
Waste not, want not was always common practice in agriculture. But somewhere along the way that logic and economy got waylaid. In the 1950s many households (i.e. mothers) regularly cooked liver, kidney, tongue, ox-tail, pig’s feet, the whole smorgasbord.
With the rise of industrial food production, and international meat packing plants that supply large supermarket chains and the fast food conglomerates, consumers’ options were restricted.
By the late 1960s, tertiary cuts became harder to find. In the 1970s pushback started with farm to fork and eat local movements. (Thank you Alice Waters). Continuing in the 1980s, two more initiatives signaled discontent—nose to tail and slow food. All four movements were objections to food as a mere commodity. Independent butchers were supportive, seeing these trends as a return to the tradition that they and small farmers never really left behind—the practice of using the whole animal. Together they helped improved consumer choice with a greater range of foods and flavours.
This history offers context for the cheek, a very particular cut of meat. Cheeks are the muscles on either side of the mouth that ruminants use to chew grass. Bison do this for hours on end making the cheek scrumptious. Low and slow will break down the collagen in the cheek. The best way to cook them is very slowly (for about three to four hours) at a low temperature, 300°F to 325°F.
Besides braising, bison cheeks can be cooked in other ways—smoked, slow-cooker or cured. Once cooked, they can be used in tacos, pasta, risotto or sandwiches. In France, they cut the cheek into cubes to make a daube (stew). Yes, cutting the cheek into smaller cubes will reduce the cooking time, but, cooking the cheek whole results in better texture and flavour. You decide if and when time is an issue.
There are other shortcuts. For example, you can skip marinating; after four hours in the oven, or all day in a crockpot, any advantage is lost. Some cooks have also stopped browning; collagen needs time, not high heat. One more tip; use an everyday wine in the recipe. Save that bougie Cab to drink with the finished dish. But again, you decide. And please keep in mind that alcohol boils at a much lower temperature than water, 173°F. By the end of the approximately four hours of cooking, there will be no alcohol left in the pot.
Braised Bison Cheeks
| 2 | bison cheeks (each cheek weighs just under a pound) |
| 3 T | (45ml) cooking oil, your choice |
| 1 lg | onion, chopped |
| 2 | carrots, chopped (or parsnips) |
| 1 c | chopped celery with some leaf |
| 2 cloves | garlic, lightly bruised |
| 1 | bay leaf |
| 1 T | rosemary, finely chopped |
| 2 T | fresh parsley, finely chopped |
| ¼ t | ground cumin |
| 2 T | salt |
| 1 t | black pepper |
| 1 can | (398 ml) tomatoes, drained |
| 1 c | red wine |
| 1 c | beef stock |
| 2 sm | square dark chocolate (about 2 oz, optional) |
| 1 T | miso (optional) |
Rub half the salt and pepper into the meat. If you plan to sear the cheeks, add half the oil to the pot and brown the meat on all sides, about five minutes. Remove and set aside.
In the same pot, sauté the onions, celery and garlic for several minutes, then add the herbs and cumin. Stir well.
When the onions just start to brown, add the wine. Using a wooden spoon, scrape any brown bits off the bottom of the pot and then add the drained tomatoes and stock.
Stir in the chocolate and miso (if using) and place the bison cheeks on top of the vegetables. At least half the meat should be above the liquid. After an hour or so, check to make sure that the meat is in enough liquid, but not completely submerged. Braise for four hours at 300°F, or three and a half hours at 325°F.
Serves three.
Check with your favourite butcher to order bison cheeks. Popowich Meat Co. and Acme Meats carry Alberta bison.
St. Albert’s Meat Direct Inc. stocks their very own farmed bison. For a good overview of bison in general, visit the Canadian Bison Association, canadianbison.ca.-ML