Keeping warm in Kananaskis

Firepits, s’mores and a spa: Kananaskis Lodge is a winter wonderland

by Mary Bailey

The s’mores firepit

Late last fall I spent a few days at the Kananaskis Lodge. I was curious about what to expect. My memories of the Lodge were dim, based on family trips taken long ago. I knew Calgarians loved Kananaskis, but I gravitated to the national parks for skiing and hiking.

This is what I learned.

It’s not that far from Edmonton. It really isn’t, just a few kilometres past the Cochrane turn off. Easy peasy. It’s a pretty drive, too.

The Lodge is gorgeous. Pomeroy Hotels bought the property a few years back and spent millions to update and upgrade.

It has a spa. Yup, a really good Scandinavian-style spa, nestled in the trees, with outdoor pools and the whole shebang.

It has a fun lounge with a genial bartender named Beaudean McQueen. No, I did not make that up.

You can go skating. On a pond!

They have a fire pit with a s’mores station.

They make good pizza.

You can bring your dog. Or spend time chatting with other people’s dogs.

It’s really quiet. You will sleep well.

Bbartender Beaudean McQueen
Bartender Beaudean McQueen with a S’mores Old Fashioned

Eric Beaupre, executive chef
The executive chef of the lodge, Eric Beaupre, is a Québec native with extensive experience with Fairmont in Montréal, Ottawa, Jasper and Whistler. This is a homecoming of sorts as he was the executive sous at the lodge from 2008-2011. He’s a conscious chef, committed to sourcing locally-grown and -raised vegetables and meats and working with suppliers like Canmore’s Valbella. The menus in all the restaurants reflect this with a seasonal approach.

Blacktail Bar
The Blacktail Bar is where you will find Beaudean crafting delicious cocktails. Comfortable, with sink-right-in couches along with leather belly-up-to-the bar stools. Right off the lobby, it’s a terrific meeting place après ski or for chatting with friends over a casual dinner. The menu has sharable snacks, several salads and sandwiches and an amazing burger made with Brant Lake Wagyu. If cocktails aren’t your thing, though I urge you to try a Beaudean libation, there are local brews on tap.

Executive chef Eric Beaupre oversees pizza prep
Executive chef Eric Beaupre oversees pizza prep.

The Forte Restaurant
Forte is where you will find those pizzas cooked in wood burning ovens at the pizza bar. The large, family-friendly menu has an Italian focus along with extensive breakfast offerings. We didn’t get past the pizzas. Sorry.

The Cedar Room
If you wanted a more elegant atmosphere, and a really big steak, have dinner in the lovely Cedar Room, where you will meet Cedar’s sommelier Helene Scott. Originally from Stellenbosch, South Africa, Helene’s experience includes working at wineries in Kelowna. She is everything I look for in a somm—affable, knowledgeable and far from pretentious. Helene made great choices from an Okanagan-strong list.

Back to the cocktails
Beaudean has a certain predilection to lighting things on fire, which is always fun. The Walk Among the Alpines has house-made rosemary lemongrass syrup and egg white, shaken with Banff’s Park Alpine gin with Chartreuse, ginger liqueur, vermouth and fresh lemon juice. The end result, adorned with a fresh cedar branch, lit on fire at the last minute, tasted as if you were drinking the mountains. Beautiful.

Alpine cocktail

There was a cucumber gimlet; a Campfire Manhattan made with Montenegro Amaro, Park Glacier rye and Appleton rum; a mezcal-based cocktail with Scotch and bitters. Another bravura drink involving fire, was the S’mores Old Fashioned, with honey smoked cinnamon syrup, Highland Park scotch and Maker’s Mark.

The Fire Pit
I’ve left the best for last. Outside, close to the pond, is a fire pit, with Adirondack chairs and cosy blankets and a s’mores station. Sit back, enjoy a warm drink, burn some marshmallows, gaze at the stars and revel in the mountain quiet.

Skaters on an actual pond

This article was first published in 2020
Mary Bailey is the editor of The Tomato Food & Drink.