by Mary Bailey
Wandering around Alberta checking out this little town for the best pie or that hamlet for a hidden u-pick patch or visiting the newest cheese makers continues to be one of my favourite pastimes.
Last year when Travel Alberta asked Judy Schultz and me to put together a foodie media tour in southern Alberta, we jumped in the car and buried ourselves in maps and notebooks, ready to explore new ventures and check in on old faves. Here are some of the highlights of the tour.
the cowboy trail
Marv’s Soda Shop
121 Centre Avenue, Black Diamond 403 933-7001
Peanut butter and dill pickle burger anyone? Only if you can wash it down with a true ice cream soda in every flavour imaginable, lime, black cherry, you get the drill. If you’re lucky, Marv will break out his guitar and play a rockabilly version of Hound Dog. This ode to the ‘50s soda shop somehow pulls it off without seeming trite or pastiche. We think the secret may be Marv himself, a true delight. Plus, the French fries are second to none. Worth a stop.
Longview Jerky Shop
148 Morrison Road, Longview, 403 558-3960, email
This shop makes their high-quality jerky in a large oven contraption behind the shop. Look for several flavours of jerky, and outstanding bacon, too.
Twin Butte General Store
Twin Butte, 403 627-4035
The historic local bar, store, post office and nightspot is a gathering place for the surrounding countryside. Look for the leaning cactus and cowboy (an example of southern Alberta’s predeliction for metal cowboy cutout art) and stop in for music, brews, thirst-quenching margaritas and excellent, fully-loaded nachos.
waterton park
403-859-2213
Italian-inspired, accomplished cooking, Bel Lago is impressive all the more so for the fact that it’s open only for the summer season (Waterton is a seasonal park). The beef is from a ranch up the road; somebody’s sister grows the vegetables; the mozzarella di bufala is from Mountainview. Chef Kris Spencer knows when to dazzle and when to get out of the way of stellar ingredients. A word of warning: Do watch out for the singing bus driver, and try to make your exit before he gets to his third number.
Wieners of Waterton
403 339-1079
This hot dog and fries joint is more in keeping with what you might expect from park food but hold on, they do it really well. The dogs are Nathan’s Finest, the all beef kosher dog, and a Pincher Creek-made smokie; the toppings are fresh, inventive and tasty; the sweet potato fries worth a detour. Friendly, efficient service, open late.
Ye Olde Lick and Nibble
403 859-2466
It’s a Waterton institution. How can you not like a place with a name like that? Enjoy every sort of flavour of ice cream, shakes and sundaes.
lethbridge
360 Inspired Cuisine
100 5th Street South, 403-329-3609
Picture this: lemon thymescented leg of fresh roasted Picture Butte rabbit served with asparagus risotto. Well-made food, a handsome room, and efficient friendly service make this contemporary bistro a standout in the sea of chain restaurants that dominate Lethbridge.
Nakagama Japanese Foods & Giftware
322 2 Avenue South, 403 327-5337
Ken Nakagama’s shop is chock full of sushi-making supplies, Japanese tableware and fun Japanese foods. It’s in the area that’s now called Chinatown, a haunting and historic block of tong houses and shops that date back to the turn of the century and the first wave of Japanese and Chinese immigration. Ken Nakagama is one of many who are trying to preserve the area in a meaningful way.
Lighthouse Japanese Restaurant
703 3rd Avenue South, 40 328-4828
This smaller restaurant in a quiet part of downtown is worth searching out. The food is tasty, beautifully prepared and inventively presented. Expect sushi, sashimi, several selections of tempura including yam and potato, udon, katsu.
Broxburn Vegetables & Café
Broxburn Road, 403 327-0909
Famous for red peppers and red pepper cream soup. Take a tour of the gardens, buy some vegetables and herbs and have a homey lunch in the café.
Nikka Yuko Japanese Garden
9th Avenue South and Mayor Magrath Drive, 403 328-3511
The tranquil gardens provide a respite in every season.
okotoks olde towne
The Wine Station
21 North Railway Street, 403-995-0371
A very good shop operated by Frank Kennedy and certified sommelier Karen Patterson. Choose from a superbly curated, well organized selection including spirits and beer in every price range.
42 McRae Street, 403-938-0000
Chef/owner Darren Nixon and sous chef Adrienne Penny’s menu reflects their close collaboration with area ranchers and farmers — juicy Driview Farms lamb burger, toothsome Sudo Farms squash gnocchi or a delicious braised shoulder of Olson’s High Country bison.
Heartland Café
46 McRae Street, 403-3995-4623
The Heartland is an offshoot of the café of the same name in Calgary. Ron and Cecille Swartz remodelled a church to provide atmospheric dining in Okotok’s old town. Try any of the really good pies.
Chinook Meadery
Box 12, Site 14, RR1, 403-995-0830
Beekeepers Cherie and Art Andrews pioneered mead in Alberta and now also make highquality vinegars. Visit the tasting room for liquid honey, honey products and answers to all your bee questions.
Kayben Farms
314064 32 St East, 403 938-2857 (seasonal)
The Kolk Family operates a landscaping business, tree farm and berry u-pick along with a café and shop. Daughters, chef Stephanie and baker Jolene, work in the family’s JoJo’s Café. Stephanie’s garden produces most of the salad greens, herbs and tomatoes used in the café while Jolene uses the home berry patch for her pies. The black currant syrup is deliciously tasty with sparkling wine, or have it on your pancakes.
Celadonna Kitchen Shop
22 North Railway Street, 403 995-6599
This well-equipped spot for tabletop, kitchenware, tools and glassware offers expert service and cooking classes. Find all the notable brands such as Le Crueset.