Venison, moose and partridge, not your standard Sunday roast
In his first cookbook, Tawâw, Edmonton-based chef Shane Chartrand explores his journey, both as a chef and as an indigenous man. This is a stunningly beautiful book. The recipes, arranged by season, range from dead simple to somewhat more complicated, yet well within the abilities of the average home cook. Shane’s approachable style makes them doable.
What is just as interesting is what’s between the recipes—stories, letters and essays by Shane and other thoughtful people—on being indigenous, inspiration, creativity, pow wows, tattoos, cooking. It’s an intensely personal book and it sounds just like Shane. Brava to co-writer Jennifer Cockrall-King for that achievement. I read cookbooks to learn about what’s going on in the head of the chef—the why—as much as for the recipes but, make no mistake, the recipes for Canadian foods like bison, salmon, sablefish, beets and potatoes will draw you into this book time and again. Tawâw, progressive indigenous cuisine by Shane Chartrand with Jennifer Cockrall-King, House of Anansi Press, $35.
French food in Strathcona
Lyon is now open in the old Packrat Louie in Strathcona. The lemon pizza is back, though it’s now called a flatbread. The large menu hews to French bistro—duck liver paté, niçoise salad, Lyonnaise potatoes. Yum. The exec chef is Jan Trittenbach, coming home in a sense; Jan was the chef at Packrat for several years. Check it out! Lyon, 10335 83 Avenue, 780-433-0123, lyonrestaurant.ca.
The Duchess at Home
Giselle Courteau is back with her second cookbook, Duchess at Home, sweet and savoury recipes from my home to yours. Giselle, co-founder of the wildly popular and successful Duchess Bake Shop says she is happiest baking at home for her family. “My French-Albertan heritage, my passion for France, the traditions passed down in my family and the things I grow in my garden all influence what I like to bake at home.” The book is divided by occasion, which is the way many people cook, including breakfast, treasured family recipes (je me souviens) and an entire chapter on Christmas. There are a lot of good things here to help you create your own treasured family recipes. Duchess at Home, Appetite, $35.
Moules et frites at Brasserie Bardot
Brasserie Bardot is now open in the Manor location in the High Street. Executive chef Shariq Naujeer, who has extensive experience with classic French cuisine, together with corporate chef Tim Schorno have developed a French bistro-inspired menu with three fondue, delicious moule et frites (unlimited frites by the way) along with steaks, burgers and salads. There is a fun cocktail list, though the wine and beer lists needs a bit of work. Jason and Jessica Pechet and Adrian Solomon of Stagewest Hospitality own it, as well as Violino next door. The space has a fresh new look with seating for 80 on two levels with private rooms and that lovely patio. Brasserie Bardot, 10925 125 Street, 780-757-8702, brasseriebardot.com.
Dirty Food, yes!
Julie Van Rosendaal has struck back at the clean eating dogma with a cookbook that celebrates all that is crumbly, gooey, sticky and saucy. In Dirty Food, Julie wants us to think twice about the idea that some foods are off limits and somehow purer than others. Instead she wants us to think about, and make, the wide variety of dishes that are about pleasure and celebrate the ability of food to bring us together. Things like dirty rice, sloppy joes, Eton mess. Giddy up. Dirty Food by Julie Van Rosendaal, Dinner with Julie, $20.
The fizzy bubbly gummies are back!
The hit candy for bubbles lovers is back with a new name: fizzy bubbly gummies. Same great taste and texture. In the bag or desk-top sized container, you want these in your stocking this Christmas.
So long Hardware Grill
We lost the Hardware Grill this fall. The 23-year old restaurant introduced Edmontonians to so many firsts—cedar planked salmon, gourmet pyrohy, a fine dining restaurant on the edge of a sketchy neighbourhood. (So urban!) Its lasting impact is in the legions of people whose formative experiences in the restaurant business were at the Hardware Grill. People like Andrew Fung, XIX; Nigel Webber, NAIT culinary instructor and Cam Dobranski, chef/owner of several Calgary restos. Raise a glass to Melinda and Larry Stewart and wish them well. They gave us so much.