Edmonton’s podium
by Mary Bailey
Bronze medalist chef Bri Campbell (Restaurant May), gold medalist chef JP Dublado (Red Deer Resort and Casino) and silver medalist chef Winnie Chen (Fu’s Repair Shop)<.p>
Eight exceptional dishes by chefs working at the top of their game garnered much conversation and exchange of views among the judges. Ultimately, there was only room for three on the podium.
Chef Bri Campbell (Restaurant May) won not only the People’s Choice for the toothsome heritage pork paté en croute—a delicious chunky mix of heritage pork, chicken livers, whisky syrup-soaked apricots, toasted and salted pistachios, parsley, allspice, nutmeg and a touch of garlic—served with a fermented Fresno pepper and haskap gel and tangy root vegetable Branston pickle took bronze. The dish, an ode to the Mangalitsa named Zsa Zsa, and of memories of eating pork pie with her grandmother, was a fine culinary tribute.
Winnie Chen’s (Fu’s Repair Shop) theme was comfort—congee (Japonica rice and a long-simmered chicken and pork broth) with a shio koji-brushed duck, pork and century egg rillette and a silky-textured daikon and kimchi-brined potato pavé. The dish juxtaposed ancient tradition with an absolutely modern interpretation. Clever, surprising, on point. Just as surprising (even daring) was her wine, Plot Winery’s Cabernet Sauvignon, the pairing one of the best of the night. This was Winnie’s first go at Kitchen Party, cooking competitions not really being her thing, at all. Brava!
JP Dublado (Red Deer Resort and Casino) topped the podium with a lovely pairing of sable fish and scallop mousse and Hokkaido scallop kinilaw (ceviche) enlivened with a calamansi and herb vinaigrette. The local corn miso sauce, a tribute to central Alberta farmers, corraled the dish into a deliciously harmonious whole. (He had us at the tiny beet root tartelette holding a bijou half sphere of corn and foie gras mousse.) A rich yet delicate, sophisticated and beautiful dish illustrating his Filipino heritage and training in French technique. JP is no stranger to Kitchen Party. He went to Nationals in 2018. “Compared to my previous dishes, this one is restrained. I think it shows my growth and maturity as a chef.” Roger that. JP moves on to the Canadian Culinary Championships in Ottawa, February 2-3, 2024.
Kitchen Party’s national wine advisor David Lawrason led the tasting for Best in Show. Judges tasted through over a dozen wines poured at various Kitchen Parties across the country. In Edmonton we loved the 2019 River Stone Corner Stone (gold), 2022 Terra Vista Fandango (silver) and tied for bronze—2022 Bella Sparkling Rouge and 2020 Uppercase Petit Verdot.
The Great Canadian Kitchen Party supports youth organizations in sport, music and food—E4C, Spirit North and MusiCounts. Info and tickets: greatkitchenparty.com.
Congratulations chefs!