Dish: Gastronomic happenings in November and December

a hike followed by a beer? i’m in
beer hiking

Love beer? Love hiking? The new guide Beer Hiking Canadian Rockies: the tastiest way to discover the mountain ranges of Alberta and British Columbia is for you. Meant for both the casual walker (the Policeman’s Creek walk ends up at Sheepdog, one of our favourite Canmore brewers) and the most gung-ho elevation seeker, the book travels through craggy terrain, alpine flora and fauna and inland rainforests. Hikes are rated easy to strenuous and take you to not only the best scenery and views, but the best beers too. Impeccably researched and written by Banff native Kendall Hunter, who knows her way around the Kootenays, the central Rockies and the foothills. Indispensable for beer and hiking fans both. Beer Hiking Canadian Rockies ($34.50, Helvetiq).

gotta get some cabbage rolls
ukraines Kitchen

Ukraine’s Kitchen is the first Ukrainian kitchen in Canada run entirely by newcomers who left the war in Ukraine. All the delicious things are here—varenyky (pyrohy) with various fillings, nalisniki, borsch, three kinds of holubtsi (cabbage rolls). Order frozen online or pick up at the store when you come for lunch. They also cater. Chef Brad Smoliak is their advisor and helps out in the kitchen.

Yes, Ukraine’s Kitchen sells delicious food, but its main purpose is to provide training and jobs. Scott Kelly of Butchers & Packers provides the space free of charge. “We have about 10 people on the payroll,” says Jorgia Moore, who started the business with her mother Janice Krissa and another partner. “Our goal is for everyone to have at least 30 hours per week. This starts them on the road to permanent residency.”

Yuliya Shabanova was a physicist in Ukraine. Now she is the manager at Ukraine’s Kitchen. “I thought all the time about what is happening in Ukraine. Now I have a job and I almost don’t think about the horrible things in my motherland. With these people I can just forget sometimes, look to the future. Now, I have more friends, it’s a warm atmosphere in this job.” Did I mention that Yuliya didn’t speak English when she came? Ukraine’s Kitchen, inside Butchers & Packers, 12225 Fort Road, is open Monday-Friday, 9am-5pm and Saturday, 11am-2pm.

tara smith fortifies the l’oca team
loca logo

Tara Smith has signed on to L’oca Quality Market as team lead liquor (head somm) responsible for the wine lists in the restos and the liquor store. What a dream team—Tara, chef Tony Tipping, pastry and bread king James David and exec chef Paul Moran. Opening spring Sherwood Park.

reimagining bar bricco
bricco behind bar

Bar Bricco (10347 Jasper Avenue) has reopened. The space unites the aura of Bricco—moody, mysterious, surprising—with the modernity of Corso 32. The heartbeat of this beloved downtown bar/resto lives on.

“It was a delicate transformation,” says founder-owner Daniel Costa. “Corso 32 was my first restaurant, it’s so close to my heart. I did not want to change the spirit of Bricco but we wanted to spread our wings a little further. The only way to do that was to dive deeper into what Bricco means to us, to keep it personal, with more maturity. Bricco is more upbeat now, a little more fun and much more musically driven,” he says.

By we Daniel means the new ownership group. Chefs Matt Guerin, Stephen Hlushak and Micah Joffe join Daniel and Allen Anderl as partners in Bricco.

The menu? Less meat and cheese, more delightful little dishes. “With chefs Matt and Mike, there is a different expression in the menu, it’s more collaborative,” says Daniel. “We’re cooking out of a full kitchen now, we’re able to put more complex dishes out. We can actually fry things, we have a hood.” And, yes, dear reader, the focaccia is still on the menu.

The look is luxuriously quirky and deeply personal, filled with Daniel’s own photos and vintage materials. Artist Dana Holst created the wonderful wall art (don’t ever call it wallpaper). Designer Peter Turner is responsible for many of the lovely old furniture pieces. In one corner is a vintage cabinet from Paris, where the Amaro lives with two funky little lamps.

The new Bar Bricco is polished, yet still homey, sophisticated yet with even more heart. Edmontonians have responded in droves, packing their 60 seats every night.

Welcome back Bricco.

have your party at the sub
irrational brewing

The Irrational Brewing Company (10643 124 Street) in the impeccably restored 1938 heritage substation, has a new event space called the Sub Room. Book it as a cozy nook for 45 or book the whole taproom for up to 75 people. There is a special on right now with promotional pricing for bookings outside Irrational’s regular hours. Email about the Winter Special to events@irrationalbrewing.ca.