by Mary Bailey
Umbrian producer Enzo Barbi (Decugnano dei Barbi) at lunch at Dalla.
Enzo Barbi from boutique producer Decugnano dei Barbi was in town recently for a series of tasting and dinners. This family winery will have you thinking differently aboubendt wines from Orvieto. The 2020 Villa Barbi Orvieto Classico could become your new fridge door white, soft-textured, with pretty herbal aromas and flavours. The Mare Antico Orvieto Classico Superiore was mind-blowing—savoury, a little salty, with amazing presence, evocative, with a super long finish. We tasted the 2019, but the 2021 is in shops soon. Good to know you can drink now or cellar for a few years. The 2019 Umbria Rosso, a Sangiovese blend, was delicious and the Syrah-dominant 2019 AD 1212 Umbria Rosso IGT is powerful, aromatic, concentrated, yet effortless—a brawny wine with elegance. Interesting note, the original cellars date to 1212 and the wines are aged in the subterranean grottos built by the Etruscans. The vineyards will be certified organic in 2024.
Alvaro Ruiz, Bodegas Alvear (right) with Cody Stephenson, at DOSC
“When we think of sherry we think of Jerez,” says Alvaro Ruiz, Bodegas Alvear, “as that was the port it was shipped from. It’s a wine from Andalucia and Bodegas Alvear is the oldest wine company in Cordoba. The company has only had eight CEOs in its history and in the 1800s three of them were women.” Alvear makes their beautiful fortified wines, vermouth and brandy from Pedro Ximénez grapes (aka PX). Recently the wines have found a new audience, in bartenders, mixologist and lovers of cocktails, including Cody Stephenson, bar manager at DOSC.
“The All Inclusive cocktail is nice and frothy. Vanilla assists the pineapple with its tropical flavours, lime adds acidity. The rest of the flavours are from the extraordinary sherry,” -Cody Stephenson.
| 1.75 oz | cold black tea |
| 1 oz | fresh pineapple juice |
| .25 oz | fresh lime juice |
| 1 oz | house-made vanilla syrup |
| 1 oz | Alvear Medium Dry Sherry |
Shake all the ingredients together and strain into a cocktail glass. Makes 1.
Giorgio Bava of Cocchi (centre) with RGE RD’s Blair Lebsack (left) and Caitlyn Fulton at The Butchery.
“Cocchi is a family business started in 1891 by Guilio Cocchi and bought by my family (Piero Bava) in the ‘70s. First and foremost we are wine producers. Everything is wine based,” says Giorgio Bava from Cocchi Asti 1891. The Americano Aperitivo possesses big, round full-bodied flavours of elderflower, orange, tropical fruit. Drink long with soda, or in a Modern Spritz, with fresh grapefruit juice and Prosecco. The Americano Rosa Aperitivo, from Brachetto and Malvasia grapes, has such a pretty nose—vanilla, ginger, rose petal. Drink with tonic and a sliver of orange peel, in a Rosa Negroni or a Tequila Negroni. The Vermouth di Torino Extra Dry is full-bodied, with a lovely-mouth feel, a hint of salinity and warm citrus flavours. “Vermouth di Torino is produced and packaged in Piedmont with specific ingredients including wormwood. Only Italian wine,” says Giorgio. Storico Vermouth di Torino is the classic 1891 recipe made with 30 botanicals—Christmas spices, marmalade, well-balanced, mouth-filling, effortless, fresh. Enjoy with charcuterie. A beautiful drink. The Dopo Teatro Vermouth Amaro is a complex after dinner drink—delicate wood smoke, warm spices, wild herbs with balsamic flavours.
Andreas Bender (Bender Wein) with Ed Donszelmann (Otto).
Andreas Bender was in town recently for a casual wine dinner at Otto. Andreas makes wine in both the Mosel and the Pfalz regions, searching out vineyards with old vines, which are better able to handle extremes in weather. Riesling and sausage? A given, perhaps, but no less delicious. Look for the outstandingly versatile Paulessen Trocken (crisp and juicy) or the ageable Blattenberg Kabinett Riesling (balanced sweetness with complexity) and the Bender Pinot Noir, which puts paid to the notion that Germany cannot produce excellent red wines. Look for the magnum (we saw them at Color de Vino), well-priced and perfect if you are hosting a crowd at Easter.
Kelsey (L) and Juanita Roos (Color de Vino) with Alberto Paltrinieri.
“People think Lambrusco is simple, banal and sweet,” says Alberto Paltrinieri. Paltrinieri Sorbara makes Lambrusco that are far from simple, decidedly not banal and not that sweet. Lambrusco is a family of grapes—26 different varieties. His family is known for Lambrusco di Sorbara. We taste through the wines with dim sum (perhaps Lambrusco’s ideal food partner, after Prosciutto di Parma that is). The first four are all Lambrusco di Sorbara DOC. The Sant’ Agata Bio is a revelation. Single vineyard, with subtle flavours, balanced, beautiful texture. Leclisse is a selection from 45-year-old vines; lovely and fresh with strawberry and lime notes. Radice is focused, concentrated, with bright flavours of red fruit and citrus flavours, rich and beautifully balanced. The Piria is a 70-30 blend with Lambrusco Salumino, richer, heavier, fantastic with the pork buns. The Solco Lambrusco dell’Emilia IGT is 100 per cent Salumino, with mouth-filling flavours of plum and prune, the sweetest of the group, with balancing acidity. Beautiful wines, worth your attention.