Tuscany Through a Chef’s Eyes

Daniel Costa and Micah Joffe cook at Podere Panico
Marco Grillo Photography Recipes by Daniel Costa

Daniel preps in the kitchen at Podere Panico

Daniel preps in the kitchen at Podere Panico.

“It’s great to be cooking in Italy with one of my chefs. It’s such a one-on-one experience. When we get there, we go to the markets to see what’s in season, what looks great.

“Later we’ll take the group, discuss what we are going to cook, have coffee together, then cook together (or watch and drink wine if they like.) We see the countryside, which is much different from the cities. It’s so beautiful — all this rosemary growing right outside of the kitchen; the flock of sheep walking on the hills.

“I love the idea of exposing people to the Italy I love, so they can see it through my eyes. These recipes bring the experience home.” –Daniel Costa, Corso 32

Micah Joffe at Podere Panico

Micah Joffe at Podere Panico

Crostini de Fegatini
Chicken Liver Crostini
This is is absolutely my favourite crostini of all time, especially during the fall and winter months. Chef Patrizio at Villa Capezzana taught me to add Vin Santo, which adds an element of sweetness that balances perfectly with the salty capers and anchovies. There is so much depth in this recipe and it is very versatile when pairing with wine. Try serving it on grilled polenta an alternative to bread.

200 g cleaned chicken livers, patted dry
1 lg red onion, peeled and sliced
4 T unsalted butter
1 T extra virgin olive oil
1 T capers
3 fillets oil-preserved anchovy
½ c Vin Santo
½ t red wine vinegar
kosher salt
pepper

Heat the 2 tablespoons of butter and ½ tablespoon of the olive oil in a small- medium sized pan over medium heat. Add the onion, a pinch of salt and a few cracks of black pepper. Cook until the onions are soft and translucent. Add the anchovy and capers. Continue to cook until the onions begin to lightly colour, remove from the heat.

In a separate large pan heat the remaining butter and oil over medium-high heat. Once the pan is very hot add the livers and a pinch of salt. Cook on one side for approximately 5 minutes or until golden, turn the livers and cook for a additional 3 minutes. Add the onion mixture to the pan, stir to incorporate. Add the wine and cook for another 5 minutes or until the wine has reduced by half. Add the vinegar, stir to combine. Remove from the heat and allow to cool for 20 minutes.

Place the liver mixture in a food processor, pulse until almost pureed but not smooth, season to taste.

Serve at room temperature on crostini. Serves 4-6.

Ribollita
Vegetable and Bread Soup

Ribollita, which means to reboil, is traditionally made by cooking leftover soup with day-old bread. The bread absorbs all of the delicious flavours of the soup and becomes a thick hearty bread stew. I especially love drizzling high-quality olive oil over this and eating it warm rather than hot.

1½ c dried cannellini beans or white kidney beans, soaked in water overnight
1 lg bunch black kale, washed, stem removed and roughly chopped
1 lg carrot, peeled and medium diced
2 ribs celery, medium diced
1 med red onion, peeled and medium diced
1 med fennel bulb, medium diced
6 cloves garlic, whole but peeled
1 Parmigiano rind
2 handfuls day-old bread ripped into small pieces
3 T double concentrated tomato paste
1⁄4 c extra virgin olive oil
9 leaves fresh sage
kosher salt
black pepper

Place the pre-soaked beans in a medium-sized pot with enough water to completely cover them. Add 4 cloves of garlic and 3 fresh sage leaves, cook for about 1 hour or until tender. Add more water if necessary, stir occasionally.

In a medium sized pot heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the carrot, celery, onion, fennel and remaining sage, season with a pinch of salt and pepper. Cook until lightly golden (about 15 minutes), stir frequently. Add the remaining garlic and continue to cook for an additional 3 minutes. Add the tomato paste and cook for 1 minute, stir frequently. Add the cooked beans, kale, and parmigiano rind. Add enough water to just cover the vegetables. Bring to a boil, then turn down to a simmer.

Allow to cook for 45 minutes, add more water if needed. Add the bread to the soup and allow to cook for 5 minutes, add more water to keep it a thick stew consistency. Allow the soup to rest for 10 minutes, season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve with a generous amount of high-quality extra virgin olive oil.

Serves 4-6.

artichokes

Insalata di Carcio
Artichoke Salad with Lemon Olive Oil and Parmigiano

This salad is unique and very easy to make. It is important that you use the freshest artichokes you can Find to ensure your salad is tender and full of flavour. As a variation I like to serve this salad on top of thinly sliced bresaola (air cured beef). There are both spring and fall artichokes.

12-16 fresh baby artichokes, cleaned to the heart and choke removed
handful arugula
1 lemon
extra virgin olive oil
Parmigiano Reggiano
kosher salt
black pepper

Thinly slice the artichokes and place in a large bowl, add the arugula, lemon juice, a generous drizzle of olive oil, salt and pepper. Toss with your hands until the artichokes and arugula are lightly dressed. Season to taste. Place the salad on a platter. Grate a generous amount of Parmigiano over the salad and serve immediately.

Serves 4 as a antipasti.

Pesto di Cavolo Nero
Black Kale Pesto

This is a variation of a delicious recipe I was taught by Chef Patrizio at Capezzana Vineyard in Carmignano, Tuscany. I especially love this pesto tossed with fresh gnocchi but it works well with any shape of pasta. Note: cavallo nero is also called Tuscan kale; long green-black leaves as opposed to curly bright green leaves, creamier flavour. Tuscans believe the best kale comes after the first frost.

2 bunches black kale (approximately 300 grams), washed, stems removed, leaves roughly chopped
¾ c pine nuts
1 c freshly grated pecorino Romano
½ c freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano
1 c extra virgin olive oil
2 med cloves garlic, peeled and finely grated
juice of 1 lemon

Place the kale, pine nuts, garlic and the olive oil in a food processor. Pulse the mix to your desired consistency. You may have to stop and scrape the sides of the food processor with a spatula to ensure all is pureed consistently. Add the lemon juice and cheese. Pulse until combined. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Toss with your desired cut of pasta and serve immediately.

Serve 4-6.

Pici Impasto
Pici Dough

Pici, which originated in Siena, are long thick hand-rolled noodles that resemble fat spaghetti. I have always loved the chewy texture of pici especially when paired with a thick rich ragu! You can also make many other shapes of pasta with this dough such as orecchiette or cavatelli.

200 g semolina
200 g “00” flour
200 g tepid water

Place both types of flour in a bowl, stir to combine. Place the flour on a work bench and make a well in the center of the flour. Pour the water in the well and begin stirring with your hands slowly incorporating more flour into the water until a dough is formed. Kneed the dough until smooth and elastic, about 8 to 10 minutes. Cover the dough with plastic wrap and allow to rest for 15 minutes at room temperature before using.

To make the pici, cut off ¼-piece of the dough (rewrap the remaining) and roll out to ¼-inch thick. Cut the dough into 1¼-inch thick strips. Roll the strips into thick noodles. Place the noodles onto semolina dusted bake sheets and place in the freezer until ready to use.

Serves 4-6.

Micah and Daniel take a break

Micah and Daniel take a break

Ragu Cinghiale
Wild Boar or Pork Ragu

I love the idea that wild boars wander through the juniper and laurel trees, the wild rosemary and vineyards of Tuscany. The Italians brilliantly used these wild ingredients to make a delicious ragu. I was once told by a chef “if it grows together it goes together”. This recipe is the perfect example of that ideology.

500 g wild boar or pork shoulder, coarsely ground or chopped
3 T extra virgin olive oil
½ medium carrot, finely chopped
½ red onion, finely chopped
1 rib celery, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, left whole but peeled
1 bottle Chianti wine
2 28-oz cans San Marzano tomatoes, crushed by hand
1 bay leaf
10 juniper berries
1 lg rosemary sprig
salt
pepper

Heat the olive oil in a heavy-bottomed, medium pot over medium-high heat. Add the meat to pot and cook until the meat begins to colour. Add the carrot, celery, onion, garlic, bay leaf, juniper berries, rosemary, a pinch of salt and a few cracks of black pepper.

Continue cooking until the vegetables begin to colour and a light fond has developed on the bottom of the pot. Add the red wine, cook until the wine has reduced by half (roughly 5 minutes).

Add the tomatoes and bring to a boil, lower to low-medium heat, continue cooking for 2 hours with the lid ajar or until the meat is tender, add a little water if the ragu becomes too dry. Remove from the heat. Remove the bay leaf, rosemary sprig and garlic cloves. Allow the ragu to rest for a minimum of 30 minutes before using.

Serve 4-6.

Pici con Ragu di Cinghiale
Pici with Wild Boar Ragu

1 batch pici
½ batch wild boar ragu
Parmigiano Reggiano
extra virgin olive oil

Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil. Add the pici and allow to cook for 5-6 minutes or until tender. Meanwhile bring the ragu to a boil in a large wide pot. Using a slotted spoon or spider add the cooked pici to the ragu along with a cup of the pasta cooking water. Continue to cook until the ragu is reduced and coating the pici, stir frequently. Serve immediately with freshly grated Parmigiano and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.

Serves 4-6.

Peposo
Red Wine and Black Pepper Braised Beef

This historic dish comes from the little town of Impruneta, 15 kilometres outside of Florence. Tuscan butchers have told me that the traditional recipe does not sear the meat but I prefer the extra depth of flavour you get from this method.

1 kg beef chuck, cut into large cubes
2 T extra virgin olive oil
8 cloves garlic, left whole but peeled
1 bottle Chianti wine
2 T double-concentrated tomato paste (stirred into ¼ cup of water)
1 T coarsely ground black pepper
1 T whole peppercorns
1 sprig fresh rosemary
1 bay leaf
kosher salt

Preheat the oven to 325°F.

Heat the olive oil in a heavy-based medium pot. Brown the meat in batches over medium-high heat. Once all the meat has been browned, return the meat to the pot. Add the tomato paste, garlic, bay leaf, rosemary, salt, pepper and red wine. Stir to combine. Add a little water to ensure the meat is just covered with liquid (you may not need to add water). Cover with the lid and place in the oven. Cook for 3½ hours, or until the meat is falling apart. Allow the meat to rest in its braising liquid for at least 30 minutes before serving. Serve with sliced Tuscan bread.

Serves 4-6.

Torta di Olio D’Oliva
Olive Oil Cake

1½ c all purpose flour
¾ c semolina
1¾ c sugar
1½ t kosher salt
½ t baking soda
½ t baking powder
1⅓ c extra virgin olive oil
1¼ c whole milk
3 lg eggs
1 T orange zest
1 T lemon zest
¼ c fresh orange juice
¼ c Limoncello

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter and flour a 9-inch spring form pan. Line the bottom of the pan with parchment paper.

In a bowl whisk the dry ingredients. In another bowl whisk the remaining ingredients. Add the dry ingredients to the wet, whisk to combine.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake for 30 minutes, rotate, bake for an additional 30 minutes or until a skewer comes out clean. The cake should be risen and golden. Allow the cake to rest in the pan for 5 minutes, remove the cake from the pan and allow to rest on a wire rack for 30 minutes before serving.

Serve with a drizzle of high quality extra virgin olive oil.

Serves 6-8.

For more information on cooking in Tuscany, visit poderepanico.com