Dish: gastronomic happenings around town

Adriano Zenari: the end of an era

The scene at Zenari’s immortalized by Gerry Rasmussen (that’s Adriano in yellow stripes)

The scene at Zenari’s immortalized by Gerry Rasmussen (that’s Adriano in yellow stripes)

Adriano Zenari died in his sleep August 5. In 1984, Adriano and Glenda Zenari opened their kitchen shop in the brand-new Manulife Tower, creating in one moment a new way to shop, dine and enjoy life in our city. Adriano had left academia to build the revolutionary café and gourmet shop with his wife Glenda. Revolutionary? Edmonton had never seen anything like it. It doubled the number of espresso machines in the city. (Mimmo’s Bar Italia, next to the northside Italian Centre Shop, had the other.) The energetic proprietors and the vibrant shop they created was the hub of everything food related: guest chefs, cookbook signings, high-end kitchen equipment and the best in Italian design. This was where you bought an espresso machine or compared French and Italian extra- virgin olive oils. This was where a generation or two of aspiring cooks learned what crostini was. This was where Edmonton grew up, culinarily speaking.

For 35 years it was the also the place to have a delicious snack or quick lunch and a glass of Prosecco with Adriano. The Thursday night dinners in the bar outside the shop became legendary. Adriano was a character— witty, smart, gregarious, irascible. We will miss him. Zenari’s created the space and the spark. It made the idea of a career in food possible for so many. And, we’re happy to say, his kids have followed. Dalla Tavola Zenari in Rice Howard Way with its relaxed and welcoming vibe is Zenaris 2.0.

Adrian’s youngest daughter Daniella wrote this story about  working with her Dad. Daniela Zenari’s story.

it’s eatable

The delectible, if a bit quirky, booze-inspired popcorn from Eatable.

The delectible, if a bit quirky, booze-inspired popcorn from Eatable

Eatable, the small-batch gourmet popcorn created by Charlene and Vince Li in 2019, is now available here. Bella Casa stocks several flavours of this fun Canadian-made snack fashioned from air-popped, whole-grain Ontario corn infused with wine, spirits and cocktails. We loved the Pop the Salt & Tequila flavour with Añejo tequila-infused caramel and zesty lemon salt. Whisky on the Pops has a rich, Scotch whisky- infused caramel with subtly sweet and smoky notes. Pop the Champagne is with decadent white chocolate, delish. $12, each. Bella Casa, 9646 142 Street, bellacasadcl.com.

kitchen party is back!

Flashback to 2015 when Edmonton top chef Ryan O’Flynn was named Canadian Culinary Champion. He is flanked by silver medallist Antonio Park (Montreal) on the left, and bronze medal winner Kristian Eligh (Vancouver) on the right

Flashback to 2015 when Edmonton top chef Ryan O’Flynn was named Canadian Culinary Champion. He is flanked by silver medallist Antonio Park (Montreal) on the left, and bronze medal winner Kristian Eligh (Vancouver) on the right

After a Pandemic delay the wonderful Great Kitchen Party (formerly Gold Medal Plates) is back at the Edmonton Convention Centre, Thursday, October 27. The event raises money for youth, $17 million in the past 16 years. A new beneficiary this year is SpiritNorth, an organization that improves the health and well-being of Indigenous youth. As well, a local food charity (not yet announced) will be supported via a draw on competition night. Special musical guest is Bill Henderson of Chilliwack.

Edmonton competing chefs are Serge Belair, Edmonton Convention Centre; Levi Biddlecomb, Backstairs Burger; Myles Fedun, Meuwly’s; Holly Holt, She Cooks; Lindsay Porter, The Common; Doreen Prei, Glasshouse Kitchen | Bar; Medi Tabtoud, Vivo; Elisa Zenari, Dalla Tavola Zenari. The winners of each regional competition meet in Ottawa in February for the title of Canadian Culinary Champion. It’s always a fun night. For details, contact edmonton@greatkitchenparty.com.

new beginnings

Frank and Andrea Olson are closing the wonderful Canteen (10522 124 Street, 780-485-6125, canteenyeg.ca). These superb restaurateurs cared for us for 25 years at the Red Ox Inn and another ten at Canteen. We’re happy to report that Canteen is open until September 18 AND the Olson’s are opening a new spot in Crestwood next year. “It’s in the old Blackbird space, in the Crestwood Shopping Centre,” says Frank. “A simple and comfortable modern interior with a decent amount of seats—Land Faculty and Retrofit Design are doing the work.”

The menu? “Breakfast things and baked goods to go, shared plates and smaller dishes and yes, weekend brunch. Dave and Anne Jackson, our good friends who had the Wired Cup, will do the morning coffee. We’ve talked about that space for years and years, the patio is amazing. We’re really happy to be in Crestwood, so many of our customer are there.” Opening spring 2023.